IT IS MISSING iVE REPLACED THE PLUGS
Misfiring Escort...
THE Guide!
1- check HT leads, including the main lead from the coil.
pull one off at a time and see if there is any difference in engine noise, if a lead makes no difference to the engine note when you pull it off it is broken and you need a new lead for that plug - best to replace a full set since the others will be on their way out too.
try each plug and check the leads like this with the engine running,
2- clean/repace distributor cap and rotor arm if it is dirty or corroded, there are 2 Clips, one on either side of the distributor cap, pull em off, take the distributor cap off, look inside the cap, there are 4 pins, are they all corroded and covered in white stuff?, they should be shiny brass, clean them up with fine wet and dry sandpaper, make them flat and shiny again.
also still on the distributor is the rotor arm, pull it off, it may need a bit of wiggling - clean this up the same with the wet and dry, get a very fine grade of wet and dry sandpaper since you want the metal to be as smooth as possible afterwards, once the cap and rotor both have shiny metal clean them with mild detergent, rinse and dry them fully, not only to clean them of dirt and grime but also the metal filings from the sanding are "bad" for the distributor..
once dried refit the rotor arm (it only goes on one way, do not force it)
refit the distributor cap, make sure its the right way round (make a note of its position BEFORE you remove it)
3- check if air filter is blocked and replace it if it is very dirty -
if you think it is blocked try running the engine without the filter and see if it runs better, you know for sure you have a bad filter if this is the case.
4- check fuel filter (especially on 1.0 and 1.3 engines)
for blockage and fuel line for blockage
(replacement costs £3.50-£5 or so)
apart from that its "experience required" jobs like setting the ignition timing - just get a normal tune up after you've checked out the leads and dizzy/rotor arm which is quite cheap on an escort, you only turn the dizzy and move 1 screw...
Just for reference in case i have misjudged you're ability and you want to try tune it yourself...
1989 MK4 Ford Escort ;-D
you didn't give CC so you'll get all engine data for 1989! (petrol)
NOTE: the CVH engines have hydraulic tappets so no adjustment is possible and no data is given.
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Escort 1.3 "HCS" 1988-1990 1297cc
Valve tappet clearances - Inlet --- 0.20mm
- Exhaust 0.32mm
Firing order 1-2-4-3
Idle speed - 700-800RPM -
750RPM is optimal idle
but anything between 700-800RMP is acceptable.
Ignition Timing-
15 Degrees before top dead center at idle RPM
Spark Plugs : Motorcraft - AGRF22
Champion - RS9YC
Spark Plug Gap - 1.00mm (check it is right or it will misfire...)
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Escort 1.4 (1392cc) "CVH" - 1986-1990
Firing Order 1-3-4-2
Idle speed 750-850RPM, 800 being optimum
_____
NOTE: This engine requires premium fuel (97 Ron) or it will run
poorly - damage may result from using low grade fuel.
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Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at idle RPM.
Spark plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C
Champion - RC7YC
Spark plug gap 0.75mm (check this)
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Escort 1.4i Catalyst - 1.4 "CVH" 1392cc 1989-1990
Idle RPM 850-950RPM
900RPM Being optimum
:This engine needs only regular unledad 95RON
Ignition timing - 8 to 12 degrees BTDC 10 degrees being optimum
Spark PLugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C1
Champion - RC7YC
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Ford Escort 1.6 "CVH" 1596CC
Firing order 1-3-4-2
Idle speed - 750-850RPM - 800 being optimal
Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at 800 RPM
Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C
Champion - RC7YC
Spark Plug Gap - 0.75mm (check it!)
NOTE :This engine will run on regular fuel (95 RON)
but the timing should be set to 8 Degrees BTDC at idle RPM for this fuel.
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FORD ESCORT 1.1 - 1989-1990 - 1118cc "HCS"
Firing order 1-2-4-3
Idle speed - 700-800RPM 750 Being optimal
This engine runs on regular or premium fuel without adjustment
Ignition Timing - 10 degrees BTDC
Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGRF22C1
Champion - RS9YC
Spark Plug Gap 1.00mm (check this!)
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So check your spark plug gaps with feeler guages
if you don't have a feeler guage they're less than a fiver at a cheap motor shop - even pound shop and market stalls sometimes have them.
Apart from that lot -
these cars can run bad if the battery is weak, they chug like hell on a half charged or failing battery, so make sure the battery is strong too...
The carburettor jets could be clogged or worn...
Inlet manifold could be leaking?
Check the low tension wiring (the wiring on the ignition coil, the two round plugs that puch onto the coil)
one red and one green/black/stripey/somethin -
trace these two wires around the engine bay and check them for damage and loose connections.
Thats all I can think of right now
tell me how you get on, I KNOW these cars...
I'll go step by step if you need help checking everything/replacing whats wrong,
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Good luck.
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