Clk430 not getting fuel

It may be possible that the enrichment injector is what is keeping the motor running at cold temperatures since this only works when the engine is cold while warming up. Once the engine is warm this no longer works. At this time, the idle air control valve takes over and may cause the motor to stall if dirty or faulty.

You can either purchase or most places borrow a fuel pressure gauge from your local part store. You should have a schrader valve on the fuel rail where you hook the gauge. You should have over 40# of pressure at the rail when cranking the engine.

no job stated, just 1 injector,? pull?
which bank or both, matters........
same as all fuel rail injectors.really....cept access.

1: do the fuel depressurize steps in the service manual.
2: battery neg lug off.
3: gain access to the rail. (obvious , sorry) intake man pulled!
remove, fuel line and cross over,fuel lineis on right bank only.
4:remove the injector connectors, or if one,just one.
5: remove the injector rail 3 rail bolts or 6 if both banks.
6: they are now free.
this one photo makes it obvious.... no?
you must get to here.

to depressurize,
pull fuel pump relay as step 1
crank engine , let it stall from fuel,
then do it.

It may be gas or ignition related. Try to determine which, when it stalls and won't start. With key on, you should hear the fuel pump turn on for about 2 seconds to pressurize the lines and fuel rail on the engine. If you don't hear the pump, and have no pressure in the fuel rail with key on, it is probably a bad pump.
If the pump is working, check for a strong blue spark on a spark plug wire after it stalls. If no spark on any of the plug wires, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or the ignition control module. Either one can cause those symptoms- failing after it gets warm or hot.

but can you save the stall, with a fast right foot.
when it stalls do any lamps die in dash or others?
12vdc to the EFI system is the first check.
loss of power, kills EFI dead as a door nail. so .../?????
and the fast foot trick is next , always.
1,2, test 1, test 2 in 3 seconds at stall.

fast foot"
1: easy, (idle air loss, ISC stuck)
2: tad hard, (egr stuck open ,clean it) or flooding.???
3: impossible , lost spark,. or lost fuel pressure.

and rail pressure is dont with a gauge
all other ways are useless, , unless dry.
only 30psi or more is valid. not less.
no injector runs right below 28psi. (read the specs)

my new jeep runs at 60psi. 3.8L
to check rail pressure ,step one is to get the spec.
the FSM cover this.
My FSM shows no V8s, is that a typo.????? sure...
see the wiki and do tell REAL engine.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_%28XJ%29

if you can not tell real engine, i can not tell real specs.
not ever.
USA car, or export???? what COUNTRY ?
again, what car, what country what engine?
cant fix cars , if you can not identify the engine.
here is the list

• 2.1 L (126 cu in) Renault J8S I4 (turbocharged diesel)
• 2.5 L (150 cu in) AMC I4 (gasoline)
• 2.5 L (153 cu in) VM Motori 425 OHV I4 (turbocharged diesel)
• 2.8 L (173 cu in) GM LR2 V6 (gasoline)
• 4.0 L (242 cu in) AMC I6 (gasoline)
• 4.0 L (242 cu in) AMC H.O. I6 (gasoline)
• 4.0 L (242 cu in) PowerTech I6 (gasoline)

all tell end if 1996.

on any 1996 , I6, 4.0 engines
1296 means. (not other engines!!!! or cars)
No 5 Volts to MAP Sensor
the 5v line is shorted ,or cut, or the ECU 5vdc power reg, is dead.

with the bad the engine EFI will be hopelessly stuck in limphome.
TPS dead, etc. and will run like craap
and stall.
P1 is a factory code, and you MUST mach code to exact engine,year and maker. or data you read is wrong.
P0 codes are federal codes. and are universal.
P mean powertrain errors.

Sounds like it's not getting fuel. Check fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If low, make sure the pump is running. If the pump is running, but no pressure at the rail, check fuel, filter. Get back to us with result of these checks.

Fuel rail pressure regulator ?need to turn over abnormally long to get it to start worst when engine is cold and starts up right away when warmed up? replace the fuel rail regulator

Could be bad gas ( underground water seepage is more common in the winter ). You need to verify that your getting fuel to the rails and that the fuel is OK. Next, check your fuel regulator at the fuel rail. Sometimes when they go bad they will let too much fuel go past and the injectors will flood out. This happened to a Bronco I had. Check the fuel pressure at the rail. Sounds like fuel related, not spark.

A code 34 calls attention to the MAF sensor, not a MAP sensor. Try changing that out, first. You might also be having problems with your ignition control module.