H1 HUMMER BELT PULLEY DIAGRAM

Timing belt installation

1. Ensure locking bolts located correctly [4] & [5] in the picture below:

CS = Crankshaft
CA = Camshaft
IP = Injection Pump

2. Ensure timing marks aligned [10].
3. Fit timing belt in clockwise direction, starting at crankshaft sprocket.

NOTE: "ISUZU" lettering on belt should be readable from front of engine.

4. Slacken tensioner pulley bolt [9]. Push tensioner pulley against belt.
5. Ensure belt is taut between injection pump sprocket and tensioner pulley as well as crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket.
6. Position tensioner lever [8] against tensioner pulley housing.
7. Remove locking bolts from sprockets [4] & [5].
8. Apply a load of 10 ... 12 kg to tensioner lever. Use spring balance [11].
9. Tighten tensioner pulley bolt to 80 Nm.
10. Turn crankshaft slowly 45 degrees anti-clockwise. Use spring balance to tension belt.
11. Repeat tensioning procedure at 45 degrees intervals for one anti-clockwise turn of the crankshaft.

NOTE: DO NOT turn crankshaft clockwise during tensioning procedure!

12. Fit tensioner lever to original position. Tighten nuts [12].
13. Install: Injection Pump flange [6], Camshaft sprocket flange [7], and water pump pulley.
14. Install components in reverse order of removal & refill coolant.

Hope that helps. and good luck out there in the country side.

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a ratchet and socket, read the serpentine belt routing diagram located under the hood, then release the serpentine belt tensioner using a ratchet and socket, and carefully remove the serpentine belt from all of the pulleys with your hands. 2 Install the new belt according the routing diagram, then ease the belt onto the belt tensioner pulley and tighten the tensioner with a ratchet and socket.3 Reconnect the battery cable and start the car to test the belt.

Find the tensioner. The serpentine belt tensioner is what holds the belt in place with the correct tension: it is held to the engine by two bolts. Some describe the Hyundai Sonata tensioner pulley as attached to a teardrop shape, with the bolts holding the structure to the engine.

2 Remove the two bolts near the tensioner with your wrench (bolt size may vary by model). Take off the tensioner and the belt.

3 Use a belt routing diagram or your own sketches to replace the serpentine belt. This is helpful for some models: from the power steering pump, the belt goes to the left of the idler pulley, then over and around the right side of the air conditioner compressor pulley, around the left side of the crank pulley, to the right of the tensioner pulley, and down to the alternator.

4 Replace the tensioner and the new belt together. Mechanics recommend seating the belt on the tensioner before replacing the tensioner onto the engine rather than trying to pry the belt over the pulley.

5 Tighten the two lock bolts that hold the tensioner.

6 Check to see that the belt is seated correctly on all of the pulleys. Run the engine and observe to check for proper installation.

Open the hood to the Saturn SL and locate the serpentine belt routing diagram on the front engine frame rail. This diagram will show you where the tensioner pulley is in comparison to the others. You will need to refer to it to make sure the belt is aligned properly when it comes time to place the belt back on.

2 Stand on the side of the right fender of the Saturn SL located in front of the belt and pulleys. Locate the tensioner pulley according to the belt routing diagram. Different applications of Saturn SLs (for example, with power steering and air conditioning or without power steering or air conditioning or any variety thereof) may place the automatic belt tensioner in slightly different locations. As you will note from the room between the engine and the interior fender well, you have an extremely limited amount of room to work. This is why the telescopic magnet will come in handy; you're going to drop a wrench and need to retrieve it from the bottom of the splash shield.

3 Place the box end of the long-handled 14-mm wrench onto the center bolt of the automatic tensioner and turn it clockwise. This will relieve the tension on the belt. Take the belt off the upper-right hand pulley only (unless you're replacing the belt as well) toward the front of the car. Allow the tension to go back and remove the wrench.

4 Slip the back of the serpentine belt off the tensioner. Locate the two bolts on the flange of the tensioner and remove them, using the ratchet and a deep socket. If you need more room to get to the bolts, you could remove the pulley wheel off the automatic belt tensioner by placing the 14-mm long-handled wrench back onto the center bolt of the pulley but turn counterclockwise and remove the bolt and pulley.

5 Install the new belt tensionser, replace the bolts, threading them in by hand at first and then tightening with the ratchet and socket. This is going to be challenging due to the lack of room in the cavity you're working. Place the 14-mm wrench back onto the center bolt of the tensioner pulley and turn clockwise to release the tension and reapply the belt to the upper pulley and on top of the tensioner or replace the belt, according to the belt routing diagram.

it the belt is loose, the tensioner is bad. Its a pulley that should move and has spring tension on it. its a large pulley about 3" in diameter. replace the belt and tensioner.

ps...you do not have to Post another Question....just Add a Comment to this question.

"HOW TO": I professionally prefer the Serpentine Tensioner Tool.
Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner:
1. Find the Tensioner(s).
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (located on the Tensioner Pulley rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
4. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.

Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley and Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.

Click on the following free direct Link. It has several of the Serpentine Belt Diagrams and Tensioners that are possible with your 2.0L 4-Cylinder engine and engine options (AC/No AC, etc.).

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1990/make/pontiac/model/sunbird/1990_pontiac_sunbird_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

A. Remove the Serpentine Belt.
"HOW TO":
Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with a Tensioner:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
4. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.

B. Remove the Tensioner:
Removing the Tensioner Pulley: See the Diagrams in the Link.
After the Belt has been removed, with the Tensioner resting:
DEPENDING ON WHAT TYPE TENSIONER:
(1.) IF the Tensioner Pulley itself HAS a Bolt Head showing, SOME of these bolts can be removed and the Tensioner Pulley replaced.
(2.) IF the Tensioner Pulley itself DOES NOT HAVE a Bolt Head showing, then go to the Tensioner Base located at the end of the Tensioner Arm. This should have a Bolt Head Showing. Remove this Bolt and the whole Tensioner Assembly will come off.
(3.) Some Tensioner Assembly's need you to locate and remove mounting bolts.

If Applicable: When replacing the Tensioner Assembly - MAKE SURE you place the protruding "nipple" on the underside base of the Tensioner into the appropriate cavity on the engine face.

Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with Tensioners:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!

Tensioner is attached with 2 10mm bolts at block.place jack under oil pan,remove upper engine mount,jack engine up slightly to gain access to tensioner.it's easier if you remove the pulley bolt & pulley first then the 2 10mm bolts.

These instructions are for the 3.1 L engine with serpentine belt. To change the belt, you need to remove the engine mount first. But before you do that, you must support the engine so it won't tilt after you remove the engine mount bolts. You would also need at least one helper. Here's step by step: 1. Use a jack and a long enough wooden block to cover the oil pan. Larger block will distribute the forces better. Don't use only a jack or a small block, it might crack the oil pan. Note: normally, you shouldn't lift engine by the oil pan, you should use an engine hoist, but carefully support with wooden block works. 2. Slowly raise the jack to support the engine. 3. Unscrew (Counter Clock Wise) the 2 bolts and 2 nuts of the engine mount. It's on the passenger side right next to the serpentine belt. 4. Loosen the tensioner bolt, and remove the old belt. You may have to raise the engine a bit to get a big enough gap to slide the belt through. 5. Put in the new belt and route it according to the diagram, you may have to leave it off one of the pulley because the tensioner is so tight. Don't worry, you'll slide it on later. 6. Put tighten the tensioner back on. Make sure the round metal pin goes in the appropriate slot. 7. Here's the hard part, putting the belt entirely on the pulleys. You have to either: a) Put a 3/8" ratchet in to the slot near the tension pulley that says "LIFT" and pull really hard to compress the spring, while putting the belt on the one of the pulley. Unless you are Arnold, you will need help. b) Pull a rope behind the tension pulley arm and pull while pushing with your left arm on the pulley arm to compress the spring; then get another person to hook the belt on one of the pulleys. 8. Put the engine mount back on. 9. Test run the engine to make sure you didn't mess up. Turn on accessories like A/C. If the temperature goes way up, you messed up. The water pump might be spinning the wrong way. Note: If you don't have a good floor jack, you can jack up the car, place a support under the oil pan, then slowly lower the car until the engine is supported. In this case, jack-stands or blocks under the frame are a good idea to avoid lowering too far

These instructions are for the 3.1 L engine with serpentine belt. To change the belt, you need to remove the engine mount first. But before you do that, you must support the engine so it won't tilt after you remove the engine mount bolts. You would also need at least one helper. Here's step by step: 1. Use a jack and a long enough wooden block to cover the oil pan. Larger block will distribute the forces better. Don't use only a jack or a small block, it might crack the oil pan. Note: normally, you shouldn't lift engine by the oil pan, you should use an engine hoist, but carefully support with wooden block works. 2. Slowly raise the jack to support the engine. 3. Unscrew (Counter Clock Wise) the 2 bolts and 2 nuts of the engine mount. It's on the passenger side right next to the serpentine belt. 4. Loosen the tensioner bolt, and remove the old belt. You may have to raise the engine a bit to get a big enough gap to slide the belt through. 5. Put in the new belt and route it according to the diagram, you may have to leave it off one of the pulley because the tensioner is so tight. Don't worry, you'll slide it on later. 6. Put tighten the tensioner back on. Make sure the round metal pin goes in the appropriate slot. 7. Here's the hard part, putting the belt entirely on the pulleys. You have to either: a) Put a 3/8" ratchet in to the slot near the tension pulley that says "LIFT" and pull really hard to compress the spring, while putting the belt on the one of the pulley. Unless you are Arnold, you will need help. b) Pull a rope behind the tension pulley arm and pull while pushing with your left arm on the pulley arm to compress the spring; then get another person to hook the belt on one of the pulleys. 8. Put the engine mount back on. 9. Test run the engine to make sure you didn't mess up. Turn on accessories like A/C. If the temperature goes way up, you messed up. The water pump might be spinning the wrong way. Note: If you don't have a good floor jack, you can jack up the car, place a support under the oil pan, then slowly lower the car until the engine is supported. In this case, jack-stands or blocks under the frame are a good idea to avoid lowering too far