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j
jack Posted on Mar 23, 2017

I have a 2010 impala 3.5L changed pressure hose and P.S pump jacked it off ground did lock to lock several times topped off fluid and repeated but still no power steering is the rack & pinion shot ?

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 68 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 20, 2008

SOURCE: 05 impala steering noise. Rack or Power steering pump

the power steering fluid is probly the first thing u should check if that doesnt fix it replace ur fluid pump,.the resevior should be right around ur brake booster and master cylinder,.hope u fix it and find it

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Jonah Oneal

  • 14092 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 07, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 silverado 1500. I looks as if the rack and

SOUND LIKE TRANSMISSION PAN BOLT IS LOOSE OR PAN GASKET LEAKING.

Anonymous

  • 1486 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 28, 2009

SOURCE: my 2006 chevy impala has a massive power steering

You can change the seal.But check the shaft for a tram line type grove.If this is excesive then change the pump

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 08, 2010

SOURCE: 2006 impala power steering gone. leaking fluid.

There is a short vertical hose just behind the rack that can get bad and leak-2-3 inches long. Replaced mine with multipurpose hose from a local parts stor. Problem solved

david dixon

  • 740 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 11, 2010

SOURCE: replace rack and pinion

get it as high off the ground as possible (lift if possible) disconect lines tierod ends and pull all bolts holding it on and it sould just slip out of the wheel well

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Reset proportioning valve in 2001 ford explorer

Resetting a proportioning valve in a 2001 Ford Explorer typically involves bleeding the brake system to ensure proper brake pressure distribution. The proportioning valve adjusts the amount of brake pressure sent to the front and rear brakes to optimize braking performance. If you're experiencing brake-related issues or have replaced brake components, bleeding the brake system can help reset the proportioning valve. Here's how to do it:
**Tools and Materials Needed:**
- Brake fluid
- Jack and jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Wrenches
- Brake bleeder kit or clear plastic tubing
**Steps:**
1. **Safety Precautions:**
- Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
- Use wheel chocks to prevent the vehicle from rolling.
- Wear appropriate safety gear, including gloves and eye protection.
2. **Prepare the Vehicle:**
- Loosen the lug nuts on all four wheels, but do not remove them completely.
3. **Jack up the Vehicle:**
- Use a jack to lift the vehicle off the ground. Secure it with jack stands for safety.
4. **Bleeding Sequence:**
- Start with the brake caliper or wheel cylinder that is farthest from the master cylinder. In most cases, this would be the right rear wheel.
5. **Bleeding Process:**
- Have a helper pump the brake pedal several times and then hold it down.
- Loosen the bleeder valve on the brake caliper or wheel cylinder.
- Fluid and air bubbles should come out. Tighten the valve before your helper releases the brake pedal.
- Repeat this process (pumping, holding, opening, and closing the valve) until you see clear brake fluid without air bubbles.
6. **Repeat the Process:**
- Move to the next farthest brake caliper or wheel cylinder (left front, right front, left rear) and repeat the bleeding process.
7. **Check Brake Fluid Level:**
- Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir while bleeding. Make sure it doesn't run dry, as this can introduce air back into the system.
8. **Top Off Fluid:**
- After bleeding all the brake components, top off the brake fluid reservoir with fresh brake fluid to the recommended level.
9. **Test Brakes:**
- Lower the vehicle, tighten the lug nuts, and then fully tighten them in a crisscross pattern.
- Test the brakes to ensure they feel firm and responsive.
Bleeding the brake system is an important maintenance task, especially after working on the brakes or if you're experiencing spongy brakes. If you're unsure about the process or want to ensure proper brake system maintenance, consider seeking assistance from a professional mechanic.
2helpful
2answers

I replaced ps gear box.R&R box & filled the PS pump res. I started the engine and the steering wheel goes wild, going back and forth and can not be held in place. I restarted several times, same thing

Sounds like air in the system.
Jack up the front end til the front tires are off the ground, put jack stands under it, crank it and turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times while keeping fluid in the pump reservoir. See if the problem goes away. Then panic.
0helpful
1answer

Coolant hose needs to be replaced on a 2010 Chevy

U can drain fluid depending on which hose might not have to drain all...loosen clamps by squeezing 2 tabs and moving it back and replace.after replacing hose top off coolant and let run w cap off and make sure its full and no air pockets
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2005 Chevy Impala...all I did was change the lower radiator hose because it was leaking. Now the car overheats, the upper hose is hot and the lower hose is warm. Does this model have vapor lock issues or...

the lower radiator hose is a return hose and there are no vapor lock issues. If your coolant level is full when you start your vehicle and when it heats up and the system pressurizes your coolant expands with heat and then that excess pressure will go through the overflow outlet to the reservoir and the reservoir has a relief opening near the top to relieve pressure or for excess fluid to come out. If the lower hose is just warm then your water pump may not be circulating properly (be sure to check belt for tension no more than 1/2 inch of play should be present). One messy way to test water pump would be to first drain coolant if it is good to reuse it, then remove the lower hose, open the radiator cap and put a water hose in it and turn on half way. Look at the volume of water coming out and have someone start the vehicle and idle at about 2000 rpm if that volume has not doubled your pump is bad
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How to change vane pump o/h kit

FIRST OF ALL TURN OFF RADIO REMOVE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. THEN REMOVE POWER STEERING PUMP FLUID FROM POWER STEERING PUMP.USING A HAND PUMP SIPHON. BE CAREFUL DONT GET POWER STEERING FLUID ON CAR PAINT IT WILL DAMAGE PAINT JOB.PUT A DRAIN PAN UNDERNEATH CAR TO CATCH POWER STEERING FLUID THEN DISCONNECT POWER STEERING PUMP LINES.REMOVE POWER STEERING PUMP ADJUSTER BOLT AND MOUNTING BOLT.REMOVE POWER STEERING PUMP.MOST OF THE TIME NEW POWER STEERING PUMP DONT HAVE DRIVE PULLEY ON IT SO TAKE TO A MACHINE SHOP THE WILL REMOVE PULLEY FROM OLD PUMP AND PRESS ON THE PULLEY TO NEW POWER STEERING PUMP.BESURE TO BUY NEW O RINGS TO END OF PRESSURE LINE.ONCE NEW POWER STEERING PUMP HAS PULLEY IN PLACE AND YOU HAVE NEW O RING FOR HIGH PRESSURE LINE.INSTALL NEW PUMP.ADJUST BELT TENSION.NOW BLEED POWER STEERING PUMP WITH FRONT WHEELS POINT STRAIGHT A HEAD POSITION.POUR POWER STEERING FLUID IN PUMP UNTIL FLUID LEVEL ON COLD MARK ON POWER STEERING PUMP DIP STICK.KEEP ADDING FLUID UNTIL FLUID STOP DROPPING. START THE ENGINE LET IT RUN AT IDLE ADD MORE FLUID IF DROPS KEEP FLUID ON FULL COLD MARK.ON DIP STICK TURN OFF ENGINE.CHECK TO MAKE SURE POWER STEERING PUMP NOT LEAKING AT THE LINES THEN.SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT FRONT OF THE VECHICLE WITH JACK STANDS. MAKE SURE VECHICLE ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND CHECK.FLUID LEVEL MAKE SURE AT FULL COLD MARK. NOW START ENGINE.LET IDLE MINUTE.THEN TURN STEERING WHEEL ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT TO RIGHT SEVERAL TIMES WITH OUT STOPPING IT IN PLACE. CHECK POWER STEERING FLUID WHEN FLUID LEVEL STOP DROPPING.AND FLUID IS NOT A TAN COLOR WHICH MEAN LOTS OF AIR IN SYSTEM. TURN OFF CAR UNTIL AIR BUBBLES DISAPPEAR.CHECK FLUID LEVEL BLEED POWER STEERING AGAIN. DONT DRIVE VECHICLE UNTIL STEERING FEEL NORMAL.IF FLUID REMAIN TAN WITH AIR BUBBLES CHECK FOR LEAKS AT POWER STEERING PUMP PRESSURE HOSE ORING. AND CHECK POWER STEERING LINES TO PUMP FOR LEAKS.
1helpful
1answer

Is it very difficult to change the power steering pump in a 2004 kia sedona?

  1. Remove the Power Steering belt.
  2. Disconnect the power steering hoses from the power steering pump. Take caution as there may be some pressure.
  3. Remove the bolts holding the Power Steering pump to the pump mount.
  4. Install the new Power Steering pump.
  5. Reconnect the power steering hoses.
  6. Reconnect the Power Steering belt.
  7. Top off with fluid.
  8. Start up the vehicle.
  9. Turn the wheel to the left.
  10. Top off with fluid.
  11. Turn the wheel all the way to the right.
  12. Top off with fluid.
  13. Repeat the last 4 steps until the fluid level doesn't change much, and is topped off.


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I'm a mid-age woman w/a 94 DeVille that I want to change the brake fluid myself. How do I do that? Thank you!

BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING Diagonal Split System MASTER CYLINDER
  1. Refill the master cylinder reservoir.
  2. Push the plunger several times to force fluid into the piston.
  3. Continue pumping the plunger until the fluid is free of the air bubbles.
  4. Plug the outlet ports and install the master cylinder.
COMPLETE SYSTEM
  1. Fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. Check the level often during the procedure.
  2. Starting with the right rear wheel, remove the protective cap from the bleeder, if equipped, and place where it will not be lost. Clean the bleed screw. When bleeding the brakes, keep face away from the brake area. Spewing fluid may cause facial and/or visual damage. Do not allow brake fluid to spill on the vehicle's finish; it will remove the paint.
  3. If the system is empty, the most efficient way to get fluid down to the wheel is to loosen the bleeder about 1?2 - 3?4 turn, place a finger firmly over the bleeder and have a helper pump the brakes slowly until fluid comes out the bleeder. Once fluid is at the bleeder, close it before the pedal is released inside the vehicle. NOTE: If the pedal is pumped rapidly, the fluid will churn and create small air bubbles, which are difficult to remove from the system. These air bubbles will eventually congregate resulting in a spongy pedal.
  4. Once fluid has been pumped to the caliper or wheel cylinder, open the bleed screw again, have the helper press the brake pedal to the floor, lock the bleeder and have the helper slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds and repeat the procedure (including the 15 second wait) until no more air comes out of the bleeder upon application of the brake pedal. Remember to close the bleeder before the pedal is released inside the vehicle each time the bleeder is opened. If not, air will be induced into the system.
  5. If a helper is not available, connect a small hose to the bleeder, place the end in a container of brake fluid and proceed to pump the pedal from inside the vehicle until no more air comes out the bleeder. The hose will prevent air from entering the system.
  6. Repeat the procedure on remaining wheel cylinders in order:
    1. Step 1: Left front
    2. Step 2: Left rear
    3. Step 3: Right front
  7. Hydraulic brake systems must be totally flushed if the fluid becomes contaminated with water, dirt or other corrosive chemicals. To flush, bleed the entire system until all fluid has been replaced with the correct type of new fluid.
  8. Install the bleeder cap(s) on the bleeder to keep dirt out. Always road test the vehicle after brake work of any kind is done.
Teves® Anti-lock Brake System FRONT BRAKES
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF throughout this procedure.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Remove the reservoir cap. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
  4. Using the bleeder adapter tool, install it onto the fluid reservoir.
  5. Attach a diaphragm type pressure bleeder to the adapter and charge the bleeder to 20 psi.
  6. Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to either front wheel caliper and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  7. Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and purge the caliper until bubble free fluid flows from the hose.
  8. Tighten the bleeder screw and remove the bleeder equipment.
  9. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the pump to charge the accumulator.
  10. After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
REAR BRAKES
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Check and/or refill the master cylinder reservoir.
  4. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the system to charge. NOTE: The pump will turn OFF when the system is charged.
  5. Using a transparent vinyl tube, connect it to a rear wheel bleeder valve and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  6. Open the bleeder valve 1?2 - 3?4 turn and slightly depress the brake pedal for at least 10 seconds or until air is removed from the brake system. Close the bleeder valve. NOTE: It is a good idea to check the fluid level several times during the bleeding operation. Remember, depressurize the system before checking the reservoir fluid.
  7. Repeat the bleeding procedure for the other rear wheel.
  8. After bleeding, inspect the pedal for sponginess and the brake warning light for unbalanced pressure; if either of the conditions exist, repeat the bleeding procedure.
Bosch® III Anti-lock Brake System
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
  4. Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  5. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  6. Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  7. Disconnect the bleeder hose.
  8. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
Bosch® 2U Anti-lock Brake System
  1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  2. Using at least 50 lbs. pressure on the brake pedal, depress the pedal at least 25 times; a noticeable change in pedal pressure will be noticed when the accumulator is discharged.
  3. Check and/or refill the reservoir to the full mark.
  4. Using a transparent vinyl hose, connect it to a pump bleeder screw and insert the other end in a beaker 1?2 full of clean brake fluid.
  5. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  6. Move the transparent vinyl hose to the hydraulic unit bleeder screw. Loosen the bleeder screw 1?2 - 3?4 turn. Turn the ignition switch ON; the pump should run forcing fluid from the hose. When the fluid becomes bubble-free, turn the ignition switch OFF, tighten the bleeder screw.
  7. Disconnect the bleeder hose.
  8. Turn the ignition switch ON and allow the hydraulic unit to charge; the pump should turn OFF after 30 seconds.
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2helpful
2answers

Power steering pump

Whining may be normal.
Pulling fluid from reservoir may be normal.
But I would not expect the fluid to go back to the reservior when you stop.
Is it?
If so, you may have some trapped air or something.
Jack the wheels off the ground, and go lock to lock on the steering, several times, to bleed any air out.
3helpful
1answer

After I replaced the power steering pump and reservoir on my 2002 Jeep, I still get air in the system. Where could it be coming from?

Your problem could be a pressure side hose that has a rupture that only leaks in extreme conditions. Inspect to replace with new to repair problem. First make sure you have removed the pump caps off of the hose fittings. If ok, it appears you may have a stuck valve in the rack assembly. Replacing the rack should solve your problem. ------- The new pump should be self-bleeding by turning the wheels left and right. Let sit over night to release air bubbles, recheck fluid level.------ Check the tension of the drive belts on the pump, as they may be loose. The power steering pump and reservoir is located on the front of the engine driven by one of the fan belts. There is a removable cap on the top with a dipstick attached. With the engine off, fill this up to the full mark with power steering fluid. Replace the cap, start the engine and check for leaks. On the back of the pump are two hoses either one could be leaking. REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Wipe the power steering cap and area free of dirt. Remove the power steering cap.

2. Use a siphon pump to remove as much fluid as possible from the power steering fluid reservoir.

3. With a helper in the vehicle, raise the vehicle on an appropriate hoist.

WARNING :POWER STEERING FLUID, ENGINE PARTS, AND THE EXHAUST SYSTEM MAY BE EXTREMELY HOT IF THE ENGINE HAS BEEN RUNNING. DO NOT START ENGINE WITH ANY LOOSE OR DISCONNECTED HOSES. DO NOT ALLOW HOSES OR POWER STEERING FLUID TO TOUCH HOT EXHAUST MANI FOLD OR CATALYST.
4. Locate the power steering cooler attached to the crossmember support plate. Slide back the clamp and disconnect one of the two power steering return hoses at the power steering oil cooler and drain fluid in an appropriate container.
5. Have the helper turn the steering wheel back and forth quickly several times to force as much fluid as possible from the steering gear.
6. Reconnect the hose at the oil cooler using the original clamp.
7. Lower vehicle so the vehicle tires are not contacting the ground.
9. For proper fluid fill and bleeding air from the power steering system:

a. Fill the power steering reservoir to the top of the fill range using Mopar power steering fluid (ATF+4) p/n 05013458AA.

b. With the engine OFF and the vehicles tires off the ground, slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth (lock to lock) slowly 20 times to force fluid into the steering gear.

c. Fill the power steering reservoir to the top of the fill range.

d. Start engine and let run for a few seconds, then turn oft engine.

e. Check fluid level and add if necessary.

f. Start engine, and slowly turn the steering wheel lightly contacting the left and right stops.

g. Stop the engine and check fluid level. Add fluid if necessary.

h. Lower vehicle, start engine and slowly turn steering wheel lock-to-lock.

I. Stop engine and check fluid level. Add fluid if necessary.

j. If fluid is extremely foamy, allow vehicle to stabilize a few minutes, then repeat steps "i" and "j" until the fluid level remains constant after running the engine and turning the steering wheel from lock to lock.

10. Inform the vehicle owner/operator that a steering vibration may be noted for a few hundred miles until the air is completely removed from the steering system.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya
1helpful
1answer

1984 Toyota PU 4WD 22R Engine Makes Squealing noise at PS pump

you have to bleed the power steering system. you have someone turn the wheels to the left while you watch the power steering fluid level adding as needed. than repeat turning the wheels to the right. and repeat until the noise seems to get quieter and you don't have to ad any more fluid.


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