Not able to select gears when engine is running,but when off selects easy,after fitting a new kit still does the same

The problem could be worn cynlonizers on gear 1and2 or sleeve for 1st and 2nd gears

that sounds like a worn clutch and pressure plate kit
it can also be a drop in hydraulic pressure in the clutch components like the clutch master or slave cylinder
it can also be air in the line try bleeding it

more than likely the clutch plate is incorrectly installed and the hub and springs are hitting on the flywheel bolts
fix is box back out and turn the clutch plate around

There are no timing marks on this engine - the engine has to be "locked" using special engine locking / setting kit which you wil have to obtain to do the job.

I will give you the instructions to do the job for when you have the locking kit to do the job.. as follows:

Removal

1. Raise and support front of vehicle.
2. Remove:
   • • RH front wheel.
     • RH inner wing panel.
     • Air filter assembly.
3. Support engine.
4. Remove:
   • • RH engine mounting and bracket.
     • Timing belt upper cover,
     • AC receiver/drier (if fitted). DO NOT disconnect hoses.
     • Timing belt lower cover.
     • Auxiliary drive belt.
     • Support bracket between gearbox and cylinder block (Palio).
5. Palio: Remove bell housing cover plate. Fit flywheel locking tool. Tool No.1.867.029.000. or equivalent commercially available.
6. Remove:
   • • Crankshaft pulley bolts
     • Crankshaft pulley
     • Spark plug leads.
     • Ignition coil and bracket.
     • Spark plugs.
7. Fit dial gauge and adapter to No.1 cylinder. Tool No.1.860.895.000.
8. Turn crankshaft to TDC on No.1 cylinder. Set dial gauge to zero.
9. Ensure notch in rear of camshaft aligned as shown.
10. Install camshaft aligning tool. Tool No.1.870.823.000
11. 
    NOTE: If camshaft aligning tool cannot be fitted: Turn crankshaft one turn clockwise.

Installation

1. Ensure No.1 cylinder at TDC by turning crankshaft slightly clockwise and anti-clockwise. Use dial gauge .
2. Ensure camshaft aligning tool fitted correctly
3. Hold camshaft sprocket. Use tool No.1.860.831.000/001
4. Slacken camshaft sprocket bolt
5. Fit timing belt in following order:
   • • Crankshaft sprocket.
     • Water pump sprocket.
     • Camshaft sprocket.
     • Tensioner pulley.
   NOTE: Observe direction of rotation marks on belt.
6. Fit tensioning tool locating pegs to tensioner pulley holes -Tool No.1.860.745.100/300. Ensure tensioning tool arm is horizontal.
7. Set weight at 70 mm mark on scale bar.
8. Hold camshaft sprocket
9. Tighten camshaft sprocket bolt - Tightening torque: 70 Nm.
10. Remove aligning tool
11. Turn crankshaft two turns clockwise.
12. Ensure No.1 cylinder at TDC by turning crankshaft slightly clockwise and anti-clockwise. Use dial gauge
13. Ensure camshaft aligning tool can be fitted - If not: Repeat installation procedure.
14. Tighten tensioner nut to 28 Nm
15. Remove:
    • • Tensioning tool
      • Camshaft aligning tool
      • Dial gauge
16. Install components in reverse order of removal.
17. Tighten crankshaft pulley bolts - Tightening torque: 20 Nm + 90°.

well a description of the problem would be a big help
does the gear crash when the clutch is pressed in
can the gears be engaged cleanly when the engine is stopped
did you install a single plate clutch or duel plate clutch
if the gears worked properly before removing the box , then the problem will be in the clutch plate fitting ( wrong way round and the hub is hitting on the flywheel bolts or duel plate on clutch bub is incorrect hitting on the other clutch hub)or the gear shifter installation after fitting the box

I think the problem is in your gearbox on your fith gear one of the docs came out and preventing it from selecting

don't want to shift? fills a huge basket ,
1: grinds?
2: can't get in to some gears.? or all gears.? (engine running and not)?
3: clutch drags, clutch slips kills all gears, or just 5th.
drag kills them all and reverse 1st , its the canary gear. !! non synchro
4: noise.? or chatter, ****,larchig, or throwout hash ,?

here is the clutch page, link below.

the #1 failure for a gear not Selecting is a $5 fix.
the tip of the shifter shaft, plastic POS is broken, bar none this failure,#1 and sold only at SUZ, get em' while you can they are chapter 11 ANDGM/GEO is brain dead , ask them , and you get blank stares.

this can be proven, by selecting the gears by hand. running.
if failure, cant move those fork rods?
running? only
if you cant, the clutch is dragging. see why?
works stalled means the clutch drags.
can you shift to 1st stalled, start engine drive off can you get any gear? yes,if yes , constantly? with no grinding, the clutch is ok.

to do that manual shifter off test test the shifter must be removed.



the we get to the cable.
see the 1inch rule here, no guessing.
play set to spec, and you floor the pedal , person 2 sees 1 inch travel, (END new cable worry)
if it moves 1inch and the tranny can not be SELECTED.
the clutch is bad, if you can select only stalled motor.
if selection fails all time, stalled and running, the tranny is siezed.
covers every fail logged by 1000s of users

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html

clutch not disengaging properly
check fluid level and bleed the system
if it had the problem from the fitment then you may have to modify the clutch throw out arm to allow for the thickness of the adaptor plate
ot
get a different slave cylinder that will allow more movement of the piston
May be just a longer slave cylinder push rod so that the piston is not at the end of the cylinder

It will be best to get someone to check the hydraulics of the clutch. That is a common issue.
Get a workshop to drain the gearbox oil and flush the system. A tell tale may come from the drained oil if the tranny is near end of life.

They did something wrong, take it back. Good luck.