What would cheap oil cause to the car that has a turbo.

Turbos are usually designed to last about 250,000km so a turbo blowing this soon is unusual. The most common reason for turbo failure are...
Poor oil supply to the bearings, faulty seals and gaskets, foreign objects in the turbo and in rare cases serious misuse of the turbo.
Turbo fan blade spin at a massively high speeds, (between 150,000 and 280,000rpm), so poor oil flow can cause the bearings to dry out and seize.
Faulty seals and gaskets can cause oil pressure to change and leaking oil into the wrong areas of the turbo. This can cause the turbo to wear out faster.
Foreign objects is simply something that has fallen or been sucked into the turbo damaging the blades or other areas of the turbo.
Misuse of a turbo is rare but not using a turbo correctly can wear them out faster. A general rule is don't just turn a turbo engine off when you park. Let the engine idle for about 10 to 15 seconds to let the turbo slow down as when idling the engine is still supplying the turbo with oil.
You may need to get a turbo specialist to look at this as soon as possible as a damaged turbo can cause damage inside the engine itself.

How many miles were put on the last oil change? Are you using a full synthetic oil? The amount of time the oil is in the engine doesn't really matter, it isn't like the oil has a 'use by' date on it. You also have to use a full synthetic oil as the heat in the turbo will 'cook' anything else. I go 5000 miles between changes on my turbo car and it isn't even water cooled like your turbo is. If you didn't go more than 6000 miles on the last oil change, I would demand arbitration so your case can be heard by a neutral party.

I haven't had the opportunity to see a CX7 in person but looking at the pictures, the turbo seems easy enough to reach. You'll have to drain the coolant and you may want to drain the oil as the level could be high enough to get out of the return tube coming from the bottom of the turbo. The bolts may be hard to remove from the exhaust but can be made easier by heating up the head of the bolt with a small torch, of course be careful not to set anything on fire. Since the turbo is a self-contained unit, there isn't anything to worry about falling out of getting out of place during removal.

I put together and installed my own turbo kit into my Escort about 6 years ago. I had a Garrett turbo that had a bad housing and even after 4 years of hard driving, the shaft never split. I put a cheap china turbo in there and it hasn't had any issue. Even if you went 10,000 miles on an oil change I can't see how that would cause the shaft to break. If the sludge built up to the point to stop the turbo from spinning, it wouldn't break. About the only thing I can think of that would make one break is improper balancing. Maybe that could happen from sludge, but I can't think of a way for it to happen. You really should get a copy of the entire warranty terms and see if an extended oil change can void your warranty. You should also exhaust all possible options before doing this yourself as if you do put the turbo on it, your warranty is definitely void. You typically find sludge in a turbo for a few reasons. A failed PCV system would cause the engine crankcase to become pressurized and that would coke up the oil. The turbo shaft seal can fail and force oil into the compressor housing and exhaust housing and then it would cook there until it became thick. The turbo cooling system can fail and the oil would cook each time you turn the vehicle off and cause it to coke up which would leave sludge. Of course, using anything but full synthetic would cause sludge no matter how well the rest of the system is working.

I realize I don't have a step-by-step for you to replace the turbo so if you to refuse the service and seek advice elsewhere, I won't hold it against you. But, I still think you should at least go to arbitration before you attempt this yourself as to protect your warranty. Just think, if your engine fails for some unrelated reason, they'll say it failed because you put the turbo on it.

I'm affraid it's the turbo that is faulty, and it's not a cheap job. the turbo has a oil pipe going to the turbo to lubricate the turbo bearing . When the bearing wears out the oil enters the engine and burns causing to smoke. Good luck

yes perfectly ok ,i would use a turbo diesel oil thats suitable for diesel and petrol engines and the cheapest one at that then change oil every 6000 miles with a oil filter every third oil change ,Do not spend money on expensive boy racer market oil use what the trade uses something like shell rotella and do not be fooled by fancy adverts like liquid engineering and all that stuff these fancy long life oils cause more engine failures than any cheap oil which is changed at regular intervals to prevent a build up of internal clagg inside the engine

right three squirts of fairy liquid and yes it musat be fairy and not the thin cheap one into the oil,then a pint of diesel poured in as well and run vehicle for a week ,drain oil and then refill with a diesel turbo oil cheapest you can get from supermarket ,and repeat the performance leave for a week or two becaue by this time the cam follower should have cleared itself a bit and the oil pressure should make it start adjusting ,Then after a few weeks change the oil again and the oil filter ,then forever after change oil every 6000miles with the diuesel turbo oil and oil filter every third oil change ,Do not use wynns or stp additives or fancy oils that claim a long life just a cheap diesel turbo oil and the inside of the engine will stay clean and the tappets will always adjust themselves .Their now isnt that simple compared to some motoring mags advice which are written by people that dont know the meaning black grime under fingernails ,just advertisers revenue that they write nice stories for

being 93' im not sure if the car has high miles, if it has 100k or more it would not surprised me if you start to get a poor performance and harsh noise comming out of the turbo. Life expectancy on the turbos usually run 100k and water cool tend to last a bit longer, some has better luck than other; than again it depend how the car has been driven, if it driven hard the turbos tend to work extra hard and burn out quicker. The most important factor now is that you have to maintain good clean oil change on regular basis and it very essential to cool and lubricate the tubo bearing. Bearing inside the housing usually tend to fail first, which will cause the turbo to spin unbalance wobbling in it housing causing it to make weird noise. I would take it to mechanic who know about the turbos, he can actually listen to it and tell you if the turbo is reaching the end of its life. turbo tend to get expensive to replace without it the car run very poorly and use excessive fuel consumption. If the turbo is reaching end of it life you can adjust the wast gate on the turbo to make the turbo not to run so hard, it will have some effect on performance however it will keep your turbo last allot longer than having it quit completely. Junk yard or ebay will be a good place to find a used turbo for cheap. hope that help some...

Hi ,
Not easy this one,when your turbo failed the oil feed to the turbo bearings continued to feed engine oil into the intake side(could not turn off),the engine is then Un-governed and free to rev way above maximum limit,it has then massively over heated, the oil treatments are unlikely to cause this problem ,usually down to not letting the Turbo "wind down " after driving,The best course of action is to replace the engine and turbo charger and have the induction pipes and intercooler properly cleaned ,there are no cheap fixes for this you were just unlucky.

check to make sure the turbo oil return pipe is not clogged. if it is pressure will build up causing oil leak through seal causing it to smoke.

Ok could be a couple diff things. I am going to gamble and say T6 ? if that is the case then it could be a easy fix, make sure u get a good engine flush. have you changed the oil as said to do in the maintance book ? did the person that owned the care before you do it ? Flush the engine at oil change, Then have them take the turbo SUPPLY hoses off and clean them. If they get clogged with sludge which is what burns up the turbo in most cases, it will caus eit to leak. there is also a couple seals there that can leak. maybe its a seal. either way they are cheap fixes and will save engine and turbo and also keep car and road clean. Good luck.

Could be the Turbo oil return pipe seal, its a cheap about $10 but you need to get to the pipe.
Its just a bit tricky to reach and you will need the gasket to go on the other end of the pipe when you take it off.
Its a well know fault check the Volvo Forums web site.