2004 crosfire, how can i get rite front calipar off, and remove inner wheel bearing?

YOU HAVE 2 BEARINGS INNER AND OUTER BEARING IN HUB.YOU NEED TO REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER THEN REMOVE GREASE CAP.STRAIGHTEN THE BEND COTTER PIN THEN REMOVE COTTER PIN.THEN LOOSEN REMOVE ADJUSTING NUT AND WASHER FROM END OF THE SPINDLE.PULL THE HUB OUT SLIGHTLY THEN PUSH IT BACK INTO ORIGINAL POSITION. THIS WILL FORCE THE OUTER WHEEL BEARING OFF THE SPINDLE ENOUGH SO YOU CAN REMOVE IT.PULL THE HUB OFF THE SPINDLE.USE A SCREW DRIVER TO PRY THE GREASE SEAL OUT OF THE REAR OF THE. HUB AS THIS IS DONE NOTE HOW THE SEAL IS INSTALLED.THEN REMOVE THE INNER WHEEL BEARING FROM THE HUB.

Brake Rotor (Disc) - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts.
   
2. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support on jackstands.
   
3. Remove the wheel and tire.
   
4. Remove the brake caliper assembly as described earlier in this section, but do not disconnect the brake hose.
   
5. Suspend the caliper assembly by a piece of wire. Do not allow it to hang by the brake hose.
   
6. Follow the procedure given under wheel bearing removal in Suspension and Steering for models with manual and automatic locking hubs (lines down).

New rotor assemblies come protected with an anti-rust coating which should be removed with denatured alcohol or degreaser. New hubs must be packed with EP wheel bearing grease.

1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Front Wheel Bearings - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figure 1 )

Fig. 1: Inspect the bearings for abnormal wear and/or damage

With Manual Locking Hubs
(see Figures 2 through 17)

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
   
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   
3. Remove the retainer washers from the lug nut studs and remove the manual locking hub assembly from the spindle.
   
4. Remove the snapring and spacer from the end of the spindle shaft.
   
5. Remove the outer wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
   
6. Remove the locknut washer from the spindle.
   
7. Remove the inner wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
   
8. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Remove the hub and rotor from the spindle.
   
9. Using seal removal tool 1175-AC or equivalent remove and discard the grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub.
   
10. Clean the inner and outer bearing assemblies in solvent. Inspect the bearings and the cones for wear and damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
    
11. If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them with front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C and tool T77F-1102-A or equivalent.
    
12. Wipe the old grease from the spindle. Check the spindle for excessive wear or damage. Replace defective parts, as required.

Fig. 2: Before beginning the wheel bearing removal, and after the outer hub is removed, wipe off any excess grease

Fig. 3: After the grease is wiped off, remove the axle shaft snapring ...

Fig. 4: ... then pull the splined spacer from the axle shaft end

Fig. 5: Use a 4 pronged socket to loosen the outer wheel bearing locknut ...

Fig. 6: ... then remove the outer locknut

Fig. 7: Remove the lockwasher from behind the outer locknut ...

Fig. 8: ... then loosen and remove the inner locknut-note the lockwasher engagement pin (arrow)

Fig. 9: While pushing inwards on the rotor/hub assembly, remove the outer wheel bearing ...

Fig. 10: ... then pull the rotor/hub assembly from the spindle, taking care not to scratch the bearing cups in the hub

Fig. 11: Pry out the grease seal on the back of the rotor/hub assembly ...

Fig. 12: ... then remove the inner wheel bearing. Thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts for wear or damage

continue...

Disconnect the vehicle battery ground lead.
Support the vehicle at the front and remove the appropriate wheel.
Remove brake caliper and disc assemblies see SRO 70 10
Note- Do not allow the caliper to hang by either harness or
flexible hose.

Pry off the hub grease cap
Remove and discard cotter pin
pull off castellated nut retainer
Remove the hub nut and bearing washer.
Carefully remove the hub assembly from the stub axle.

Pry the original seal from the spigot and discard.
remove the bearings and using a drift punch knock out the bearing cups.
Remove all traces of grease and dirt from the stub axle and back plate.
Note: the backing plate may be used to pull the inner bearing and seal if they stay on the stub shaft.
Press in the new bearing cups using a socket or other tool of the correct size to prevent damaging the new bearing cup or hub.
Note: Do not use bearing to press in the cup.
Pack the annular gaps of the oil seal lips with grease.
Wash the hub assembly thoroughly.
Ensure that the hub inner seal diameter is free of debris or damage and is lightly lubricated prior to assembly.
Only replace complete bearings, never cup or race in isolation.
Pack each race with approximately 4 ml of grease and position the inner race onto the stub axle.
Apply a smear of grease to hub inner surfaces and bearing cups. Assemble the hub to the stub axle followed by outer race, bearing washer and hub nut.
It is not necessary to fill the hub cavity with grease, merely protect from corrosion with a coat of lubricant. Seat the bearings by slightly tightening the hub nut whilst rotating the hub. Do not apply load without rotation.

Adjust End float. Set a Dial Test Indicator and adjust the hub nut to achieve the correct end float.
.001-.003"
As the adjustment is made, continually load the hub axially in both directions.
Without disturbing the end float setting, fit the castellated
nut retainer so that it aligns with both hub nut and stub axle drilling.
Secure nut retainer using a new cotter pin.

Reassemble brake rotor and caliper. Bolts MUST be tightened to specification
operation of the braking system verified.
Reassemble wheel

Probably not a video, but brakes are to be performed in Axle sets. If the LF is worn more than the RF, something is wrong, like frozen caliper.

The 84 RX7 has a hub/ rotor assembly. Pull the front wheels, take off the calipers, remove the grease cap from the rotor, take out the cotter pin, take off the nut, pull the hub/rotor off. It may be difficult but pry the old bearings out, there is an outer and an inner, the inner has a seal on it. Clean out the space where there old bearings were, and press in the new ones, this will also be difficult. Make sure to use a method that puts even pressure on the bearings; I like to use a screwdriver that will fit through the hole in the bearing but the handel will catch, then I tap on the back of the screwdriver until the bearing seats in place. Be sure to pack the bearings with plenty of grease, you will make a mess. Then installation is just reverse of removal. When you put the hub nut back on, tighten it down, then back it off just a tiny bit so that it lets the bearing spin but doesn't have any play. As always, double check all of your lug nuts when your put your wheels back on. Hope this helps!

2 wheel drive?
1 jack, 1 jackstand, 1 lug wrench,1 pair of channel lock pliers,1 pair side cut pliers1 3/8 or 10mm allen wrench, 1 six to 8 inch c clamp, 1 small pry bar grease,rags,.
place jack under truck same as changing tire,jack up and put jack stand under frame,remove tire,then using allen wrench,s remove allen bolts on inside of brake caliper,pry caliper off gently so as to not damage the brake pad,use a piece of wire and hang caliper so it does not hang on brake hose,then pull or pry the center hub cap off this will expose the bearingretaing nut there should be a cotter key in front of the nut,use the side cut pliers and straighten the cotter key then pull it out,remove the retaining nut and and crown washer,then pull the hub and bearing assembly off.
installation is in reverse,put hub and greased bearings on spindel tighten center nut while turning hub and tighten the nut very tight,the hub will be very hard to turn then start loosening the spindle nut and spinning the hub,holding the top of the hub push in and out if you feel it rocking on the bearings it is to loose tighten the slowly until there is no play put a cotter back in, put the small hubcap back on then using the c clamp and a piece wood put the c clamp over the back of the brake caliper and slide the piece over the piston cup on the inside to protect the piston,tighten the clamp until the piston is colapsed all the way, put brake pads back on put caliper on,put a small amount of grease on the smooth part of the allen bolts not on the threads,tighten the bolts.
put the tire assembly back on,remove jack stand and jack,
this is the important part,
1 be sure all bolts and fasteners are on and tight.
2 when you get in the truck and start it leave it in park,gently push the brake pedal down part way and let up do this until the pedal becomes firm.
3 after you drive five or ten miles recheck every thing.
Hope this helps.

The bearing is "pressed" into the hub/spindle. On the 4x4 model the wheel hub is bolted onto the spindle from the back (remove wheel, caliper and bracket, axle nut, 3 bolts on the back and tap out). On the 2 wd model, It'll have to be pressed out, and back in. Remove the wheel, caliper and bracket. Follow the ABS sensor wire to the inner frame rail in the engine compartment and unplug it (along with removing the bolted clip on the upper "A" frame). Separate the tie rod end, upper and lower ball joints (won't affect the alignment) and remove the spindle. If you can locate a used one you can have it ready to put back in immediately.

you will need a C clamp a 12" pry bar a hammer + a male hex socket
or allen wrench if memory servs 5/16 3/8 or 10mm
I don't know how your C clamp is compress the calipar piston this way
remove the 2 female hex bolts at the top + bottom of the calipar by
inserting the proper allen wrench + give it a tap c clockwise remove bolts take pry bar + pry back at top of cal. wiggle it free + remove
outer pad place c clamp top to back of cal. DO NOT TOUCH BRAKE
HOSE BOLT OR FITTING screw end of clamp to inner pad + turn until
cal. piston is compressed remove inner pad save retaining clip if not
provided id new inner + outer pads put retaining clip on inside pad coat
contact points on back of pads with hi temp silicone + reverse procedure

Here's the steps....getting some pics for you....hang on a minute or two.

Front Hub Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Remove steering knuckle.
2. Using a suitable slap hammer, remove wheel hub assembly.
3. Using a suitable bearing press, remove outer bearing, oil seal, outer bearing race and preload spacer.
4. Remove inner oil seal, inner wheel bearing and inner bearing race.

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove dust cover (back plate).
To Install:

1. Using a suitable bearing press, install bearing races in steering knuckle.
2. Pack the bearings and hub area with lithium grease.
3. Install inner bearing in steering knuckle.
4. Lubricate lip of NEW inner seal and press seal into knuckle.
5. Install preload spacer into bore.
6. Install outer bearing into bore.
7. Lubricate lip of NEW outer seal and press seal into knuckle.
8. Using an appropriate tool, support inner wheel bearing and press wheel hub into knuckle with a force of 2500kg.
9. Install NEW inner seal.
10. Install knuckle assembly.

First, you have to take the rotor off. To get the rotor off you need a special tool (a hub wrench - a socket with four little prongs). Take off the clip on the the hub and then the washers (3). Use the hub wrench to remove the 2 rings. Pull off the rotor. Take the outer bearing out of the rotor. To get the inner bearing out you have to take the seal off. You can usually pry the seal off with a screwdriver. Once the seal is off, you can pull the inner ring out. Reverse procedure to put back on. Remember to put bearing grease on the hub and new bearings.