My car was running. I bypassed the relay for the A/C compressor to turn on the engine stopped running.Did not start again, checked for fuse, found one blown, Put fuse in, blew that fuse too.

Check and make sure that the level control lever that goes to your shocks was reconnected. Might have been overlooked....Hope this helps.

Is the compressor good?
Thanks,
Lee

Make sure the electric cooling fan(s) for the radiator are working.
TEST- anytime the air conditioning compressor kicks in, so should the cooling fans. Locate the a/c compressor on the engine, it's belt driven. Start the car and with the engine running observe the face of the belt pully on the compressor while an assistant turns on the a/c in the car (defrost feature on your heater control will also cycle on the compressor). You'll be looking to see that the front of the compressor pully starts spinning when the a/c or defrost is engaged. When that pully starts spinning the radiator fans are supposed turn on at the same time. If you see the compressor engage but the fan doesn't you have a blown cooing fan fuse, bad fan motor or a bad fan motor relay. If there is something wrong that your compressor isn't engaging in a/c or defrost and the fuses are ok, you're going to have to check the fan motor and relay by different means. You can disconnect the wiring plug to the fan motor. This is where you see if you can spin the fan blades by hand. It should spin very easily. If it is hard to spin or is siezed up, you found the problem. If the blades spin easily- direct jump current to the fan motor off the battery. If the fan doesn't work, replace it. If the fan works, check the relay. Locate the fan relay and look for another relay in the panel that is EXACTLY like it. WE WANT- another relay that is exactly the same BUT NOT critical for engine or a/c operation. We also want to know that whatever feature this candidate relay supplies power to is verified as functional. Swap the relays. If the fan still doesn't engage, check the function that you borrowed the relay from and verify THAT works with your original a/c relay in it. If you lost that function, try the proceedure with a 3rd relay if possible. Again check and recheck functions you borrowed the relay from. If you still get nothing, put the relays back to original placement. If you still are getting nothing from the fan and the other 2 functions, then the panel is toasting relays and you need either run the problem down or get the car into a professional. Now- if the fan won't engage but the other functions that you borrowed relay(s) from are still operational, we're going to give the relays a passing grade and it would seem you've got an electrical issue that, again, you need to run down or defer your efforts to a professional. Good luck on your endeavor.

If your check engine light is on you usually have a code. Where I live several auto part stores will read the code for free. It would help to have a code.
If you have 2 fans on the radiator one should come on when you turn the A/C on. The other fan come on when engine reaches engine operating temperature. You have relay for compressor and the fan motor. Does the inside fan stop blowing. If a fuse was blown they should not work at all but a relay could drop out and in. I have found a bad relay over the years by checking the temperature of the relays, it is not always the case.. I have had a couple relays which were a lot hotter than the others, helped identify the bad relay. you can get the relay checked at the auto parts store. The low pressure switch could be creating problems with low Freon pressure. some info fuse relay below.
http://www.autogenius.info/chevrolet-cobalt-2005-2010-fuse-box-diagram/

Probably the high pressure switch on the accumulator - try disconnecting the connector and jumping the pins to see if the clutch will engage. If that is the problem, DO NOT leave it jumped - replace the switch.
If that is not the problem, you will have to check the clutch wiring, relay and fuse for continuity back to the HVAC controls. If that is OK, the problem will probably be in your HVAC control module.

if the orifice is clogged the a/c compressor should, with motor running, kick in when you turn on a/c. it will run for 30 to 45 seconds, pulling down engine VERY slightly but noticeable. then the high pressure switch will activate and compressor will stop. if its not completely clogged it will run loger, even a few mins and maybe start to cool a little. when pressure drops enough it will start again and should do same thing over & over. if compressor never starts running it may be a fuse or relay or low on freon. it has a low pressure cutoff also and will not operate under low press, just like high press. cutoff wont let it run with too much. so a cycling compressor that pulls engine down would be proof of clogged orifice

• Under the hood in the relay panel will be a relay for the compressor. When you locate the relay box look on the underside of the lid for the legend (layout) of the relays. Pulling that relay will stop the compressor from turning on.
• You can also just unhook the connector on the compressor and secure it to stop the compressor from turning on.
• If you need the compressor clutch to not turn at all, like if the bearings are bad, then you need to buy a smaller belt to bypass the compressor all together.

• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Could be bad AC clutch relay. Just replaced mine ($11 at autozone). It is located in the relay box just behind the battery.

Resolution:
The problem turned out to be a blown fuse labelled EBL Clutch, located in the instrument console (side panel in the dashboard next to steering wheel on a RHD model).

I downloaded the manuals of the Neon and it advised a sequence of checks to be done:
1. Test High Pressure switch located on compressor - check that the switch w/o/ cable gives a closed reading, then test with bypass in cable.
2. Test Low pressure switch located on accumulator, ( I could not find this switch). Bypass of this switch should engage the compressor clutch
3. I discovered the blown fuse when trying to activate the rear window heater and saw that the light on the switch did not activate - went looking for the fuse for this device and then found the EBL Clutch, really by accident. Shows you how confusing an abbreviated label on a fuse can be and that it does not always support the significance of it.

Other observations:
1. A/C compressor cannot run non-stop and must be controlled by the A/C controller. Hard wiring the clutch and running the engine for a few minutes led to the compressor shuddering and then discharging some gas through the saftefy valve. Normally this power supply would have been interrupted by the high pressure valve.
2. Release of coolant gas from the high pressure safety valve located on the compressor may indicate a faulty high pressure switch, but the primary or underlying reason may be due to a blocked Dryer in the A/C system.
3. The Daimler Mercedes Neon Agents, and an A/C company and an auto electrical company all attended unsuccessfully to this problem. No discredit meant in any way, it just shows that the incorrect label here makes solving such an ordinary problem very problematic. If any advice can be given to the Agents, read the manual.