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I feel your frustration, Becky. Call a tow truck. Tell them you're locked out of your car. They can open it for a fraction of the cost of a locksmith.
Good luck.
Sounds more like a faulty battery terminal to me from your description ,try cleaning and make sure its tight then smear with petroleum grease.Clean terminal with a kettle of hot water first
I think you might even have your car battery checked as it is the heart of all activity. Batteries can build up overnight and react differently in heat.
Along that line is the transmitter for your key-less, the mate to your FOB which needs and uses radio signals to operate. The heat may have gotten to the part inside your car. Heat messes with electric components and may drop the strength of the signal. This is what it sounds like happens if the FOB needs to be over the hood of your car to operate. The car part of the system does not have a strong enough signal to respond to the FOB. Could be a gap in the antenna in the responder.
The jumper cable connection point under the hood is directly connected to the battery. If you are not familiar with charging batteries, it is much better that you connect your charger under the hood.
Leave the ignition turned off. Connect the positive (red) clamp to the jumper cable connector under the hood. Connect the negative (black) clamp to a bare metal ground point such as a bolt or lifting lug on the engine. Then plug in and turn on the charger. Let it charge for several hours before trying to start the car.
If this is the original battery, it likely won't ever really work well again. Maintenance free batteries do not respond well to being completely discharged, and at 7+ years of age, it is due for replacement anyway. I had to replace the battery in my wife's 2004 BMW 330 about four months ago, and it had never been allowed to go dead,
Evidently, you have a short. A lamp is probably draining the battery in the trunk, the glovebox/well or under the engine hood.
You can perform a process of elimination by opening your trunk and observe the light is on. Find the switch for the light and press it in to make sure the light turns off. Do this a couple of times to eliminate an intermittently function switch. Do the same for under your hood, glove box, etc.
Basically, you are drawing current for something. The easiest way to find this is with a current meter hooked up to your battery but what I have suggested above is for the non-technical person to try at home.
Charge and load test your battery. If it was connected to your vehicles electrical system, it was subject to low draw : clock, etc for the entire four years. It likely is bad. To get the rear brakes working you will likely need to remove both rear drums, give brakes a quick cleanup and put the drums back on. I've seen this before and I believe that the linings swell just enough to cause them to bind. Usually they will work just fine after cleanup. Hood latch is a bit tricky. Pull on the release lever and have someone bounce the leading edge of the hood. generally this will free up the latch. You can also try to spray a bunch of solvent up at the latch from wherever you can...It makes a mess but it will help. The only real connection between all your problems is that the entire vehicle was stored for four years. Once you overcome the problems at hand, change the oil and antifreeze before using it. Also, check any fuel remaining in tank. If over half full, remove it and replace. Fuel goes "dead" after less than three months...You are definitely over that limit. good luck
open the fuse box in the foot well should be redpillar that can pull towards you will have a pic of a car on it.connect one live to this earth to door latch and now can pop hood.there is also a button by fuse box to close open rear spoiler.
latch should be inside the car the towards the floor towards the left and if it still wont open when you pull the latch give the hood a couple taps and use lube on the hinge
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