Check master cyclinder booster

Did anyone bleed the system after the master cyl change or check for a faulty speed sensor if you have anti-lock brakes?

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bleed brakes Bing Videos

There is a special pump used to bleed the master cylinder first then after the master cylinder is installed you bleed the brakes and fill as you go it's a two-man operation

Take Off Nuts That Hold Master Cylinder To Booster. Pull Master Cylinder Away From Booster--Do Not Damage Lines--Feel With Finger At Rear Of Master Cylinder For Fluid--If Found Replace Master Cylinder And Booster With Total Unit Combo For Better Warranty. DO NOT FOOT BLEED--Pressure Bleed Or Gravity Bleed Only.

disconnect the front and rear brake lines, undo bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster. Bench bleed the new master and reconnect to booster and reconnect lines. Be very careful when undoing the lines from the master cyclinder as you do not want to damage them. Soak with WD-40 before loosening. Once everything is back in place you will need to bleed all calipers and/or wheel cylinders. Again soak the bleeder screws beforehand with WD-40 as they break off easily.

If it has good pedal and just won't stop you probably are not getting any help from your power booster. Check for the vaccum hookup at the motor and on the front of the power booster behind the master cyclinder.

It's the master cylinder, Theresa. It will need replacing, because the internal seals are not holding against pressure.
It is not a job for just anybody, but somebody with some experience in bleeding the master cylinder and then bleeding the individual wheel brakes could do it. It's a procedure for getting all air out of the system after replacing parts.

It sounds like you have air in your brake lines. This is usually caused by a very low brake fluid in the master cyclinder.
To fix this problem fill up the master cyclinder with brake fluid and bleed the front wheel brake cyclinders until the air bubbles are removed. Keep the master cyclinder topped up with brake fluid. Then bleed the rear wheel brake cyclinders until the air bubbles are removed. Don't forget to top up the brake fluid in the master cyclinder.

not booster or master- you need to bleed brake fluid from each wheel cyclinder- you have an air bobble somewhere

you can tell if the brake booster is bad, rearly it goes bad, your master cyclinder usually go out before your brake booster will. It feel spoon-gy and while pressing down on the brake peddle holding it down you can feel the pressure bleed off with no resistance. If the brake booster is bad you have only ONE shot for braking each time; its very dangerous. Did you bleed the brake lines to release the the air out of the system when you replace the pad? whom ever did your brakes should know to bleed it. having air in the line can be dangerous as brake will not function and operates properly and can cause an accident. If you did bleed the brakes and your booster is fine then you have a master cylinder problems. master cylinder gives you a spoon-gy feel and when braking the peddle it tend to go to the floor and you have to let your foot up to build the pressure and applied the brake again to make it stop. Master Cyclinder use or rebuilt will cost you 30.00 bucks and new will be 58.00 bucks and they are easy to replace. Just make sure you have plenty of extra brake fluid to bleed all 4 brake line..I recommend you reused the brake fluid when bleeding the unit saving some money than wasting the fluid, glass jar is the best for capturing the bleed fluid with automotive smallest vacum hoses you can purchase at any auto discount store 58 cent a foot, which you only need 2 foot. good luck I hope that help some.

could have a hose that has colasped letting fluid thru but not back thru check if it has rear drum brakes if so check wheel cyclinders they are bad if so.