Well it told you the truth it did over heat,
and there are many causes, a
and 27 symptoms. besides. that.
that is if you trust the silly gauge..
is coolant low in the RADiator,, cap off , dead cold????????
that be like 1st. called checking real levels
the service manual tells you to do this 2 ways
1: the side expansion bolt full to full line.
2: and the RAD cap in the neck check. full of green AF
(green means your color of your AF)
then see if its still 50% antifreeze (AF), using the $2 Prestone tool. sold in all stores, measures ratio. of AF
the using and IR gun check the thermostat housing temp
180f or near?
use a scan tool does the ECT read 180F? live data scans.???
see 27 symptoms here.
http://jeepdied.com/overheated/overheated%20101.html
and cures.
and tests
will it overheat parked only> (rad fan test this is)
or only moving or only moving up hills
or only at stop lights,
when does it overheat and when not.
question 1
is your thermostat 20 years old
yes, then its NO GOOD.
The thermostat might be stuck and needing replaced, or the wire might be shorting out, more than likely it's going to be the thermostat
SOURCE: Jeep Grand Cherokee Service engine light soon on
A loose gas cap will sometimes trigger the service light to come on. Since this appears to have happened on multiple occasions I can assume that this is not the problem but may be associated with it. The level of gas in the tank affects the amount of atmospheric pressure in the tank. There are multiple things that could set off the light, one being a loose or defective gas cap, and the other is a fuel vapor return valve. I'm not sure of the exact type of fuel system you have so I cant give a more exact answer. If you wanted to give something a shot before bringing it into the shop, you can simply replace the gas cap first, a very cheap try.
SOURCE: Whining Noise
Hi, this sound is most likely coming from the power steering pump. I would first, check the power steering fluid level to see if it is full. if its not at the full mark, add some fluid. If the fluid reservoir is full upon inspection and the whining continues, the pump may be damaged and the pulley on the power steering pump could be slightly out of sync with the pump housing.
The second issue could be belt slippage. i would do a tension check on the drive belt and pulleys as well. make sure there isn't any ware and tare on the belt and make sure the tension is to specs.
Please rate and god bless:)
SOURCE: Gas Gauge Problems
You will have to get the error code before the engine light goes back off. You can do this by inserting the key into the ignition, then turning the key key to the on position three times with in 5 seconds. Remember this is the on position no the start position. Once you have done this the odometer will show the error codes briefly. They will look like this "P0202, P1225, P1400. Make sure you write them down because they can go pretty quickly. Once you have the codes go to the link listed below. It will give you a brief description of what the codes mean. If you need any thing else just let me know and I'll try to help.
The first link will have jeep specific codes, the second will be codes generic to all manufacturers. Just scroll down until you see the code listings.
Good luck.
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/
SOURCE: 96 jeep grand cherokee starts but wont idle
CHECK FUEL REGULATOR ON FUEL INJECTOR RAIL,&ALSO FUEL PUMP, CHARLIE
Hello! There is a sensor ground wire ...Color is Black/Light Blue (pin#4 of a 22 pin connector on the PCM which is sensor ground...That is the same wire multiple that feeds ground to the fuel pump unit (a variable resistor that senses whether the tank is full or empty)...When the vehicle heats up this ground which is more than likely corroded or rusted becomes resistive and opens...The vehicle has some years on it and it's not uncommon for ground straps to rust through,,,The gauge drops to empty...This tells the system; "I'm out of gas" and Sets the fuel level sensor signal to the PCM shutting down the engine...
Your going to need a multimeter (preferably digital) and a wee bit of experience using it...If your not up to this just send a comment and you can then take it to a mechanic and describe the problem specifically...
If you have a meter ( home improvement stores sell them for under $20)...Here are a couple of test procedures to narrow down and solve the problem...
There is a four wire connector that comes out of the top of the gas tank that may be to difficult to reach...Wire colors are...Black...Dark Green/Black...Black/Light Blue and...Light Blue/Yellow...The wire you are interested in is the "Black/Light Blue"...This is a chassis ground wire...There should be Ground straps on the frame...With the meter set on X10 ohms scale... Search under the vehicle for that section of wire harness comming out of the top of the gas tank that contains the above mentioned colors...When you find it ...push the point of a safety pin into the Black/Light Blue wire...Clip one meter probe to it and the other probe to bare metal chassis ground...Or make that probe wire long enough to touch the negative battery post...You must read zero ohms or very close to it...Record reading...Next clip one probe to bare metal chassis ground (a bare fender or firewall bolt...The other to the center of the negative battery post...Meter set the same...Record reading...Next move from chassis ground to the engine block (bare metal)...Record reading...Send results to Saailer
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867
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