Hi i have a 94 deville need the wiring diagram for the o2 sensor,vehicle speed sensor and power steering switch bought the car and all wires are cut off dont know which goes where thanks.

No never.

Re: Replacing O2 sensor - Cadillac Forums

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Dec 28, 2009 - 14 posts - ‎3 authors
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Hi Nicholas, Im AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair.

FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR

REMOVE

1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle.
3. Remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket Speed Sensor Cable Routing Brackets from the steering knuckle. Remove the wiring harness sealing grommet retainer and speed sensor routing bracket from the inner fender.
4. Remove speed sensor sealing grommet from the inner fender Wheel Speed Sensor Connection To Vehicle Wiring Harness Then unplug the speed sensor cable from the vehicle wiring harness Wheel Speed Sensor Connection To Vehicle Wiring Harness
5. Remove bolt Speed Sensor Head Attachment To Steering Knuckle attaching the speed sensor head to the steering knuckle. Then remove speed sensor head from steering knuckle. CAUTION: If speed sensor head locating pin has seized to the steering knuckle, do not attempt to remove speed sensor head by grasping with pliers and turning. This will damage the speed sensor head. Use only the following procedure.
   
6. If speed sensor head can not be removed from steering knuckle by hand, the locating pin on the speed sensor head has seized to the steering knuckle do to corrosion. Remove speed sensor head from steering knuckle using the following procedure. Remove disc brake caliper from steering knuckle, and remove brake rotor from hub/bearing assembly. Then insert a pin punch through hole in front steering knuckle Speed Sensor Head Removal From Steering Knuckle and tap speed sensor head locating pin out of steering knuckle.

Hope this helps and please visit my auto-repair-website at:
http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

need to find a service garage that has Mitchell or alldata

are the A/C fuses good? what transmission, auto or stick?
the first check is , does the compressor, cultch, engage
and spin the actual compressor main shaft at full speed.
yes, then loop is bad. (freon loop) (fan good)
No, then below is wrong. (electrical)
94/metro/swift
did you check pressures yet?
if not , then the hi/low limit switch may be open killing the compressor
so it dont self destruct, never bypass this limit switch.
the High low switch if open kills DC power to the A/C main relay. coil.
coil yellow wire must be at 12vdc or the loop has wrong pressures.!
dig,. it refuses to destroy its self. so kills the relay.

all posts, USA.
does the A/C lamp on dash turn on? if not the blower is dead.!
on the 94,(i dont have 93 drawings)
you can get better drawings for 94 at alldata.com, any time.
yellow wire is hot. (clutch dead)


the next point of failure is the car has throttle pedal switch
that is closed all time but wot, wide open throttle cuts AC.
so this switch can fail and cut A/c (USE A VOLTMETER) opens.
the clutch has its own relay, that is controlled by
the A/C amp module (better name A/C logic module)
it cuts A/C for many reasons.
we use a voltmeter at the AMP mod..

inputs that can stop A/C compressor, are:
1: engine overheat sensor bad. 0v , goes to 12v at 235F engine temp.
pin 9.
2: pin11, not 12v means dash lamp out
3: pin 5, transmission cut, or throttle pedal cut out (WOT).
4: pin 4 and 10 , evap core iced up cut, thermister sensor.
5: pin 8, lost 12vdc power.

The TCM cut out , to pin 5 is just for automatic trans, with TCM shifter electronics, it sends cut when the trans detects overload.
(hills? or tranny goes to limphome mode, {sick})
see amp below.
that is it, for electrics. answer my first questions for better answers.

Your problem is being caused by a leaky power steering switch.

The switch develops a leak, which causes power steering fluid to seep into the engine wiring harness. The seepage eventually finds its way into the front O2 sensor, which then shorts out. The engine computer then starts reading a lean condition, and enriches the fuel/air mix going into the engine to compensate. However, since the shorted O2 sensor never responds to the extra fuel, the engine computer keeps shooting more and more excess fuel.

Replacing the O2 sensor by itself will not help matters, as you may have guessed. The seepage will have about a week or two to short out the new O2 sensor, then you will start seeing the same problem again.

The cure is to replace the leaky power steering switch (it's near the power steering pump), spray brake cleaner into the wiring harness until it drips off from near the front O2 sensor, let dry, and replace the front O2 sensor again. All of these actions must be completed, or you will see another recurrence of this exact problem.

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113307

Why do you need a wiring diagram for a O2 Sensor? They are 4 wires and when you replace the sensor, you get a OEM. If you are going to get a Universal, it comes with a wiring diagram (GREY go to WHITE) and Black to Black

The sensor is below the vehicle on the exhaust pipe. Before the catalytic converter

This code is related to the oxygen sensor on the drivers side of the vehicle. Most times the sensor just needs to be replaced. If you want to make sure, it is the sensor and not a wiring problem or another condition causing this you would need to preform the following test.

Monitor the bank 2 oxygen sensor (O2) voltage on the scanner. If it's showing lean (under 0.5 V), force the engine rich using some propane or carburetor spray. The O2 should go to 0.8-0.9 V.

If the O2 does not go rich as it should, check the voltage at the O2 sensor on the Black (BK) wire. Perform the same test adding external fuel. If the O2 shows rich when using a voltmeter, re-check at pin 44 Red/Black (RD/BK) wire at the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

If the voltage at the PCM is low as the scanner shows, but the voltage at the sensor responds and goes rich, locate and repair the open circuit in between the PCM and O2 sensor connector.

If the voltage is stuck lean at the O2 and PCM using a voltmeter, cut the BK wire at the O2 sensor leaving all other wires connected. Re-check the voltage on the BK wire. If it now goes rich when adding fuel, check the RD/BK wire for any continuity to ground and repair the wire as needed.

If the wires test out OK and the O2 sensor does not switch as it should, replace the O2 sensor and retest.

Hope this helps.

Code 1650 is for the power steering switch saying it is outside its normal operating range. Code 1633 is saying the Keep Alive Voltage is too low. Code 1127 is saying the Exhaust Temperature or O2 sensor is not reporting properly.

Well, a common cause may be a low battery. Have the battery load tested to see if it is shorted. You could have some burned wires melted together and crossing circuits. If the O2 sensor wire fused with the Power steering sensor wire then it could have thrown off or eliminated the readings from these parts. It could also account for a battery drain that is causing the stay alive power to drain.

Once you get your battery checked, someone must look at the O2 sensor wires and the Power steering sensor wires. I really do not see a combination like this too often.