2002 Mazda Protege Logo

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Craig Beck Posted on Oct 29, 2017
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My 2002 protege has some clutch issues. probably slave cylinder but i was hoping it was the return spring on pedal assembly. I started poking around and out pooped a white plastic horseshoe washer

It seems to have something to do with the return spring because now spring is kinda loose. Can the pedal live without it..or how do I get it back in there.Im a big guy and there not much room to work under there or even really see where it goes...help!

  • Craig Beck
    Craig Beck Dec 14, 2018

    It was the clutch slave AND the helper spring. Thanks to all who helped...Craig

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1 Answer

Marvin

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  • Mazda Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 14, 2018
Marvin
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Joined: Jun 20, 2008
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The master should always be replaced with the slave.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 4669 Answers
  • Posted on May 03, 2009

SOURCE: clutch pedal doesnt spring back up

Have you tried bleeding the clutch. Is it losing fluid?

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Anonymous

  • 35 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 27, 2009

SOURCE: MAZDA MX5 CLUTCH PROBLEM

you have to bleed the clutch cause it should be an hydraulic one... if you still have a lot of free play after that it means the clutch is worn too much....

autodr

autodr

  • 260 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 15, 2008

SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder

i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.

Anonymous

  • 104 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 25, 2008

SOURCE: 1996 MX-6 V6 5 Speed: Clutch suddenly goes to the floor but....

It sounds like a fault with the clutch master cylinder or possibly the slave cylinder at the gearbox. With the age of the vehicle and the cost of the parts I'd recommend replacing both. This may not be something you want to tackle yourself, groveling around under the dash removing bolts for the master cylinder is not much fun, and clutch systems can be difficult to bleed up when they get air in them. I'd recommend taking it to a brake specialist (they do clutch work as well) and getting an estimate on costs before going ahead. Get a few estimates from a few garages to ensure that you are getting a good deal.

Hope this helps.

Anonymous

  • 6966 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 17, 2008

SOURCE: clutch/spring

Hi,

To my knowledge, the spring is merely to assist the pedal to return at its default position (clutch engaged), that is pedal up. Normally, it would have an exaggerated j ends. The ends are meant to hook to two (2) slots, one at the pedal itself, the other at the bracket/housing or firewall and not replace the entire clutch assembly. Having said that and as per your post, the clutch works fine, it is a matter of finding a replacement spring of similar physical characteristics/dimensions and hook in place. Hooking in place is relatively easy saved that you have to crouch down and use a long noise pliers. A mechanics troubleshooting lamp would help seeing where the j ends would and should go into.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

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Related Questions:

1helpful
2answers

My clutch pedal stay close to the floor in my Acura CL. Doesnt return fully like it used too. Cant figure it out and I've replaced everythin

Bobbie, If your sure the system is bled properly,did you get the clutch fork back in correct position, was it the correct bearing etc., you may have to adjust the clutch pedal and / or if it has a mechanical return spring, change the spring, it could be weak.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides for clutch pedal adjustment., bleeding,etc.Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

Clutch Kit Installation Acura CL 2 2L 2 3L
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Where is my clutch pedal return spring located at and where do its attach to???? 2006 volvi? s40 2.4l

It shouldn't use a spring to return the pedal, it uses hydraulic pressure to return the pedal to the rest position. If the clutch pedal isn't returning, you could have an issue with the slave or the master cylinder for the clutch.
1helpful
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1994 chevy c 1500 clutch pedal spring

When the pedal refuses to return it is probably that there is no fluid in the resevoir due to the fact that it has all leaked out at the slave cylinder. Refil and bleed the clutch system and check for oil leaking at slave cylinder.It is a good system that pushes the pedal back upand the spring holds it up.
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Pt cruiser clutch diagram

I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.
1helpful
2answers

A friend has a 94 v-6 5-speed camaro thats giving him fits, started as a usual clutch r&r. re-surfaced fly-wheel,complete aftermarket clutch kit along with new master& slave set-up also aftermarket...

I was looking in the service information for G.M.and they do not say anything about using a power bleeder.They just manually bleed the system.Maybe this is what you need to try.I am a G.M. technician and I never remember using a power bleeder when replacing and bleeding a slave cylinder.The bleeding is not the same as bleeding a brake system.I also remember being able to get the complete the complete master cylinder and slave as an assembly and it was already bleed.All you had to do was install it.I`m not sure if it is still available as a complete assembly.But I believe your right in saying there is still air in the system.Hope this helps.Let me know what you find out.Good luck.
0helpful
3answers

Clutch peddal went straight to floor and wont come up again

probably have a leak in the system somewhere fill it up with the proper fluid push pedel slowly while someone inspects the clutch lines lines and slave cylinder, and master cylinder to see where its coming from, there not too many parts in the clutch system. the slave sylinder may be internal which would make it harder to inspect but not inpossible
2helpful
2answers

99 dodge avenger gears will not engage

if it happen all of a sudden then its most likely the clutch slave cylinder.
1helpful
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Abnormal clutch pedal operation

You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.
2helpful
1answer

How to install a clutch?

the mechanic should place or connect the clutch pedal spring to the clutch pedal .connect the push rod to the clutch pedal.then connect the push rod to the clutch master cylinder then refill the clutch master cylinder .by means of pressure tube connect the clutch slave cylinder .then connect the clutch slave cylinder to the push rod .And the push rod connect it to the clutch pork. the clutch pork connect to the spring. then connect the fly wheel , the clutch linning ,the clutch disk ,the release bearing,then the clutch pork to the transmission shaft . then connect the transmission assembly.And you can goon with your date.
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