Need to replace the cam sensor on a 92 Ford Ranger. Have not been able to locate it. looks like the wires i have for the used one is 1 green/with pink strip, & 1 yellow, with black stripe. Have not been able to trace the wires down nor sensor. Any pictures would be greatly appreciated?
SOURCE: 2003 Ford Ranger/2.3 O2 sensor - How many and Where located ???
Engine Heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors—2.3L engine
SOURCE: need location of the erg sensor 2000 ford ranger
The egr valve has two sensors. One is an EGR position sensor which is physically attached to the EGR valve. The other sensor is the DPFE (Delta Pressure Feedback EGR) sensor, commonly called the EGR pressure sensor. It's location varies depending on the engine you have. You can fine this sensor by following the vacuum hose on the EGR valve. It will be with in inches of the EGR valve. The sensor will be black (plastic) or silver (metal), have two or three vacuum ports and an electrical connection on it.
The vacuum pressure sensor is a high failure item on fords. Any Ford parts department will have one in stock, as well as some aftermarket parts stores.
The new sensor may not look exactly the same as the old part, but will have all the hook ups as the old one. You may also need to replace the vacuum hose to the sensor as well
SOURCE: location of the egr sensor on 2000 ford ranger
The EGR pressure sensor is located within inches of the EGR valve. The exact location varies depending on the engine (2.5L, 3.0L or 4.0L). It is usually attached to the upper intake manifold with two small bolts.
SOURCE: most common cause for code P0340 of 95 Ranger
Hi, the cam shaft sensor will be located Under the hood, center, upper engine area, mounted behind
rear of intake manifold, in the engine block.
This is a magnetic or hall effect sensor. It sends
a signal to the computer relaying information about shaft speed,
position and acceleration or deceleration. This information determines
when the fuel/air mixture needs to be ignited and how much mixture is
needed for the engine.
The possible causes of failure will be faulty housing or faulty wires as well. A faulty ECM could trigger a false alarm as well. this is highly unlikely but, possible in most cases. The most reported reasons is flat out sensor failure.
Save your money, the chip is a ohm resistor at Radio Shack for under $2.00. It splices in to you IAT wire harness located at the intake tube between the air filter housing and throttle body.
Problem with this system is, that you can not adjust anything and have to run a constant 91 octane just to make sure you do not have a Detonation. The ECM will catch the Detonation from the knock sensor and compensate for it by retarding the timing which in turn lose of HP till next start up.
If you like and don't mind the check engine light on once and awhile, you can do the same by just disconnecting the IAT wire harness which give the ECM a 0 resistance thinking it's -20 out side and turn the timing up and lengths the injector pules.
When i was running a Nitro in the Toy before i sold it, i had installed a 10K ohm Potentiometer which you can buy at radio shack for under $5.00 i believe, I just spliced it in to the IAC wire harness so if i wanted to play with the Nitro I'ld turn the resistor up making the engine think it's 185 degrees F and would ****** the timing so i would not hurt the engine. But if i wanted to get more timing i would just turn the knob to drop the resistance to get more time since the engine thinks it's -20 out side.
Hope this helps. Keep me posted if you need more info. Best thing is to do a dyno tune and you can change everything right down to the Shift points.
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