I have unbolt my exhaust manifold on 2010 wrangler 2.8 crd. I can not lift out the manifold because op the stuts. Must I remove the turbo?

if you have one it was an option on the 2.5 towards back lower engine by fire wall ----follow exhaust pipe to engine --turbo bolted to exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold the photos show location in link https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/crd-2-5-engine-transmission-removal-overhaul-26604/

If it is the model I am thinking of it is around a 26-hour job...the whole body must be unbolted from the chassis and lifted off. Then the turbo removed and the exhaust manifold removed. Then you can just get to the sensor. This sounds ridiculous I know but that's Range Rover for you.

first unbolt it.

you will need a car lift, and a transmition jack, 1st with car off the ground, take off front tires, drop swaybar, remove a frame from stut tower, unbold big nut on spline, 32 or 36 mm pull out c/v shaft, do both sides, bring car down, unplug cables and wires from transmition, unbolt from motor top half, disconect batery, hot side, raise car back up in air, remove starter, remove inspection plate, unbolt tork converter from flt wheel, 20 0r 18 mm socket and 1 /2 inch drive breaker bar to turn over motor to get to bolts, connect jack to transmition, remove rest of bolts lower half, remove crossmember, wiggle transmition with pry bar, lower jack..... it should take you about 4-6 hours if you never done one, if you have air tools, you can nock off 2 hours easy..

The 2010 Jeep Wrangler 2.8 CRD Unlimited and 50 000 other cars made since 1900. ... Max no. of doors: 5. Passenger space: 4810 litres (1271 gallons) you mean the 2.8 liter engine what kind of problem you haveing hope this helps it should also say inside your door frame or under your hood engine size

The intake manifold is the common culprit for this. It may look like it is flush to the block, but it isnt and is causing a huge vaccum leak. There are two locating dowel pins that the manifold must be flush on before tightning the bolts. The usual problem is that the manifold is resting on top of these pins instead of flush, causing a gap. You have to unbolt the intake and exhaust manifolds, relocate the intake and replace the bolts.

If it's a 4.0 the intake and exhaust both need to be removed. It's a simple unbolt and put back on. make sure you write down and mark any sensor wires and cables, so you can put them back on properly. If you are really unsure of yourself, get a chiltons or haynes manual or have a shop do the work for you. Torque setting on all bolts is 24foot pounds except the first one closest to the front, and the same one closest to the rear which are both 17 lbs.

Hi, I have done this and it is not too bad, but will take you about 4 hours if you are good, and longer if you have not done much mechanics.

The trick is to find a reasonably priced turbo, check ebay. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. Very good, got mine for $

I have been reading up on turbo replacement procedure and I have found this list: First, there are a couple of questions that I have about the list:

2 air openings, pretty easy to figure out
2 exhaust openings, pretty easy to figure out
3 round openings in the center, all banjo bolts?
1 round / two bolt opening in the center.
1 Hose fitting off of the waste-gate
1 Hose fitting off of the air side of the turbo.

STEP 1 Open the expansion tank cap to release the system pressure.
STEP 2 Raise the car & Remove the lower front cover under the car
STEP 3 Drain off the coolant & Remove the turbo brackets
STEP 4 Loosen the return fitting and the pipe from the turbo to the block
STEP 5 Loosen the oil pipe between the filter adapter and the turbo
STEP 6 Lower the car to the floor & Remove the bypass valve & Unplug the connector from the control valve
STEP 7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector & Loosen the hoses to the turbo
STEP 8 Remove the crankcase banjo bolt from the intake manifold and unscrew the bolt from the cam cover
STEP 9 Move the pipe and wiring aside & Remove the engine lifting eye
STEP 10 Remove the mass air flow sensor and air hose
STEP 11 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield by removing the nut and two clips from underneath
STEP 12 Undo the intake manifold clamp at the turbo & remove the intake
STEP 13 Disconnect the hose clip on the hose between the intercooler & turbo & plug it to keep something from falling in it
STEP 14 Loosen the front exhaust system from the turbo & lower the front exhaust system away from the turbo (DO NOT BEND -THE FLEX HOSE)
STEP 15 Remove the oil pipe from the oil filter adapter & grab the copper washers
STEP 16 Loosen the coolant pipe by the turbo & grab the copper washers & loosen the coolant pipe bolt
STEP 17 Remove the coolant return pipe from the cylinder head & pressure sensor bracket. Once again, Grab the copper washers
STEP 18 Undo the coolant return pipe bolt by the turbo
STEP 19 Undo the nuts securing the turbo to the exhaust manifold. (spray the nuts with WD40)
STEP 20 Install in Reverse


Just did this for the first time. Here are a few hints that may help others.

1) PB BLASTER is your friend. Remove the exhaust top front heat shield and hit exhaust nuts with PB Blaster as soon as you start the job, or night before.

2) Make sure that you have 12mm closed end wrench with AND without ratchet. Also a 1/2 size 12mm socket if you can find / make. These will help.

3) You don't have to remove the oil filter, but there one bolt that it would be nice for. I did not and did manage to get the job done.

4) Take you time. More of finding the right tool combination for each bolt.

5) Two banjo bolts on the turbo were really on there. Needed to use a mini-acetylene torch to eat up.

6) Have extracting sockets and bits ready just in case there are issues getting bolts / nuts off.

Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. Classic symptoms, blue smoke at start up and from time to time when driving. It was also making a bit of noise at idle.

jeffo2 ort11


Also, should get new copper washers. I did not have I have some micro leaks from time to time but nothing bad.

Not familar with the jeeps, does the EGR tube run into the mainfold its self?

the easiest way to remove the head is to completely remove the exhaust manifold from the engine and turbo assy. you CAN just unbolt it from the engine , but it takes a good bit of wiggling to get it off if you are leaving thre manifold in the car