Dear James,
I suspect you have a shorted out wire, either from a car wreck, or a pinched wire, or a bad socket.
You may eventually have to run a new wire from the fuse box to the light to bypass the problem, since a short could be anywhere from the front to the rear.
If the light itself is shorted, replacements are available, either from a dealer, on Amazon, at a salvage yard, or on e-bay.
God bless your efforts.
Earth is there because it blows fuses
faulty relay
if ok
would check the drivers parking bulb holders front and rear
moisture , corrosion , bare wire to earth
a maybe
parking lights on/ off switch
SOURCE: T100 tail lights & dash light keep blowing fuses
If this vehicle has a trailer harness, that could be the problem; it could be shorted out. Additionally, if there is no trailer harness, look under the truck bed at the rear, look for a grey wiring connector that wires come out of, and run to the taillamps. I have observed corrrosion in this connector, which will result in a short circuit. You may find it necessary to cut the connector out and resplice the wires back together (eliminate the connector), if severe corrosion is indeed present.
SOURCE: tail lights and dash lights keep blowing fuse when you start it
you have a short somewhere, unplug the tail lamps one at a time and see if the fuse still blows. if you disconnect one and the fuse does not blow and everything else works, the problem is in the tail light assembly. if not, the short is most likely in the wiring harness which can be a bit tricky to diagnose. alldata.com/diy offers one year subscriptions to cars with all the repair info and they have excellent wiring schematics. dont forget to try the front marker lamps in addition to the tail lamps.
SOURCE: Blows fuses when parking lights are turned on. Headlights work fine even running lights.
If it only happens when you turn the switchto the parking lights then it is most likely the swich that is the problem. Light swich failure appears to be a common fault with fords
SOURCE: Park/Tail lights not working. Brake/signals are
Before going ahead and spending money on a new module, test it first. The module is located under the steering column. You'll find a Brown wire on one of the connectors (i just looked at a wire diagram). Do no disconnect anything. Back probe the brown wire, which is the power feed to your park lights. With the lights off, there should be 0 volts on you voltmeter. Turn the park lamps on, There should be 12V. If there is not 12V, disconnect the connector and try to check voltage at the pin that feeds to the brown wire, if still not 12V, replace the module. If you do get 12V, then module is ok, find where the 12v is being dropped before making it to the lamps.
SOURCE: 00 hyundai accent, wont start light on dash with
Could be as simple as a blown fuse for the ETACS module, but it sounds more like a problem with the anti theft immobilizer system. Does your car have remote keyless entry? And is the key you are using a factory key or one someone made? (factory key will be encased in bulky black plastic with hyundai logo) The transponder in the key might have worn out and is not talking to the car anymore. Some hyundais use the radio antenna to receive the signal, is there an antenna on the car? Is it hooked up? If it is a problem with the key and immobilizer system, It will unfortunately need towed to a dealer and reprogrammed.
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