CV axle shaft nut torque 2004 Chevy Impala? - 2004 Chevrolet Impala

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I am working on my daughter in laws 2004 Mitsubishi ...

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Mitsubishi Repair
Jan 13, 2018 - I was working on trying to replace the driver side rear hub and the threads on the axle came off when we finally got the axle nut off. long ...

1 answer · Top answer: no you cant remove the axle and drive im sure you can roll it out of the garage ...

CV Axle / Shaft Assembly Replacement Service

YourMechanic https://www.yourmechanic.com > ... > Endeavor
Verify the axle shaft needs to be replaced. · Remove wheel and replace the faulty axle. · Torque all fasteners and wheels to factory specifications. · Top off any ... ..

yes actually 95 to 05 1995-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier CV Axle Assembly, Chevrolet Cavalier Drive Axles, API CV Axle Assembly, API Drive Axles SKU: API 1700197008, API 3158-07726494 CV Axle Assembly -- Pass. Side Axle Has Stub Shaft Inserted Into The Splines Of The Inboard Joint; If stub shaft stays on axle upon removal you must transfer to the replacement unit. Driveshaft & Axle Automatic, Automatic 4 Spd 95-05 Chevrolet CV Axle Assembly. Replacement Chevy CV Axle Assembly Parts. 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05

use the new nut supplied with the CV shaft and torque to new nut Spec.

You will need a large socket to fit the nut on the end of the CV axle shaft. You will also need a breaker bar to remove this nut. You will need a torque wrench capable of achieving the correct torque when replacing the nut on the replacement shaft. You will need a relatively heavy (3-pound) hammer and a pry bar to remove the axle shaft from the transmission housing. You should break the axle nut loose prior to raising the vehicle off the ground as it is very tight and may not come loose easily once raised. If you use an impact wrench then the need to do this before raising the vehicle is not as great. You need to raise the vehicle on jack stand(s). Remove the wheel from the side you are replacing. Remove the brake caliper and rotor assembly as well. Remove the axle nut. The axle must be pulled free of the hub spline by pushing it out backwards. This is not usually possible without either (1) separating the lower ball joint from the lower control arm, or (2) unbolting the lower control arm assembly from the subframe and pulling it outward and to the side.
Be careful when pushing and pulling on the axle shaft. The outer CV joint is fixed, but the inner joint can be pulled out too far and become separated. This will make removal much more difficult. Once you have freed the outer CV joint from the hub, then you need to use the prybar and hammer to tap the inner joint out of the transaxle. It snaps in place and will take a few attempts to achieve. Be careful if trying to pry on the transaxle housing as it is cast metal and can break easily. Once you have the inner joint free you can remove the shaft. There may be some transmission fluid leak from the seal when you remove the shaft. Insert the new shaft into the transaxle. Push it in to snap it into place. You can pull back about an inch or two to help get the force necessary to pop it in, but again be careful not to overextend the inner joint. Once the inner joint is in place, slide the outer joint back through the hub splines. Reconnect the ball joint/lower control arm. Replace the axle nut (use the one supplied with the new shaft. Torque to proper specifications. Replace the rotor/caliper/wheel.

If you have a bad CV joint, it is usually easier and cheaper to replace the axle half-shaft.

loosen lug nuts
Jack up car
insert jack stand
remove wheel.
pry off wheel hub cover or tap it out by rotating brake disk and tapping outward with a punch (or even a screw driver).
This will expose a large axle nut which will usually have a crimp lock.
Look in the center for a part of the nut bent into a groove in the axle.
tap it out so the nut can turn with a punch and hammer.
The nut is on with a lot of torque. It can be removed by having a friend step on the brakes while you loosen it with a breaker bar and socket, or you can use an air-wrench to spin it off.
loosen thew nut until it extends past the end of the axle threads and tap it with a mallot. (this will result in the axle coming loose and moving freely back and forth in the hub)
remove the nut and the washer(s) taking notice of how they go back on.
Now you have to determine if the axle can be compressed enough to come out of the hub without disassembling any of the suspension. Some can - most can't.
Likely next step is to remove the safety cotter pin, and nut from the outer tie-rod end, then loosen it with a "pickle fork" and hammer or air-tool. (this will let the strut assembly swing out far enough to free the axle. On some cars the lower ball joint may have to be removed (this is usually a plate with three bolt/nuts. to get the axle shaft out of the hub.
At this point you have an axle half-shaft loose from the hub, but still firmly attached to the transmission near the inner CV joint.

Look carefully at the inner CV joint. Is there any sign of transmission oil/fluid around it? If so, plan on replacing the inner CV joint seal before you re-assemble. They are cheap, so it does not hurt to replace it anyway.

You have to get something behind the inner CV joint housing and pop the half shaft out of the transmission. There is a spring-clip around the inner half-shaft splines. When you pop the shaft out, it compresses the spring clip and lets it pop out of the retaining groove it rides in.
I usually try to get something like a piece of steel plumbing pipe against the back of the inner CV housing and them pop it good with a heavy hammer. One or two pops usually gets it to slide out, and then be prepared for a mess as transmission oil runs out the axle hole.

Now you have removed the axle half-shaft. You can go further and remove/replace the CV joints on the axle, but it is seldom worth it. A new half-shaft with both CV joints and new boots already installed is usually about the same price as one CV joint and new boots, and they are a real pain and will take a lot of time and patience to replace.

Reverse for installation.
Pop new shaft into transmission (you can usually do this by hand with a good push.
Re-insert into hub and leave loose.
re-attach any suspension parts, torque to proper setting, and re-install new cotter pins (never reuse the old ones).

Replace the washers over the axle
Install the axle nut.
**** Torque to specification - DO NOT GUESS. ***
Use punch to lock nut into axle groove (new axle should come with new axle nut)
Tap hub cover back on (a very thin coat of grease helps)
re-install wheel and loosely tighten lug nuts.
jack up car - remove jack stand and lower car.
Torque lug nuts (this is also important - improper lug nut torque can lead to a warped disk brake hub or worse)
Install hub cap if so equipped.

Done.


The axle half-shaft is held on one side by a large axle-nut and on the transmission side by a spring-clip that rides in a groove (it just pops in and out).

The whole job can be done in an hour or so if you have the proper tools, but do not attempt this if you don't have a big socket for the axle nut and a breaker bar. A torqu wrench capable of reading up to 200 ft lbs and one that can accurately set the torque on any suspension pieces you need to loosen.

If you don't need to loosen or remove any suspension you need not worry about alignment afterwards, and if you only need to loosen a tie rod end, you should still be fine as long as you don't change any of the "length adjusting" threads.

If you do need to separate a tie-rod end you will need the tool for that (pickle fork and heavy hammer).

If you have to remove or loosen any of the things that keep your wheels aligned you will need an alignment after you finish, but the job can usually be done while avoiding this.

Autozone will loan you most of the tools you need if you don't have them.

If you have never done this, I highly recommend you search You Tube for some videos and watch them first. This really is not hard.

Here are the front axle nut torque specs for the 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD:
• Axle Shaft nut - 177 ft-lb
• hub and bearing assembly to steering knuckle bolts - 133 ft-lb

replace front axle shaft you need to loosen axle nut with vechicle weight on the wheel just unloosen axle nut dont take axle nut all the way off just loosen it enough first remove hub cap to loosen axle nut.once loosen then raise vechicle remove wheel tire.you need to remove loosen brake caliper bolts just move brake caliper out of way support caliper piece of wire dont have to disconnect brake caliper hose just move it aside let it hang with a piece clothe hanger or piece or cord dont hang caliper by brake hose will damage brake hose.you need to remove brake caliper mounting bracket.go ahead remove axle nut.you have to remove steering knuckle bolts pull steering knuckle out of the strut bracket.you can remove front axle shaft by using large pry bar to the inner cv pry inner cv joint use a little leverage front axle should pop out.when you install new axle shaft push it in place until you hear it snap in place try pull by hand make sure half shaft in place. when done axle nut torque is 191 ft lbs.strut bracket bolts torque at 133 ft lbs.if this is your first time working on vechicle let a garage do the job.but buy the new shaft then take it with you for garage to replace be cheaper take own parts help cut down costs for part just pay for labor.

Ok CV axles are ones used only on front wheel drive vehicles so if this is the case here you go....before you jack up the car, try to loosen up the spindle/hub nut using a good size strong breaker bar and pipe assembly once loose jack up take opff tire,remove the disc caliper assembly,reve the axle bolt/washer, remove the rotor and bearing hub and assembly, place a pan under the outboard side of the transmission (where the axle slips in to catch any trans fliud that may leak out) pry the axle shaft out....remember to always support any vehicle with jack stands to insure your safety....wear goolgles rust and grease **** when it hits the eye balls and try to wear mechanics gloves to help prevent any nasty cuts and or grease paws...replace using the same proceedure....when you have everything in....tighten up the axle shaft bolt once the car is lowere with the wheel on the ground as this will allow you to fully torque that large nut to its full capacity, hope this helps.....John.

118 ft lbs

There is a large lock nut that holds the axle into the splined end inside the transaxle. This nut is usually torqued into place very well though, but if it is loose or was not torqued properly then this could cause free-play in the axle. You can look up the torque specs online or use a chilton or Haynes manual to get the specification.