2004 Mountaineer no start no crank? Battery, starter, fuses, relays all good. No code errors. PATS problem. Original keys&fobs all good even reset manually and good. All dash lights functions ok.

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.

Did you disconnect the battery when you changed the starter over? Then did you reset the alarm and engine immobilizer?

Reset information

https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+chevy+equinox+anti+theft+reset

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ANSWERED: No crank no start (Chevrolet Equinox)

CarGurus.ca https://www.cargurus.ca > Discussion-t35502_ds797539
13 answers
Weak or bad battery, bad starter or poor connections or corrosion at the battery and or the starter.

Have you tested to see if the starter is good?

POST ALL EVIDENCE FIRST. NOT A EASTER EGG HUNT.
check all fuses first
don;'t have 2 working keyfobs??????
then if the key fails
the cluster (speedo) will glow the security lamp telling you it or the key is failing
not scanning the PCM with a real scan tool means you never learn why/>?
no symptoms told at all, just useless hunt. for relays,
doors dead
car will not start and run.
security lamps glows wrong./?
check fuses
make sure battery is not weak or dead.
12.6vdc is good.
below 10vdc the on car computer brains go WACKY.
make sure battery is good and fully changed first. (both)
have battery load tested if not sure.
then scan the PCM.

look for PATS errors

passive anti-theft system (PATS) security access
Vehicles Built Before 03/2002 have different system for security. most PATS failuers are dealer only fixes.
if just a bad key (fob ) most lock smiths can cure that
for sure with spare 2nd good key,
never just have 1 key or repair costs and explode.

The PATS anti-theft system will not let the starter engage an spin the engine around to start the vehicle if the theft deterrent module does not get correct coded value from the pats key. There is a transponder in the head of the key - when put into the lock cylinder a antenna behind the plastic steering column energizes the transponder which makes it send it's unique code to the computers on the vehicle. You have no clue what you're doing . Take it to a qualified repair shop .

You would need a factory scan tool to check for codes in the computers before just replacing parts. Changing the ignition ? lock & key assemble or the electrical part of ignition switch? If key an lock cylinder the key needs to be programmed into the control modules .

Anti-Theft NOTE: If the instrument cluster or the PCM (or both) is installed, the parameters must be reset in both modules or the vehicle will experience a passive anti-theft system (PATS) no-start. For additional information, refer to Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) Parameter Reset in this section.
PATS consists of the following components:

• Anti-theft indicator (located in the autolamp/sunload sensor)
• Encoded (the key contains a transponder) ignition key
• PATS transceiver
• Instrument cluster
• Powertrain control module (PCM)

PATS uses radio frequency identification technology to deter a drive-away theft. Passive means that it does not require any activity by the user.
The vehicle is equipped with 2 PATS keys. A maximum of 8 PATS keys can be programmed to start the vehicle. If additional PATS keys are desired, refer to Spare Key Programming - Unlimited Key Mode in this section.

learn to use a volt meter,
find the stopping point, on most cars it is.
All fuses good, skip none. we test them.
battery good and charged overnight.
FAILS IN PARK AND NEUTRAL BOTH?<<HUMMMMMMMM
The IMMO lamp talks to you, tells you it likes the key or not
told in all Users manuals for this car <read that?
paths (for sure this car, PCM runs starter RELAY) I see the schematic.

IGN.key, IMMO box>>>BCM?> tells IMMO is happy to>PCM >
and PCM knows tranny is in park or neutral and is GO for cranks.
if NOT?
the PCM blocks you. (Bad tranny switches)! starter relay DEAD.
the PCM happy (and immo) the PCM closes the STARTER RELAY. and bam it cranks fast even 300RPM crank shaft fast)

IF STARTER MOTOR IS IS DEAD, THE RELAY IS NOW HEARD TO CLICK (DOES IT)????? a 2 person test ,see?
1 at key 2nd at relay ear new it . heard.
------------------------------------- now way2.
ONE CAN HOT WIRE ANY STARTER, MADE
IN PARK +EMG brake hard set , we chock the Front wheels.
then get access to the stater motor solenoid(on its side)
right side front of engine,facing same.
there 3 lugs , 2 huge(or 1) and 1 tiny
remove Mr. tiny, and jump tiny to big outboard LUG (battery PLUS)
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrgrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr (car is safe key off)
if battery is good the starter spins. if chatters or just licks battery is dead or starter is dead, one can jump start car too.
---------------------------------easy no? ----------------------------------
now the volt meter. way. easy as pie.
the only hard part is learning the art of back probing wires.

we start to test 3 ways. (end, middle or keyside)<< wire paths

best is in the middle but luck (fate) always wins this saga.
at the starter relay we probe its 4 pins. (a skill set here)
Using 1 of 2 Ignition keys, IMMO happy via cluster light happy)
crank it.
cranked, 12vdc across its coil pins. if not the PCM end is not happy.
if yes the PCM is happy (wow just one test and now I know all that , yes.)
and 12vdc at relay contact input (if not fuses are blown !!!)
then key on cranked again, see this.
and keyed crank, the output contact goes to 12vdc and makes it all the way the tiny starter pin. if not this wire is broken relay to stater solenoid or solenoid is dead, but is not the HOT wire test passes.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NO CODES my guess is done wrong.?
OBD2 connected and working,
crank for 10 full seconds.
release key ,not off
wait for up to 5min for the tool to see all cranking errors!
now you see them even battery voltage fails and more.
if lucky, but some cars can't see crank errors. IMMO YES!

codes (DTC)
immobilizer system B1600/1/2 ,bad key. got 2 keys , like it had new:
some IMMo do not block cranks only blocks fuel.(or spark)
my online schematics for this car STINKS , horrible coverage
or could do 10x better.

chech and test fuse relay and connections === test battery [load test ] ---test starter and solenoid

You will get your solution and all info on service info, repair info, parts info, wiring/electrical/fuse diagrams, error/fault codes, torque specs, PCV,

owner's/service/repair/parts/maintenance manuals etc everything
this website www.reliable-store.com
it's a very good website for vehicle problems even as old as 1991 ford..

Try turning engine over with the head lights on, do the head or dash lights dim? Check earth straps, eg. battery to chassis, engine block to chassis, battery to engine block, (may not have battery to engine block), then check starter solenoid/relay and motor, then Check all power fuses, and fuse relays.

do you hear any noises ???
start with a bad connection and then fuses/relay and then switch or starter
do the dash lights come on when you turn the key on ???
this will get you going

First thing I would check is to see if you have power at the trigger wire of the starter motor while someone is trying to start the vehicle for you. It will be a Yellow with a light blue trace. If you do then I would check to see if the main battery cable has power to it all the time when someone is trying to crank it. If it does then I would hold a test light on the case of the starter motor and have someone try to crank it. Make sure that the ground you use for this test is on the negative battery terminal not just anywhere on the car. If the test light lights while you are cranking it then you have a bad ground. Hook up a set of jumper cables from the battery negative terminal and clamp it directly on to your starter motor and see if it starts. If you check it and the test light doesn't light up and all the other checks are good then your starter motor has failed. If one of the other tests has failed then you have a starter relay problem or something else. let me know what you find out.