2004 Volkswagen Passat Logo

Related Topics:

K
Kevin corbeille Posted on Nov 19, 2016

Power steering pump noise on a 2004 vw Passat. Replaced with rebuilt one still made noise

Keep getting air in system after bleeding and driving. No leaks in system

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 883 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 21, 2008

SOURCE: vw passat 2000 1.8t front wheel drive

please rate me solved...thanks

DTC P0411/16795: SECONDARY AIR SYSTEM - INCORRECT FLOW DETECTED
Test Requirements
Ensure all fuses are okay, battery voltage is at least 11.5 volts, all electrical accessories are off, A/C is off.
Ensure engine is mechanically sound.
Test Procedure

NOTE
Secondary air system is activated by ECM and blows air into exhaust pipe
upstream of catalytic converter for 100 seconds during a cold start, 41-91°F (5-
33°C). Engine must be cold to perform following test procedure.

1. Ensure fuse and secondary fuse (secondary fuse is 40 amp and is located in fuse holder on top of battery)
are okay. Check hoses and components of Secondary Air Injection System, for damage, loose fit and
improper installation, check vacuum hoses for Secondary Air Injection System. Repair as necessary.
Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. If DTC does not reset, test is complete. Perform ECM relearn
procedure. See TEST DRIVE RELEARN PROCEDURE .
2. Remove engine cover. Disconnect pressure hose from Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101), by pressing
buttons on hose connector. See Fig. 33 . Using scan tool, check Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) in
scan tool Output Diagnostic Test Mode (Secondary Air Pump Relay activation mode). See OUTPUT
DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE .
3. Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) should run in intervals and air should exit pump at hose connection.
If Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) is okay, go to step 7 . If motor runs and no air exits secondary air
pump motor, replace faulty Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101). Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. Test
is complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure. See TEST DRIVE RELEARN PROCEDURE . If
secondary air pump motor does not run, go to next step.
4. Disconnect Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) harness connector, install LED test light at secondary air
pump harness connector terminals. Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, activate Secondary Air Pump Motor
(V101) in scan tool Output Diagnostic Test Mode (Secondary Air Pump Relay activation mode). See
OUTPUT DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE . LED test light at Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) harness
connector should flash. If LED test light at Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) harness connector does
not flash, go to next step. If LED test light at Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) harness connector
flashes, replace faulty Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101). Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. Test is
complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure. See TEST DRIVE RELEARN PROCEDURE .
5. Using DVOM check resistance of Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) wiring. See appropriate WIRING
DIAGRAM under ENGINE PERFORMANCE in SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS. Resistance should
be a maximum of 1.5 ohms for each reading. Check wiring for short circuit to one another in Secondary
Air Pump Motor (N101) harness connector. Repair as necessary. Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. Test
is complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure.
Secondary Air Pump Motor (N101) wiring is okay, go to next step.
6. Check Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) and Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) wiring. See DTC
P0418/16802: SECONDARY AIR PUMP RELAY (J299), MALFUNCTION . Repair or replace as
necessary. Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. Test is complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure. See
TEST DRIVE RELEARN PROCEDURE .
7. Disconnect vacuum hose from Secondary Air Injection Valve (N112) and disconnect pressure hose from
secondary air pump motor, press buttons on pressure hose connector to disconnect pressure hose. See Fig.
34 . Blow lightly into disconnected pressure hose, Combi-Valve should be closed. Connect hand vacuum
pump to disconnected vacuum hose and apply vacuum to Combi-Valve, Combi-Valve should open. If
Combi-Valve opens when vacuum is applied, Combi-Valve is okay. Go to next step. If Combi-Valve
does not open when vacuum is applied, replace faulty Combi-Valve. Erase DTC memory. Verify repair.
Test is complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure. See TEST DRIVE RELEARN PROCEDURE .
8. Check Secondary Air Injection Valve (N112). See DTC P0412/16796: SECONDARY AIR
INJECTION VALVE (N112), ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION . Repair as necessary.
Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. Test is complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to check Combi-Valve.
2000 Volkswagen Passat GLS
2000 ENGINE PERFORMANCE Self-Diagnostics - 1.8L Turbo

Ad

Anonymous

  • 1027 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 07, 2008

SOURCE: bleeding brakes

Simple way - takes 2 people. Get a small jar, and fill it part way with some brake fluid. Then use a short length of hose (one that fits snugly over the bleed screw), and keep one end in the brake fluid. With the engine off, loosen the bleed screw, and have the brake pedal slowly depressed. Close the bleed screw BEFORE releasing the brake pedal, and repeat until no air bubbles come out the hose. Top up the brake reserve with fluid.

Anonymous

  • 9 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 14, 2009

SOURCE: Bleed cooling system

Assuming you have already filled your cooling system with the proper G12 coolant to the cross-hatch level, open the coolant overflow/fill bottle cap. Leave it off. Start the car and let it idle. Turn your heater on full hot and full fan speed. Let it come up to temp so the thermostat opens up and allows coolant to flow through your system. When the system burps, you'll see air bubbles show up in the overflow tank. Let it cycle a another time and then top off the coolant if needed. Then close up the cap and call it a day.

JIMMY

  • 1374 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 18, 2010

SOURCE: P0411 code 99 Passat

The secondary Air Injection system, this is basically an inspect and replace broken hose detail. Leave the inlet hose disconnected and start the engine. Listen and feel for exhaust hissing at the check valves.The check valve(s) will make like a gurgling sound as air is drawn in However , if exhaust is felt or heard replace the valve. Hope this works out for ya.

Anonymous

  • 3085 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 05, 2010

SOURCE: 2003 VW Passat Power Steering Fluid

There is a tank under the hood with a STEERING WHEEL icon on it. DON"T OVERFILL and use only PENTOSIN

Testimonial: "Very easy to fix with your advice and expertise."

Ad

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Bleed power steering

Bleeding a power steering pump is just a matter of turning slowly lock to lock several times and keeping an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir.
0helpful
1answer

Power steering pump replacement

Your going to have noises and fluid drop when you first do this project there is air in the system have you turned the steering wheel several times left to right while running to bleed the air and re check fluid level?
0helpful
2answers

Had a noise and Honda said it was power steering pump. Had no problems with steering. Took it in two days ago and they rebuilt the power steering pump. Now no noise but power steering is intermittent. They...

BS, I doubt they "rebuilt" the pump. Maybe they resealed it? IF it needs anew pump, no problem ask them to credit the money you spent on the misdiagnosis and uneeded "rebuild" that they sold you. Check the reservoir for the PS fluid if its FOAMY its getting air in it, and there is a leak on the suction side somewhere. Usually the o-ring on the inlet to the pump. Be sure the belt is tight.
1helpful
1answer

Passat 1998,4cylinders, turbo, what is the belt routing diagram, the power steeling belt is related with the water pump or not, thank you

The ancillary belts routing diagram for a 1998 VW Passat 1.8 Turbo

tdisline_822.jpg
AC = Air Conditioning
CS = Crankshaft
F = Fan pulley
G = Generator
PAS = Power Assisted Steering
T = Tensioner pulley
WP = Water Pump

1. Viscous coupling removal (lock the viscous coupling).

tdisline_823.jpg

2. Lock the ancillary drive belt tensioner.

tdisline_825.jpg

3. Lock the coolant pump.

tdisline_826.jpg
4. Remove the coolant pump drive belt.
5. Remove the ancillary drive belt.
6. Release the A/C tensioner if vehicle is equipped with A/C (Air Conditioning).
7. Remove the A/C compressor drive belt.
2helpful
3answers

Power steering pump replaced, start to work ok, after 10 milles driving, steering wheel is hard, like pump is not working, under hood everything look ok.

YOU HAVE AIR IN THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM.YOU NEED TO BLEED POWER STEERING PUMP FIRST BEFORE DRIVING VECHICLE.CHECK POWER STEERING FLUID LEVEL ADD MORE POWER STEERING UNTIL REACH FULL COLD MARK..RAISE VECHICLE FRONT WHEELS OFF THE GROUND.START ENGINE LET IT IDLE WHILE TURNING STEERING WHEEL LEFT TO RIGHT NON STOP DONT LOCK OR STOP STEERING WHEEL KEEP TURNING IT SEVERAL TIMES CHECK POWER STEERING FLUID IF LOW ADD UNTIL YOU GET COLD MARK ON DIP STICK DONT OVER FILL POWER STEERING PUMP BLOW A SEAL.IF POWER STEERING FLUID LOOK TAN COLOR SYSTEM FULL OF AIR.TURN OFF IGNITION LET CAR SET FOR A WHILE CHECK FLUID LEVEL.IF STEERING WHEEL FEEL STIFF HARD TURNING DONT DRIVE CAR UNTIL YOU HAVE NORMAL STEERING.IF STILL HAVE AIR IN SYSTEM BLEED SYSTEM UNTIL AIR IS OUT.
0helpful
1answer

I replace the power steering pump on my volkswagen passat 2001 and is making kind of squealing

The noise is probably caused from air in the steering system. To bleed the air out of the system, start the engine and turn the steering wheel back and forth slowly, but do not turn it all the way to the steering stops. Continue to do this for several minutes. The air will slowly bleed out of the system. If that doesn't stop the noise, then it could be the belt slipping.
3helpful
3answers

My power steering pump makes a growling noise even when the car is idle. The noise is louder when I turn the steering wheel. The power steering fluid has gotten low a couple of times and gets foamy.

if gets low definitely a leak foam is pump mixing fluid with air roar is pump cavitation check lines or pump for leak keep fluid at recommended level air bound unit can cause steering difficulty and or failure if need have trained mech look into problem
1helpful
2answers

Just had power steering pump, ball joints and rack & pinion repla

the pump may have air trapped inside, sometimes it will bleed itself out. if after several days it doesnt go away, have the shop that replaced it, ck it, it may be a bad rebuilt pump??
1helpful
2answers

Steering Noise

Power steering noise When the fluid is low and you add some ... it still needs more after you run it for awhile. The reason for that is that the pump pumps the fluid through the lines and gets out the air in them. Keep filling and checking after you start the car and turn the wheel from side to side all the way.

  • The bigger question is why do you need to add fluid? After you locate and fix that leak, you can address the whine. If it is a Ford, it may be somewhat normal. Like Drazi said, "It may be air trapped in the line." Or the pump may be damaged from running it dry, or there is blge in the line, starving the pump. Let's assume you have kept up on the maintenance and have flushed the fluid when it was dirty. Let's also assume that the pump is not damaged and you have found and fixed any leaks. Try this: pull the fluid out of the reservior and add one bottle of Lucas brand power steering additive, and top with power steering fluid. I have found this stuff pretty good at resolving many power steering problems. I'm not a big supporter of "Snake Oil", but have had good luck with it.

  • well" if it's a ford it's because they use plastic parts in there casing's. most other car company's do the same. if that's not the case, then your pump is reciving too much stress from turning. try lubing up the chasis and changing the fluid completly. it wouldnt hurt to check your line's ether. sometime's blockage can cause too much stress on the pump too.

  • First thing is why are you adding
fluid. If it has a leak then i would address that problem first. A pump will not bleed out if it is leaking. If every thing seems to be okay and your pump still whines. Then replace the pump. Note my advice is replace the pump with a new one from the dealer. These so called rebuilt pumps that you buy from places like autozone o'rielys ect.. Are cheaply rebuilt. Especialy if it's a ford. They don't bleed out right improper pump pressures. A good pump will bleed out almost imediatly.With the turn of the wheel a few times. If it doesn't then your pump will more than likely never completly bleed out. Buy a pump from the dealer it cost more but if your like me and don't like the noise then it's worth it.

  • You probably have air trapped in the system. Bleed the air out by revving the engine to about 1500-2000 rpms and turning the steering wheel almost all the way from one side to the other a few times. This should bleed out the air and take care of your problem.

  • If the noise is similar to that of a dry bearing, then the problem probably revolves around the power-steering pump itself. If the noise you hear has a "click, click, click" to it when making turns in your vehicle, then the problem is more-than-likely your CV joints. If the noise is screeching, check your belt for wear-and-tear and proper tension (see owner's manual).
I just wanted to add another two cents about the topic of bleeding or burping the power-steering system:
1. Know what type of power-steering fluid is needed for your car. Some power-steering pumps can use automatic transmission fluid, others have specific power-steering fluid for each car i.e. Honda requires and suggests that you use Honda's brand power-steering fluid (see owner's manual). Make sure you know, or the warranty from the dealership or from the parts store may be voided.
2. Before attaching the power-steering belt, fill pump with required amount and type of fluid, (see owner's manual) and turn the pulley wheel by hand a few times. This helps cut down on dry turns before they can happen. If more power-steering fluid is needed fill accordingly.
3. Attach the power-steering belt with proper amount of tension (see owner's manual).
4. Turn vehicle on and proceed to turn the steering-wheel all-the-way right and left 3-4 times.
5. Turn the vehicle off and examine that the belt tension is acceptable, and again check the level of fluid and fill accordingly.
6. Always, always check your owner's manual before performing any maintenance on your vehicle. An educated car owner is a safe car owner!





Another possibility How long has the pump run without fluid for? There could be damage inside to the cam an rotor (assuming it's is a vane type pump), to the plates or it could be cavitating due to the ingress of air - possibly why the fluid leaked out in the first place.

www.powerbrakeandsteering.co.za
Not finding what you are looking for?

314 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Volkswagen Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Bradley
Bradley

Level 2 Expert

105 Answers

Thomas Perkins
Thomas Perkins

Level 3 Expert

15088 Answers

Are you a Volkswagen Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...