I have a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer I was trying to put my rack and pinion and I wanted to know what type of tool to take those two bolts that hold in the rack and pin to the subframe off it seems

Put the vehicle on jack stands first. Then you pull the tie rod ends loose from the spindles on each side. There is 2 bolts that hold the rack and pinion to the subframe that you remove and it'll drop far enough that you can undo the powersteering lines and pull it out.

Why do you want to change the rack and plnion? The rack and pinion is designed to last the life of the vehicle. It is however possible that something does go wrong, and in this event a COMPETENT person should check it over. It is a safety risk. It seems the guy you took it to is NOT.

undo the steering shaft at the rack. remove the tie rod ball joints from the steering arms . Undo any hydraulic hoses ensuring you tag each hose to replace it in the correct position. Undo the bolts holding the rack to the frame. You may have to remove a wheel to facilitate removing the rack side ways out of the space.

After removing the pinch bolt and nut it is usually necessary to tap in a small chisel or large screwdriver to open up the slot sufficient for removal. Sometimes burrs hold components together and sometimes there is a corrosion bond so a squirt of penetrating oil is a good idea too.

Yes, it has rack and pinion steering

Unless the rack and pinion gears are slipping (jumping a cog), then try putting oil on the universal joint in the steering column just above the rack & pinion. Two mechanics wanted to change the rack & pinion for $900 or the "Yoke" (whatever that is) but a generous squirt of oil on the U jont fixed the problem for my 2002 Camry!

Removing the rack and pinion assembly from a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Se To get the old rack and pinion off of the car for replacement involves lowering the sub-frame, removing the stabilizer bar, and pulling the rack out from the driver side of the vehicle.

• Start by lifting or jacking up the car and removing the front wheels. Once the car is safely supported, disconnect both tie rods from the steering knuckles.
• The rear motor mount sits on top of the cross-member part of the sub-frame, and must be disconnected to allow the sub-frame to drop a few inches. Remove the three bolts attaching it to the center of the sub-frame - one in the back and two in the front near the back of the transmission.
• Loosen the two bolts holding the front of the sub-frame. Place a scissor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the sub-frame where the bolt for the motor mount was. Remove the two smaller bolts from each side of the rear of the sub-frame (total 4 bolts) and then loosen the two remaining larger bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame (these bolts go through the rear control arm bushings and are very long) until the bolts are only going through the control arm bushing, and not into the chassis. You do not need to remove these completely.
• Remove the stabilizer links from both sides.
• Next you must disconnect the steering linkage. This is done easily by lifting up the rubber boot to expose the small bolt holding the linkage. Remove the bolt and pry the linkage upward using a pry tool or screw driver.
• Near the passenger side of the crossmember, remove the bolt holding the power steering line bracket to the chassis. You may now begin to lower the sub-frame using the jack. The front bolts should have lowered the sub-frame about a half-inch or so, allowing you to lower the back of the sub-frame 3 or 4 inches.
• With the sub-frame lowered, you can now access the bolts holding the stabilizer bar in place. The right side has a nut screwed onto the top of it holding the power steering lines, remove this first, then remove both bolts. Pry or pull the stabilizer brackets up and out. Remove the stabilizer bar.
• Now you can get to both of the bolts holding the rack in place. Remove both of these, then begin to slide the rack toward the driver side wheel well until there is no more slack in the power steering lines. At this point you should be able to get to the nuts securing the lines on the rack. Loosen both nuts and be ready with something to cap the ends with. I used part of a plastic bag and a wire to tie it. You can now pull the rack out through the driver side.
• Be sure to replace the rubber o-rings on the ends of the lines when putting the new rack in. Replace everything in the reverse order. Put your tie rods on the new rack, making sure to count the turns or make a mark or measure to be sure your tie rods end up close to the same length as before.
• Bleed the power steering system.

Important: Get an alignment! Not only is it dangerous to drive with your steering out of align but it will also grate the tread off your tires in a matter of weeks or even days.

Silverados do not have rack and pinion steering. The steering box is bolted to the frame on the drivers side, that can be removed by removing the bolts holding it on, the steering shaft bolts, and the pitman arm.

dont hold it,i personally bang the fan clutch nut with a long chicel and hammmer.it sounds funny but works great.do it before taking belt off.

Ok get ready for a real headache. To change that head gasket you will have to have a lift, some special tools and about 20 hours( for a trained mechanic). It involves removing the rack and pinion steering, oil pan, all of the parts off of the front of the engine, and timing cover. Then the fun begins. That engine has no timing marks on the outside of the engine. You will have to pull the exaust, and intake manifolds, valve cover and coils. Roll the motor by hand till you get all the timing marks lined up han then you can remove the head. If you are not a trained mechanic, you are really getting a tough one to start on. You will need a manuel on all the specs, Good Luck