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CAR WILL NOT START, HAD ALTERNATOR REPLACED, WORKED FOR 10 DAYS...DEAD AGAIN, THEY REPLACED BATTERY..3 WEEKS LATER, DEAD AGAIN. IN SHOP NOW AND I'M TOLD TO GET A STARTER CHARGER AND PLUG MY CAR IN AT NIGHT. THEY SAID I DON'T DRIVE ENOUGH. I HAVE 28,000 MILES AND DRIVE MY CAR MOST DAYS, BUT NOT VERY FAR. I'VE NEVER HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE. HELP.
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Remove negative cable from battery, connect a test light to negative terminal, opposite end off light to negative battery post. ( let sit for 3 to 5 minutes). Then start pulling fuses, when the light goes out that's your bad circuit. God-Bless! Its worth a try.
possible that the mechanic who sis not auto electrical qualified has damaged the alternator when fitting it of has fitted the wrong unit ( internal voltage regulation as opposed to external voltage regulation) take it to an accredited auto electrician for a bench test , have the voltage regulator tested and load test the battery as well
batteries can be defective for manufacture
You need to check if your alternator is charging. Buy a cheap volt meter from Harbor Freight for $3. The battery should normally have about 12.3 volts. When you crank the starter, it should drop down to about 10 volts. Once it starts, by jumping, it should go above 12.3, and as high as 13.5 when you rev the engine. If it never goes over 12.3, the batter will never get charges, and will eventually run down. But the alternator should have an automatic 12 month warranty. Take it back to them. And yes, running the windshield wipers will draw more current.
12 volt is actually a misnomer of sorts... it's actually closer to 13.8 volts i believe. if the voltage regulator is not working right you could very well be frying the battery. replacing it is the cost of the alternator + labour (unless you do it yourself).
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