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I have a 1993 ford probe and someone cut the wiring harness that goes to the ignition to ppput a toggle switch in i want to go back to a key does anyone know what wire goes where there are six of them
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Sounds like a bad ignition switch. Replace it or do away with the part that feeds 12 volts to the coil
If you can get a wiring diagram for it, find the ignition wire.You could also use a 12 volt test light to find the ignition wire. Cut the ignition wire off the harness under the dash where it goes up the steering column to the ignition switch.Splice onto the end that goes to the coil. The lower end of this harness.
Install a rocker or toggle switch somewhere easily accessible. Preferably a lighted rocker switch. Run a fused 12 volt positive to it, and the ignition wire that goes to the coil. If you use a lighted rocker switch, you'll need a ground wire up to the new switch (so the light will work). When the switch is on, the ignition is on. No more messing around holding the key just right to keep it running.
Or, since the ignition switch you have seems to be defective, take it and have it replaced. There might be a warranty, since a new switch shouldn't work like that. Good luck Garcuda
Eg wipers work while ignition switched to 'accessories' but stop when key turned to 'start'
I had this issue and took me ages and ages of wire tracing and probing. Your fuse box should have the wiper/windows accessories fuses. If you probe them and they aren't showing voltage, check wiring harness, check wiper motor voltage. My ignition barrel was the fault of all this, everything worked when switched to "accessories", but while the engine was running, the accessories turned off. The bottom of the ignition barrel pushed out, as the factory stopper groove bent out. All I did was cold chisel a dent back into the case. BAM fixed my windows/starting/wipers all in one go.
If it works intermittently, you probably have a damaged wire -- my guess would be where the wiring harness goes to the trunk lid. The constant motion of use can damage the wires internally. They still look ok on the outside usually, you'll have to check them electrically (with a meter or test light) The other possibility is damage to the harness that goes to the latch from something moving in the trunk and hitting it. Good luck.
Hello , I am a locksmith in Az. The Ford, Chevy& Dodge igns up until 2004 all had this problem. You will need a new updated "side-bar free" ignition to cure that problem. If you decied to splice wires , yes it will work, but you will need to be extra EXTRA CAUTIOUS IN RE-ATTACHING WIRES AND MAKE SURE THAT WIRES ARE IDENTICAL IN COLORS. (not yelling) just making sure you understand the importance of this procedure.
have you replaced the ignition switch? not the key cylinder but the actual electrical switch, they are prone to this type of failure, pull the covers off the steering column and test the switch.
If you can see the cut wires then simply join the same color coordinating wires with a crimping style wire connector that you can purchase from WalMart or any auto parts store. Make sure and strip the plastic casing around the wires on both ends before using the wire connector. After the connector has been crimped to both wires, wrap electrical tape around the connector to seal off from water.
The horn Button at the steering wheel is simply a switch. It grounds out when pushed causing the circuit to close, routing it though the actual horn under the hood which is sitting there waiting to activate.
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