How too remove the pins from the main front cab mount bushes. There are separate pins for each bush. There is a roll pin throught each pin.

So your main problem is body roll? Did you replace the swaybar bushings? Replacing my swaybar bushing on my 06 fixed my body roll problems. If you did, did you get the right size? There are 2 different sizes of bushings. $3500 for the front end??? Look at Detroit Axle next time. I did my entire suspension for $410, including hubs, shocks, struts, UCA, LCA, Links, inner, and outter tie rods.

On reviewing the manual, there are two cautions regarding installing the shift shaft that may be the source of your problem. One, the shaft must be installed with the detents at the front end of the shaft facing upwards. These detents are what the ball/spring seat into when the shaft moves forward/aft (like into 1st/2nd gear). The shaft can be installed 180 degrees out, but you would not feel the shifter 'lock' into gear.
The second caution seems more probable. When inserting the roll pin holding the shift shaft lever and bushing onto the shift shaft, the roll pin must be driven down flush with the surface of the shift shaft lever. If not driven flush, it can bind on or interfere with the movement of the bushing, possibly preventing the lever from being able to engage all of the three shift forks (3/4, 1/2, 5/rev). There are two roll pins used with the shift shaft. The shorter one (7/8") is used to secure the shift shaft lever/bushing and the longer one (1 1/4") to secure the shift socket in the rear.
Unfortunately, confirmation will require removal and partial disassembly (removal of the front case) to confirm.

Remove the road wheels, remove front hub from stub axles, remove the cotter pin nut and drive out the pin, remove the welch plug on the top of the king pin and with a drift drive the pin through the axle, press the old bushes from the stub axle and press in new bushes, ream the bushes till the king pin will just slide in .Then assemble make sure there is no play between the pivot bearing and stub axle use shims if required.

I have done a 100 of these.

The hardest part is going to be to reinstall the spring on the lower hinge arm. this is not a screw but rather a pin.
There are two hinges that hold the door to body.
when the upper and lower pins are removed the door will come away from body, it is important that before you remove the pins you take a look at the hinges.
Pay close att. to the way the hinges sit inside each other and the way the pins go in. see if they go from top to bottom or from bottom to top. also note where the copper bushings sit in hinges. each hinge has one pin and two copper bushings top go into hinge.
Over time the pins and bushings wear out ,making door hard to open and close. When the pins and bushings get so bad that the bushing is worn out and then the pins are now wearing into the hinge hole itself then this get tricky. if hinge hole is egg shaped the new bushings will not last. the door will hang again in a few weeks. this is where is get costly, the hinges now need replacing. i have gotten good at welding the holes and filing them back to shape but this takes skill or hole will be wrong and bushing will not fit or line up.

Here is a youtube video to help you.
Take note. put jack stands under door with cloth to avoid scratching door.this is to hold door when pins are removed. have somone help you, they will hold door on stands. the wires will still run through door, pull door away from body a little to allow room to work.remove the spring, it will fall out as you remove pins, remove old bushings, clean hinge area and holes,next install new bushings, apply lube to holes for pins and on bushings, slide door back on frame hinges and install pins, next slide lock washers on pins to hold pins. last is the spring. you will need a spring tool, you may rent one at auto parts store. hope this helps good day.

Is this bronco twin I beam with king pin and bushings or does it have control arms. BOTH avail that year. IF it is king pin and bushing front end.. that is your problem . JUST replace the king pin and bushings

The torgue spec for the upper control and ball joints is40 to 45 ft lbs they have castle nuts and cotter pins its not that critical the bushing are rubber mounts there much less user your best judgement not to over compress the rubber

1. Lower the window halfway.
2. Remove the front side door trim panel.
3. Remove the water deflector.
4. Support the window in a position needed to access the window rivets by inserting a rubber wedge door stops (1) at the front and rear of the window between the window and the door inner panel.
5. Drill out the window rivets (3) with a 1/4 inch drill bit.
6. Remove the window (1) by lifting out of the door. Important: Inspect the window bushings, window bushing retainers, window front up stop, window stabilizer pins and window wedges on the window for damage.
7. Remove the window bushings and window bushing retainers if necessary, using a flat-bladed tool covered with cloth body tape.
8. Remove the window front up-stop screw if necessary.
9. Remove the window front up-stop, front up-stop nut and front up-stop washer if necessary.
10. Remove the window stabilizer screws, if necessary.
11. Remove the window stabilizer pins, stabilizer pin nuts and window wedges if necessary.

Installation

1. Install the window stabilizer pins, stabilizer pin nuts and window wedges if necessary. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install window stabilizer screws, if necessary. Tighten the window stabilizer screws to 7 N.m (62 lb in).
3. Install the window stabilizer pin nuts, if removed. Tighten the window stabilizer pin nuts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).
4. Install the window front up-stop washer, if removed.
5. Install the window front up-stop screw, if removed. Tighten the window front up-stop screw to 7 N.m (62 lb in).
6. Install the window front up-stop nut if removed. Tighten the window front up-stop nut to 8 N.m (71 lb in).
7. Install the window bushings and bushing retainers, if removed.
8. Install the window (1) into door so that holes in window bushings line up with holes in channel.
9. Install the window rivets (3) in sequence.
10. Install the water deflector.

Hope this helps

Brake Pads Removal & Installation Front To Remove:

1. Remove the front wheels. Front brake caliper (exploded view)
   
   
2. Loosen the caliper bleeder.
3. Hold the slide pin; remove the 2 mounting bolts and remove the brake caliper from the support.
4. Support the caliper.
5. Open the brake bleeder. Press the caliper piston into the bore.
6. Close the bleeder after the piston has reached the bottom of the caliper bore.
7. Remove the brake pads, support plates, wear indicators and anti squeal shims.
8. Remove the slide pins and bushings from the caliper support.

To Install:

1. Lubricate the slide pins and bushings with brake grease.
2. Install the bushing on the slide pin.
3. Install the slide pin on the caliper support.
4. Install the brake pad support plates on the caliper supports.
5. Lubricate the anti squeal shims with brake grease.
6. Install the anti squeal shims on the brake pads.
7. Install the pad wear indicator facing upward and install the pads on the caliper support.
8. Install the caliper on the support.
9. Install the 2 mounting bolts, hold the slide pins and tighten 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
10. Fill the reservoir and bleed the brakes.
11. Install the front wheels.

Rear To Remove:

1. Remove the rear wheels.
2. Loosen the caliper bleeder. Rear brake caliper (exploded view)
   
   
3. Hold the slide pin; remove the 2 mounting bolts and rear brake caliper assembly from the support.
4. Support the caliper.
5. Open the brake bleeder. Press the caliper piston into the bore.
6. Close the bleeder after the piston has reached the bottom of the caliper bore.
7. Remove the brake pads, support plates, and anti squeal shims.
8. Remove the slide pins from the caliper support.

To Install:

1. Lubricate the slide pins with brake grease.
2. Install the slide pin on the caliper support.
3. Install the brake pad support plates on the caliper supports.
4. Lubricate the anti squeal shims with brake grease.
5. Install the anti squeal shims on the brake pads.
6. Install the rear pads on the caliper support.
7. Install the rear caliper on the support.
8. Install the 2 mounting bolts, hold the slide pins and tighten 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
9. Fill the reservoir and bleed the brakes.
10. Install the front wheels.

Which door is it ? If it is a front door, then it may be the hinge pin bushing that needs replacing. These can be bought at any auto parts store. Get the pin and bushing set because the hinge pin will need to be ground off to remove it. Press the new bushings in with pliers and insert the new pin from the top

WISH BONE BUSHES , ROLL BAR BUSHES, OR BUSHES IN TOP OF DAMPERS, UNLESS YOU HAVE A LOOSE BLOCK OR TRANSMISSION MOUNT