Gauges and turn signals go out...not the fuses

turn signal switch failure wire harness-connections -module

It is probably the multi purpose switch

You said same socket, so it couldn't be a bad ground or then neither light would work. And you also said there is no power on the tail light wire at the socket? There should be voltage on the wire with park lights on. Find the rear tail harness. Somewhere there at the rear of the car the park light wire (the tail lights, running lights, all the same) will splice off to both sides of the car. You have passenger side lights, so you know the signal is good that far. Somewhere between the splice and the driver's side, the power is lost, maybe right at the splice. So find the harness, it will be either under the car along the frame, or inside the trunk. That's an old effin car, Howard. Are you sure you want to nurse it back to life? lol. Buy a Haynes manual for it - it will save you money in repairs. Good wiring diagrams, too.
Are those gauges in the instrument panel, and not aftermarket? If they are in the dash, I may know what it might be. I have an '87 Sentra. Fuel gauge, temperature gauge, and warning lights, and turn signals would only work intermittently. Car would start and run, but those things- sometimes not, or they would come on way after down the road. I traced it down to a faulty ignition relay in a relay block above the instrument fuse panel. The run wire out of the ignition switch trips this relay on, and it sends power to a portion of the fuse panel that has the fuses for the gauges and turn signal lights. Replacing the relay was the answer-they always work now. Your gauges may be similar, but almost as likely a loose connection somewhere.

Begin by checking fuses. Ignition, efi, fuel pump fuses. When key turned to on, do the warning lights and gauges work? That verifies switch has power and is sending power out. With key on, the coil primary wire to coil packs should have voltage.

No spark and no gas? Fuel pump fuse good? I think I would use a test light or multimeter to check that fuel pump fuse terminal has power to it with key on. If that's good, pull connector off at fuel tank and check for a voltage signal on fuel pump wire when the engine is cranking-if good signal, fuel pump needs taken out for replacement or inspection. If no signal check that fuel pump relay has power to it. With key off, pull the relay and check that one terminal has power to it-the feed wire for the pump. If no power signal at all, check maxi fuses or fusible links for a failure.

This problem usually is either the relay, fuse, or bulbs. To know if it is/isn't the relay, with the car on, turn on the turn signal and listen for clicking. If you hear it, then the relay is working. If you don't hear it, then the relay needs to be replaced. Very rarely the wiring is the cause. To test the wiring, get access to the fuse box for the turn signals. Grab a multimeter, take out the fuse, then insert leads into the opposing slots. Turn the meter on to DC voltage mode, then turn on the car and flick the turn signal on. You should see spikes whenever the turn signal turns on. If you don't see spikes, then the wiring or the bulbs is dead. Replace all the bulbs, then run the test again and if the meter still doesn't spike, then you need to check all the wires for cracks or melting. If you have to replace wires, install the same gauge wire as was previously there. Use a wire stripper to get a good judge of the gauge.

Both? A 7.5A "Gauge" fuse provides power for the oil press, temp, volt, and the solenoid coil for the rear window relay. The actual power for the rear window comes from somewhere else probably the 30A Power CB.

The turn signals use a small relay for the flash, it's located in the interior fuse panel under the dash (small metal/plastic can)...it's the only thing in the fuse panel that's not a fuse.

They're a few dollars at Autozone and easy to replace.

The short/overload killing the dash gauges will be a bit harder to troubleshoot...Do the gauges die with the parking lights, or only after the switch is all the way out to headlights?

you should pull out the gauge cluster and check the connector on the back side of the cluster.. i bet that is the issue

the flasher relay is a aluminum cylinder relay on the fuse panel. It's the shiny one.

Fuse and/or dash panel relay