Timing belt????
SOURCE: my 1996 cavalier Z24 wont start
pull a wire and ground it via useing a screw driver at the end of the spark plug boot to check for spark / if their is no spark / ignition control module / there is also a crank shaft position sensor / located on the back side of the motor under the coil packs / pain to get to / also the nuetral safty switch / to check the neutral safty switch diconnect the big harnest at the neutral safty switch put a fuse tester to the yellow wire / have someone turn the key / with the tester grounded the light should come on / now we know the ignition switch has power going through it. if there is a no power at the yellow wire / bad ignition switch / does the car have a relay located at the top of the radiator core support (up by the radiator looking down drivers side)if it does not gm will install one for free / if there is / look for the purple wire coming out of the relay and Follow it down to the starter / reconnect the neutral safty swtch / touch the small S (the smallest screw) terminal on the starter soilenoid / have someone turn the key forward check the light / this will detemine if the relay is good / CAREFULL NOT to touch the big starter wire with the little one it will jump the starter / I HAVE THE SAME CAR / Hope this helps
SOURCE: long crank time before starts
Thoroughly clean interior of throttle body especially area where butterfly flap seats and all drillings, use aerosol carb cleaner, check air filter and spark plugs (platinum type only!). Then set idle with a consult unit or similar, engine management must be in service mode to set idle properly.
Also test coolant temp sensor it may be open circuit. If you don't know how to do this ask me.
Forget about earth if starter turns engine over at normal speed.
SOURCE: i have a 2001 nissan sentra that battery tests
Hello, Thanks for looking me up. It is story time. From my 25 years plus experience, even if alternator test fine, or battery test fine it does not mean it is fine. Here is the deal, a lot of times, a battery will test OK, but to have it test right it needs to be put under a load. There are meters to do this, and same with alternator. First thing I would do and have done, Is if you car started, get it to a battery exchange place. I am sure in your area, you have these places all over. There little battery shops that only service or sell batteries and alternators,
Advantage to that is, they can put your car under a load, and test your out put of the battery, and alternator, to make sure they are producing the amps it needs to charge. Now, this is after you take some time and check your alternator belt, to make sure it is tight and not slipping, and follow the wires from there down to the battery. Make sure all your connection are good and clean and tight. Sometimes the positive lead going to the battery from alternator, might have a inline fuse in it, and check it, and replace if needed, Check to make sure the ground wire from your battery is clean and the part that is bolted on the frame of the negative from battery is clean service and tight. One thing I am going to ad here, that i did not see mentioned, is sometimes the connection lead to the starter, cause a draw or back ark of amps via the battery, which also will cause battery to drain. Kind of like playing tug a war.Meaning if the leads going to the starter are bad connection could also cause a draw via the 12 volt system. Utilize places, like fire stone, sears, or even those little battery/alternator quick shops I was telling you about, as they have all that fancy testing equipment to pin point it. AND another fact I will let you know, did you know alternators if getting worn will fluctuate , meaning will work and then not work and work and not work. So, sometimes a guy will check the alternator and test good at the time, but then sometimes it doesn't. I hope this helps Mike
SOURCE: was told the computer was bad in my nissan. got
That may cause the engine not to start. Can you access the CEL codes? If you can there are codes bad ECU.
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