My mechanic replaced my front struts with an after market strut without the CAT system wires and plugs and now I get the CAT system failure light.

Struts have as their main feature to provide a compact, relatively cheap mechanism of wheel alignment as opposed to serious spring dampening. It is difficult to know what any driver might call "rough" in a ride and many variables to consider: road surface, tire aspect ratio, inflation, even vehice make and model. The only thing that could be suggested without considerably more detail, including
"ride" before the strut replacement; reason for the replacement; comparable car the complaint is based on; tire brand as size; and the like, would be to recommend a tires with lower aspect ration (taller side walls for flexing) within the range compatiable the struts.

He's probably talking about upper strut mounts/bearing plates or the rubber bumpstops under them. Either way, the strut assemblies have to be removed and dis-assembled to replace them. So he is probably figuring on replacing these items as well as the struts themselves, since everything is already apart. unless the van has very, very low miles. I would double check the front sway bar links though. These cause noise on bumps similar to a strut mount, and are notorious for premature failure. Moog makes them with grease fittings to get batter life. Both sides can usually be replaced for around $250 for parts and labor. When I do have one with bad strut mounts, I usually go ahead and figure worst case. I figure struts, upper mounts/bearing plates, bump-stops and bellows, and the sway bar links on any T&C with over 60K. Usually runs between $750 - $850 for parts and labor (including alignment) with a labor rate of $74.50 per hour. If it is your struts and not just the sway bar links, you can drive it for a while before they have to be replaced. Another option is complete strut assemblies from Monroe or KYB. They are completely assembled with all new parts and you can bolt them in youself to save come money. It takes all the specialty tools out of the job. This can be accomplished at home with simple hand tools in the driveway! Either way, check the sway bar links. If in doubt, replace them.

You can fit standard struts and simply unplug the suspension control unit. You would need to change all 4 corners, i suggest spending a little bit more and getting either Bilsten or Koni struts and eibach brand coil springs, it will give the best suspension setup and the total cost for the lot would be less than the cost of one new strut, Also keep in mind that these fail and if you replace one then it's likely that another will fail in the near future.

I have 06 daytona with same problem clunking noise front passinger side Master Mechanic's checked steering and suspension components could not find the source. Problem is that sometimes noise stops then comes back. I will try to find the source myself tomorrow let you know what I find.

1992 Toyota Celica is not equipped with front "shocks". This vehicle is equipped with front wheel drive and independent MacPherson strut front suspension. Any repairs made to this system requires the removal of the entire strut assembly, which includes the strut, the coil spring and upper strut bearing assembly.

Replacement of any of the parts of the strut assembly requires the use of specialized equipment designed to compress and hold the coil spring to relieve the tension on the strut and upper bearing assembly.




Any attempt to disassemble the strut assembly without the proper equipment for compressing and securely holding the coil spring can result in SERIOUS INJURY or DEATH.

One needs a special tool called a 'spring compressor' to compress the front strut spring enough to remove the nut on the strut. Very dangerous without the tool. Must use the spring compressor to service the strut assembly, or get a loaded strut/spring assembly to replace old strut assembly.

Good luck on this.

I belive you talking about strut tower bushing.
Yes you can replace it without repl. strut , but you have to take strut apart. Very common on Toyota's.
You need a strut compressor for this job.

yes, must not let the strut shaft turn or you can unscrew the shaft from the piston internally resulting in a failed strut. Depending on miles it is probally better idea to replace strut and mount as these are common failures along with broken spring.

It sounds like the mechanic may have left the upper strut nut a bit loose, you may want to ask him to check it, but be nice, Toyota had some problems with upper strut mounts. These are on the top of the strut, they hold them to the body of the car. Unfortunately you have to remove and disassemble the struts to replace them. You could try asking your mechanic to just replace the one side and try it. I'm pretty sure that's your problem and he may give you a break since he's done all the other work. There is also a bulletin on a rattle from the side view mirror, but I think since this just started with the strut job, the mount is your most likely cause.
Google: toyota upper strut mount rattle

As far as driving without having a front end alignment done AFTER the strut replacement, you should head to a shop and have a front end alignment done. You MAY notice some vibrating or tire wear if not taken care of.

Looking at your struts online, the boot comes with the struts. All you have to do is drop yours and replace with the new!