I REMOVED ALL MY INJECTOR CONNECTORS EXCEPT ONE AND HOLD MY HAND OVER INTAKE TO GET IT TO START FOR A SECOND. 99 HONDA ACCORD 4 CYL. 5SPEED.WHAT COULD THIS BE CAUSED BY?

accord stalling on every stop. (1/2) - EricTheCarGuy ...

www.ericthecarguy.com/.../8.../46884-accord-stalling-on-every-stop

The car runs good but stalls every time i come to a stop. ... a stop then it diesagain.only on the stops does the idle drop very low to the point of stalling.what ... only when I start slowing down and come to a complete stop RPM's go down and the cardies. ... The popular Honda Civic and Accord vehicles share many powertrain ...

1998 Honda Accord loses rpm/ stalls coming to a stop ...

honda-tech.com/honda-accord.../1998-honda-accord-loses-rpm-stalls-co...

Jan 10, 2013 - I just bought a 1998 4 cyl 2.3 L Honda Accord two days ago. ... 1998Honda Accord loses rpm/ stalls coming to a stop. .... Is clockwise high idle or low idle? all in all i probable rotated counterclockwide 1.5 or 2 turns. maybe this ...

1999 Accord, 130k+, stalls when slowing to a stop - Honda Accord ...

www.hondaaccordforum.com > ... > General > General Tech Help

Mar 10, 2010 - My fiancee's '99 Accord EX Coupe 4-cylinder automatic, with 130,000+ miles, has recently (in .... No low RPM & feeling like it's GOING TO stall.

99 Honda Accord - Strange Stalling Issues! HELP!

https://www.2carpros.com/.../1999-honda-accord-99-strange-stalling-issu...

My 1999 Honda Accord is having sporadic stalling problems. I've noticed a pattern. Itstalls while going slow speeds and stop and go traffic, etc. The engine just ...

Stalling or Low Engine Idle Speed Due to Dirty ... - Repair

double posted. n/a

Different make and model of cars have different location for it ECU however i most case the ECU is located in the passenger area or engine bay. If it is in the passenger area, most likely it is behind the radio in the center console or behind the glove box.

Do you hear a loud "click" when you attempt to start from under the hood?

no, the plug is firing. But the timing is off. the plug is firing quite a bit before top dead center on that cylinder. The burning of the fuel mixture is occurring while that piston is on its way up and is slowing it down---dragging down the whole engine. i think you should change the distributor cap and rotor as cylinder one is firing at the same time as cylinder 2or 4. This indicates a possible carbon track in the distributor cap.

INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR LOCATED ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal (if you have an anti-theft radio, make sure you have the code to reactivate it.).
Relieve the fuel pressure (take the gas cap off, and loosen service bolt at the top of the fuel filter; you will need two wrenches for that, on to hold the fitting and the other to loosen the nut; make sure you have a towel or something to catch the gas spill). You could, instead, just SLOWLY loosen the pressure line at the right end of the fuel rail (facing the car).
Remove the air cleaner assembly (take the top off, take out the filter, detach all hoses, take out retaining bolts, and remove).
Unplug the injector connectors (CAREFULLY detach the clips first; just pry them back out of their notches; try not to pop them off and drop one, they are hard to find once dropped).
Detach the vacuum hose and fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator (left end of the fuel rail, if you are facing the vehicle)
Detach the two ground cables from the intake manifold (in the middle, under one nut)
Detach the fuel lines (already did left one; detach the pressure line at the right end of the fuel rail).
Remove the mounting nuts (four) and detach the fuel rail and injectors from the intake manifold.
Remove the injectors from the fuel rail and remove and discard the seal rings (top and bottom; the second ring down on the top is the cushion ring and does not need to be replaced, but it is recommended. Most kits contain them)
Coat the new o-rings with fresh oil and slip them on the injectors (or, if you are replacing the injectors they probably came with o-rings on them. Just coat them with oil)
Place each injector into its corresponding bore in the fuel rail (doesn’t matter which is which if you are replacing them all).
Coat each new bottom seal with oil and press it into the injector bores in the intake manifold.
Install the injector and fuel rail assembly on the intake manifold. Make sure the centerline of the electrical connector on each injector is aligned with its corresponding mark on the intake manifold (little arrows, I think). Tighten the fuel rail nuts to the specified torque (17 lbs)
Reverse removal procedure for the rest.
After all is done, turn the ignition on, but do not start the car. This will build up pressure in your fuel lines. Do that two or three times, then check to see if you have any leakage around the injector, or other fittings, before you start the car.
Then you’re done.
Hope this gets you through it.

Is this for a 4 or 6 cylinder engine?

If it is for the 4 cylinder, it's not that easy as the intake manifiold needs to be removed before the starter can be removed as the starter is under the intake manifold. Once the manifold is removed then it's a matter of a couple bolts and connections. It's not that quick a job.

It's not that easy. Yes, 2 bolts hold the starter down but you have to remove the whole intake manifold to access the starter to remove it.

Hello;
Spray starter fuid or brake fluid in the intake, If the car starts I would check each injector for pulse, then you can start looking at the pmc for problems,
How is the compression in each cyl ? I have did this myself, (washed out the cyl) put some motor oil in cyl. and replace plugs ,then try to start.
good luck I hope this helps.