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The inner tie rod ends are on the other end of the same rod as the outer tie rod ends. They should connect to the drag link and look almost identical to the outer tie rod ends. Hope this helps.
Here are the tie rod end nut torque specs:
• Lower Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 129 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Upper Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 140 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs
• Inner Tie Rods - 81 ft-lbs
• Outer Tie Rods - (Knuckle Stud) Tie Rod nut 44 ft-lbs and jam nut 55 ft-lbs
• Stabilizer Links - 17 ft-lbs
• Rear Shocks - Lower and Upper 85 ft-lbs
• Front Shocks - Module Bolt x2 37 ft-lbs, Module nut x3 37 ft-lbs and Stud nut 37 ft-lbs
Inner tie rods rarely if ever need to be replaced in my experience: outer tie rod ends are far more common. Its not impossible so here's how.
1. remove the tie rod ends from the knuckle. 2. remove the clamp for the rubber bellows on the rack ends, and slide the bellows down the rod. 3. Turn the rack to fullleft or right as needed to get access to the inner rod end that screws into the rack. 4. There's a lock tab that has to be bent flat. This locks the rod end into the rack. 5. You'll need a (probably) 32mm wrench to undo the rod end from the rack. 6. Note how the lock tab is fitted to the rack/rod end.
7. Put in the new tie rods.
If your garage mechanic told you the inner tie rods are worn out, I'd ask why they think so. At step 4. above, try rotating the rod. This should be quite difficult. There should be NO evidence of slop or wear in the inner joint. What more commonly wears is the bushes on the end of the rack. These bushes are easily replacable with the rack in the car.The tie rods have to be removed to do this. So, when the rods are off, inspect the rack bushes for wear.
webbraymond2, Yes, you have to remove the outer tie to access the inner tie rod. When you do this, count the rotations of the tie rod as this will have to be replaced when the new inner tie rod is installed. Counting the rotations will allow you to put the outer tie rod close to where it was when you started the job. You are changing the toe setting when you have to replace either the inner or outer tie rod. You need to access and remove the jamb nut and boot before you can access the inner tie rod and this is why the outer needs to be removed first. A wheel alignment is advised after you finish the job. Good luck with this.
Yes, there is an inner tie rod end wrench, there are a few different types of wrenches available. You should be able to borrow one from one of your local parts stores. (Oreillys, Auto Zone, Napa, etc..)
Depending if power/streeing or manuel/streeing.
Inner tie rod $50.00 - $150.00 each part only.
outer tie rod $30.00 - $75.00 each part only.
labor 1.0 flag rate on outer tie rod per side.
labor 1.3 flag rate on inner tie rod per side.
Flag rate X shops hourly rate = labor cost.
first take the outer tierod off of the spindle tthen take the boot loose from the rack and try to break the inner tie rod loose make sure when replacing the inner tierod that you count number of times you turn it wel unscrewing the outer tie rid you will need to get a alinment perform after you replace that tierod.
If you have electric steering(no power steering pump)you have to change the entire steering gear assembly as no part is available.If you have the system with a pump a part is available.In order to change the inner tie rod you would loosen the 21mm lock nut on the tie rod.remove the 18mm nut on the outer tie rod and spin off after removing the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle.Remove the nut and the inner and outer clamps on the tie rod boot.remove the boot.You would then need a special inner tie rod tool to turn the threaded inner rod from the steering gear.
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