Question about 1997 Honda Civic
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
1.6L Engines Firing order: 1-3-4-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise.
I hope help you with this, remember rated this post. Good luck.
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks, runs like a charm, now!"
Alright, let's just jump right into it. Get down and low and at the front of your center console you'll find two clips holding it in. There's one on the driver's side and one on the passenger side.
Okay so now how the *#$@ do I remove those clips? If you pull they don't come out...and if you pry you'll just scratch your console. Here's how: Look carefully and you'll see the center is a little circle. Gentley push it in...voila..off it pops. Repeat this for the other side. 2.
Alright now it's time to head to the back. You should recline your seats all the way forward and slide them up front. This will give you plenty of room to work. Get down low and you'll see a screw holding the back in -- once again you'll find it on both sides.
Simply take your Phillips head screwdriver to the ****** and unscrew it on both sides. 3.
Look carefully and you're going to see that the top of your center console is comprised of two pieces. One that stretches from the front of the console to just behind the shift boot. The second piece stretches from there to the back of the console.
The second piece is what we're going to remove. Here's how to do it. It's only held down by a few clips so all you need to do is pry it up. So whip out your flat head screw driver, or other prying device along with a cloth to prevent your crazy @$$ from prying up the plastic too. Start and the back and pry it up. 4.
You can theoretically now just pull the whole thing straight up. However what I found to be easier was to pry up one side and get your fingers underneath then pull from left to right (or vice versa) to pop off the front clips. The front clips tend to be in stiffer than the ones around the side and rear.
*POP* The entire center piece should now be free! 5.
Now you're able to lift the piece straight up.
Simply slide the piece up and forward taking care not to scratch anything 6.
Alright you'll probably discover you can't quite get it past the brake lever.
Yup...excellent deduction Sherlock..the gear shifter seems to be in the way. 7.
Alright time to move out of the way Mister Gear Shifter
Slide that baby into 1st gear (Make sure you didn't lower your hand brake!!!) 8.
It's free! Now you have room to work!
Okay now that the gear shift is in first...you have room to carefully slide the piece forward and out without scratching anything. So now that you have the rear piece off, you want to remove the front piece right?
Well as you can see here, all that's holding it in place are these two screws on this panel. Take your mighty Phillips head screwdriver and go buck-wild on those two screws
You've now successfully removed everything that's been holding the center console down.You should now be able to slide the center console back and forth. There you should be able to remove it now..and you should see this
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
hi, this might help you:
at first make sure your air system is set to take the inside air of the car. this is the button with the car on it with above this little car a circular arrow like as if air circulates only within the car, or like the air from the outside wont circulate inside the car.
if possible get a expert to do a check up of the body/chassis, it might be in a condition where rust has made wholes in eg a part under your seat.
it might also be that something is wrong with the ventilation part of your honda, like 'tubes' are leaking within the engine bay or??? something like that.
ive had a honda, not this problem, but i think it'll be something with the isolation and or the plates between the chassis 'bars'....
hope you'll find a solution soon.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
the best way to reset it is with a scan tool.
disconnecting the battery for one minute will also remove the code.BUT
if your smog test uses an OBD scan as part of the process,then there will be a problem,because the monitors will not have been set,as they are reset if the battery is disconnected..
most tests allow only one monitor missing,and not the catalyst .
A drive cycle will have to be done to set the monitors.
Typically cold start coolant temp less than 50F,idle for 2 minutes no air condition, accelerate at half throttle to 50mph then drive 3 minutes with a/c on at 50mph steady.decelerate to 10mph without using brakes..Accelerate to 60mph and drive for 5 minutes at steady speed without a/c
deccelerate without braking and drive for 1 minute at 40mph.
stop the car ,use braking.
Shut off the car and add 4 gallons of gas.do not shut off the car for more than 5 minutes.
drive in 3rd gear or overdrive off with rpm 3000 for 1 minute.
decelerate to 10mph.without braking
accelerate to 40 mph in 4th gear.,or overdrive on
decelerate without braking to 10mph.
this will set the o2 sensor heater ,o2 sensor,catalyst,evap purge.and the other monitors.
Posted on Feb 26, 2010
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