SOURCE: 1994 Honda Accord Ex dashboard removal
You have to remove the console and radio pod. Then remove 2 screws that you can now get to behind the pod. Then pry out the dash light dimmer switch (the one you use to adjust dash light brightness) remove the screw behind it that holds in the gage cluster trim. Then there is another switch on the other side under the cluster (don't remember what it is) and there is another screw behind it. Have fun, LOL!
SOURCE: side mirror glass replacement
If it is just the mirror that is broken & not the mount, locate a wholsale auto glass distributor & they will have the replacement mirror. Typically under $20.00
SOURCE: I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX sedan and the
I have a 99 accord and my speedometer and odometer did not work. The problem was the VSS vehicle speed sensor. The VSS is located on the transmission. Once I replaced it everything worked fine.
SOURCE: when I start the car it idles high the rpms go up and down
Sounds like you have a dirty EGR (Exhaust Gas Recovery) Valve. There are three things that I think of looking at when someone mentoins uneven running at idle 1) Idle speed air control valve (IAC) - this is small port that is electronically controlled that allows air passed the throttle flap at idle to maintain idle speed. You say you have swapped out your throttle body but it might be good to check that the IAC is clean as most Hondas often fall prey to the same age related faults - spray inlet port with carburettor cleaner and use a bit of old wire to hep clear out any gunk after about 20 minutes. IAC faults generally have the symptom of the car being very reluctant to start but will fire up when given lots of gas. However,as soon as any demand is made on the engine such as power steering or simply engaging the brakes to come to a halt the car will often cutout. 2) Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) tells the engine management system whether the throttle is closed or if open by how much. The symptoms are random often wildly erratic engine idle speeds. 3) The EGR valve - this system is designed to introduce a little exhaust gas back into the inlet manifold to keep the engine ignition temperature low enough to avoid the production of nitrous oxides in the exhaust. This valve looks a bit like an alien space ship about 75mm in diameter. On it top face there is a small vacuum line connector, This vacuum line is connected to the inlet manifold but it may pass through a solenoid valve on the way. This solenoid is for the Engine management system to temporarily prevent the vacuum at engine start up from reaching the EGR thus keeping it closed; the engine temperature is not nearly hot enough, when starting, to cause nitrous oxides in the exhaust. The vacuum introduced to the EGR body pulls on a diaphragm which lifts a valve, immediately beneath to open and this allows a regulated amount of exhaust to pass into the inlet manifold. Connected to the underside of the EGR valve is a metal pipe connected to the exhaust manifold. Faulty EGRs are down to either encrusted carbon deposits holding it open or a broken diaphragm keeping it closed. If closed the engine runs hot and pinks and knocks all over the place. The pipe to to the exhaust manifold can get clogged with carbon deposits and this has the same effect as having a closed valve. If open the car idles unevenly behaving as if there is a leak in the manifold, the open valve is actually just that. Locate the EGR near the throttle body, from the above description you will know it when you see it. Remove the vacuum hose, any electrical connections and undo the retaining bolts and lift clear. Clean everything to like new - the carburettor cleaning spray is again useful here . Applying some suction to the hose connection on the EGR you should see the valve opening and closing. Push a bit of flexible braided (a cut off of handbrake cable is ideal) wire, frayed at the end, to sweep the exhaust connection pipe clean of encrusted carbon. Reinstall everything and fingers crossed job done
SOURCE: Have a 1988 accord. Engine idles real high rpm
even with a use carb you should have had it reconditioned before installing it, and also replace the spacer gasket , other wise you are fighting a lost cause
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