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Anonymous Posted on Dec 23, 2016

2000 volvo s80 turbo code p0121

After hard acceleration car will got limp mode. Replaced turbo boost sendor, cleaned MAf WITH sensor cleaner (CRC) oil and filters all done, evap sensor, fresh evap tubing, gas cap replaced, cam seal fixed, camshaft solenoid cleaned and put back, new plug,s tune up, and down to just this with P0121

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Bill Boyd

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  • Volvo Master 53,816 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 23, 2016
Bill Boyd
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Code p 0121 refers to throttle position (TP) sensor A/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor A--range/ performance problem===causes ---accelerator cable adjustment--TP/APP sensor ---wiring

Testimonial: "Thanks. Guess I will look up that and go from there. It has been fun for me to work on the car and lucky my mechanic, indie and loves Volvo also let me tinker, but the big stuff he gets. I will let ya know"

  • Anonymous Dec 23, 2016

    Well I also knew what the code was as I do have a code reader and looked it up, as to the wiring issue that is were I seem to be more lost. I have read up and looked at youtube videos but still feel unsure.
    xemodex indicates that the engine management relay may be faulty, and others indicate to check wiring to and at the throttle body itself. A push in the right direction would be helpful in this case. Thanks I am certainly no Mr. mechanic but I have been know to have to get the grease from under the fingernails cleaned out.
    Much appreciate all the help

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2005 Toyota Camry - check engine light on, car wouldn't accelerate, ran code scanner and got P0121 back. Replaced various sensors but problem persists - PLEASE HELP

P0121 is normally a bad throttle position sensor - since you've already replaced it, check for damage in the wiring harness.

If you have a scan tool that can read the values, check to see what you get at the idle and WOT positions.
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Why does my 2000 S80 T6 Volvo sputters?

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MAF needs cleaning 2000 volvo s80

My 2001 S80 was doing the same thing. I took it to the local Volvo dealer and they did a software upgrade at no charge. Purrs like a kitten now.
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Hi Guys and girls Help!! My Accelerator stuck in limp mode. I have been to 6, yes 6 mechanics, and everyone says they cant work it out so please help. 1) Accelerator in Limp Mode 2) Battery light was on...

have the mechanics checked the egr valve and the vacuum lines and hoses. like vac leaks, n75 bad, vnt sticking, intake sooted, egr passing, and sooted up exhaust turbine. Bad Maf (Oxygen Sensor)
Leak in the vacuum system
Faulty N75
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it can be any of above symtoms. hope this steers you in the right way. have a good day !!
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Engine starts normally then cuts out after about 1 second. The time until it cuts out is exactly the same whether started with or without throttle and seems to be an electrical cut out. All warning lamps...

Limp Mode - These cars are designed to protect themselves from engine damage. If the engine boosts too much, or the engine does not get enough fuel it will go into a limp mode where boost is limited to protect the engine. It limits boost by controlling a solenoid on the wastegate line (N75), by closing the electronic throttle or by opening the DV valve. If you are experiencing a limp mode the best thing to do is get the car scanned for codes and to see what is wrong. Look at fuel trims for signs of running lean, and to look for MAF problems, or O2 sensor problems. To look for potential boost problems log Block 115 and you can see the specified Vs actual boost. If you exceed the specified then there is a good chance that you will go into this limp mode. Stock specified is a max of 14 psi for a 2002+ car.MAF - Mass Air Flow Meter - is used to measure the air going into the engine. It is located on the outlet of the airbox, and housed in a cylindrical tube. The ECU reads the MAF signal, and injects fuel in proportion to the airflow. There are a few different ways the MAF can fail. The MAF can get coated with oil, and will not read properly. This is common if it happens right after installing a CAI, or a K&N filter. It can be cleaned out with 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a quality electronics cleaner. Remove the sensor from the housing and clean the sensor element.
MAF sensors also go bad due to too much airflow. On a car with a larger turbo the airflow is so high that the MAF element will get burned out from the excess air flow. It is common to increase the size of the housing to prevent this (other modifications required).
To check for a BAD MAF the best way is with a VAG com. Block 002 show air mass from the sensor. At idle the air flow should be 2-4 grams/second. With a wide open throttle run to redline the reading should show up to 170 g/s on a chipped car. Look for jumpy readings in the MAF, which can indicate a problem. More details here: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/fuel-trim.html

if you suspect your MAF is bad, one way to test it is to unplug the MAF, often if the MAF is giving false readings and upsets the fueling. If you unplug it, the ECU will ignore the MAF and run off of baseline tables. Be careful, as a boost leak or a vacuum leak can be miss-diagnosed as a bad MAF, because they will throw off the readings on the MAF. (Air sneaks around the MAF).
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