How to remove a water pump in a 2001 Chevy Tracker 2.5 v6 w/ automatic. I already have the rad, belts, hoses and fan/clutch out of the way.

How-To Replace The Serpentine Belt On A Chevy Tracker ...

? 1:22
www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXLTZzEZdSU
Oct 28, 2014 - Uploaded by Deo Ole
How-To Replace The Serpentine Belt On A Chevy Tracker ...2001 Chevy Tracker V6 2.5L Head Instal and Timing Chain Instal - Duration: ... XL 7 2.7L Air conditioning compressor removal and smaller belt installed - Duration:

This is caused by one of the things you already replaced , including the A/C compressor and power steering pump. Or it could be from a wrong size or over stretched belt.

GM use a particular item on one of the idlers
there will be a 1/2" square hole in the center of it
use a strong bar and lift the pulley up against a spring
install the new belt and when properly installed let the pulley back onto the belt

Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Denali, DenaliXL, YukonXL 1999-2005 Water Pump - Removal & Installation 4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L Engines

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Air outlet duct Coolant Inlet radiator hose from the water pump Upper fan shroud Cooling fan and clutch assembly Drive belt Radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump Surge tank hose Heater hose Water pump
   
   
   Fig. Exploded view of the water pump assembly-4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines
   

To install:

NOTE DO NOT use cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) unless otherwise instructed. The use of cooling system seal tabs (or similar compounds) may restrict coolant flow through the passages of the cooling system or the engine components. Restricted coolant flow may cause engine overheating and/or damage to the cooling system or the engine components/assembly.

1. Install or connect the following:
   Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the water pump bolts first pass to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten the pulley bolts first pass to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm); tighten the bolts final pass to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). Surge tank hose Heater hose Outlet radiator hose to the coolant pump Drive belt Cooling fan and clutch assembly Upper fan shroud Inlet radiator hose to the water pump Air inlet duct Coolant

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Air inlet and outlet duct Coolant Inlet radiator hose from the water pump Upper fan shroud Cooling fan and clutch assembly Drive belt Radiator outlet hose from the coolant pump Surge tank hose Heater hose Water pump
   
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Water pump. Install the water pump bolts. Tighten the bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) for the first pass; then tighten to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm) for the final pass. Water pump drive belt pulley and bolts (if applicable). Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) for the first pass; then tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) for the final pass. Surge tank hose Heater hose Outlet radiator hose to the coolant pump Drive belt Cooling fan and clutch assembly Upper fan shroud Inlet radiator hose to the water pump Air inlet and outlet duct Coolant

Hope this help to solve it (remember comment and rated this).

1 disconnect battery ground cable
2 drain cooling system
3 on models with a/c, proceed as follows:

a discharge a/c system
b loosen upper and lower compressor bolts and remove compressor drive belt
c remove a/c line from top of radiator shroud

4 remove water pump drive belt
5 remove reservoir tank from radiator bracket
6 remove radiator shroud and fan/clutch from vehicle
7 remove waterpump pulley from waterpump
8 remove timing tensioner and timing belt
9 remove dipstick tube
10 remove alternator mounting bracket at water pump
11 remove water pump mounting bolts and water pump
12 reverse procedure to install, using new gasket and rubber seal

it may be a little off, but the lower water hose seldom gets very hot,, as its this hose that suplyes the engine with ""cold water"" the hot water comes out the top hose,, drains down the rad and cools on the way down then enters the engine through the bottom hose """if your engine stayes running in the normal place on the gage,,,and not over heating""" why are you spending money for nothing???""
you wont get the bottom hose to run hot unless the engine is cooking

The waterpump on a chevy suburban can be removed once you remove the radiator fan.

1. Drain the coolant from the system.
2. Here is a way to remove the fan clutch withouy a fan clutch tool. The trick is to leave the belt on and tight.
3. Take a 1 7/16 inch wrench and put it behind the fan onto the big shaft nut attaching the fan to the water pump. P
4. ut it straight up and crack it counterclockwise with a hammer.
5. This should loosen the nut.
6. After that just spin the fan off and the rest is easy.
7. Make sure you clean the old seal off of the engine. It is small and easy to miss.
8. remove the serpentine belt.
9. remove the hoses connecting to the water pump
10. remove 4 bolts holding the water pump onto the block
11. clean the block of any old gasket
12. fit the new waterpump and new gasket.
13. connect the hoses to the pump.
14. refit the serpentine belt
15. refit the fan
16. refit the rad and cowling
17. fill it up with coolant.
18. Run the engine and check for leaks.

The text below is from the GM Service manual 4.3L V6 Engine
Water Pump Replacement (4.3L)
Removal Procedure
Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System .
Loosen the water pump pulley bolts.
Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly.

Tools Required
J 46406 Fan Clutch Wrench

Removal Procedure
Remove the upper fan shroud.
Remove the fan clutch from the water pump in a counterclockwise direction using the J 46406 .
Remove the fan clutch assembly.
Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement Remove the water pump pulley mounting bolts.
Remove the water pump pulley.
Remove the radiator outlet hose clamp from the water pump.
Remove radiator outlet hose from the water pump.
Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
Remove the water pump from the engine.
Remove the water pump gaskets.
Clean the water pump gasket mating surfaces.
Installation Procedure
Install the water pump gaskets.
Install the water pump to the engine.
Apply a sealer (GM P/N 12346004) to the bolt threads.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the water pump mounting bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the mounting bolts to 41 N·m (30 lb ft).
Install the radiator outlet hose to the water pump.
Install the water pump pulley.
Install the water pump pulley bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Install the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 4.3L.
Install the fan clutch assembly.
Fill the radiator cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System .
Inspect the cooling system for leaks.

the hardest part of this job is removing your fan clutch. you removed your top fan shroud, then your fan clutch, its reverse thread. take off your belt, upper radiator hose and 6 10mm bolts hold it in. clean water pump housing and put all back together. aftermarket water pumps do not come with theermostat, dealer pumps do. remove your belt tensioner from old water pump 3- 15mm bolt, two different sizes and install on your new pump. you need, 10mm socket, 15mm socket, flat head screw driver, pliers to removed hose,fan clutch tool(rent at autoparts store)

At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.