Hi Allison:
If the work was done in a shop I would bring it back and review the problems with the service manager. Usually they are really good about getting it done right, without additional cost.
If this was a "home" job, there could be several different problems.
I'd be jacking it up and checking that there is no slack in the bearing installation. I'd also be looking for any reason that one brake would drag or slide. To exaggerate, if one rotor is greasy, and another one scored, braking will be different and the wheel will jerk.
Here's a fun way to check.
Find a large vacant space like an empty parking lot.
At about 10 kmp, very lightly hold the steering wheel, and sharply hit the brakes. Depending on how much fun you are having you can try it a bit faster. The steering wheel will sharply turn to the side that is getting the most braking force.
It won't take long to track down the problem.
Hope this helps.
Be safe.
Fix them ......... soon.
Were the caliper slides re greases and
caliper pistons check for seizing
try to adjust front bearings again
if no better might have to remove and inspect bearings
if the whine is still there move to the back
high pitch wining noise ..how is the diff ?
SOURCE: Rear Wheel bearing needs to be replaced
the bearing has to be pressed in, quite the job even doing it at the shop- you will have to have some sort of press to press the bearing in.
SOURCE: Steering wheel vibration and whine noise from rear of car
Yes, and it probably is your wheel bearing. Hearing a sound like a chain dragging is classic. You may also hear a clicking noise or chain dragging noise when turning to the left or right.
Look under the car and see if the rubber boots that surround the axle near the tires are cracked and leaking grease. If so, it is almost a certainty that the bearings are bad as you have lost grease and thus lubrication to the bearings.
Good luck,
bob
SOURCE: steering difficult(slow) and a whining noise when turning wheel
The whine is most likely your power steering pump. Check the fluid in the pump. If you are low on power steering fluid you may have a leaking hose or fitting or the seals in the pump may have began leaaking. If you continue to run the auto without power steering fluid you will burn up the power steering pump very quickly.
SOURCE: how do u replace the front rotors on a 93 2wd
In order to replace the front rotors, you first jack the front end up to lift the wheel off the ground and put a jackstand to support the vehicle and put a block on the rear wheels...DO NOT USE THE JACK ONLY!!!
Once the vehicle is up, remove the wheel to access the disc brakes.
Remove the caliper from the rotor and place it somewhere in the wheel well where the brake line will not be stressed...THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT...the job gets a LOT harder if the brake line breaks!
Next, remove the bearing cap to reveal the cotter pin and bearing nut, remove the cotter pin and nut DO NOT LOSE THESE!!!
You will see the outer bearing, remove it, the washer, and the race then pull the rotor off to reveal the inner bearing, race, and grease seal; remove these, DO NOT FORGET HOW THEY CAME OFF!!!
Clean the spindle meaning get all the dirt and crud...this has to be squeaky clean or dirt will get inside and you will be replacing your bearings in a couple of months. Use new bearings when putting it back together, this ensures everything is clean and freshly greased.
You will need to pack the inner bearing with grease...what I do is wear nitrile gloves and scoop a handful of grease out of the container into the palm of my hand, then I take the new bearing and push it into the grease ensuring grease is in the bearing and coming out the other side.
Next install the grease seal, inner bearing and race by following the removal steps in reverse order. While you're at it, put a good amount of grease on the spindle...there is no such thing as too much grease.
Slide the new on until it makes with the inner bearing, make sure the rotor is on straight, if you can't get it straight the inner bearing is not on straight so do the inner bearing again to get it on straight and then put the rotor on...it should slide easily on with no resistance and rotate freely.
Now pack the outer bearing the same way you packed the inner bearing and slide it on the spindle. Install the washer, this will most likely have a tab on it to align the spindle, make sure the washer is on correctly.
Now you are going to reinstall the nut but only hand tighten it for now because you are going to have to spin the rotor forwards and backwards to ensure it rotates freely and is straight.
Once you determine the rotor is straight and rotates freely, tighten the nut about a quarter turn (no more than 16 foot-pounds). If the nut is castellated, ensure it is lined up with the hole in the spindle. Now install a new cotter pin...IT HAS TO BE NEW, using the old one increases the risk of the pin breaking which will let the nut loosen which will end up with your wheel coming off, most likely while you're doing 80 on the Interstate.
Once the cotter pin is installed and bent, fit the cap back on. The pin should be bent sufficiently to allow the cap to be tapped on.
Now reinstall the caliper and pads, put the wheel back on and you are done!
SOURCE: 02 yukon denali has a whining noise similar to bad wheel bearings
the jerking and noise you are experiencing is the drive chain and bearings in the transfer case also you may want to check the end play in both front and rear pinion bearings and yokes
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The bearings are tapered. Pressed in New racers, guys sold e wrong pads, switched those. Think metal clips on caliper need change. Some "helper" somehow cover entire driver side caliper in bearing grease. Think I need to clean that? Ted Maxwell, sounded good once new pads were on, I got going bout 20, slammed on then they made the weeehhhh noise, pedal almost pushes back on me. N always/still pulls to the right. It's like the piston is seizing. Can those metal guide clips cause this? Pls cleaning rotor n caliper
Hi Allison:
We used to use a socket, a block of wood, and a hammer to gently tap the bearing cup into place. If it was not all the way in when the assembly was completed, it would seat under use and the bearing would then be loose. If you jack up the wheel and push the top in and out you will feel if there is any slack.
The metal clips don't necessarily need changing. Often new ones come with the new pads.
As for the grease, there's a sure cause for the uneven braking. Pulls to the right, left side greased. That's a sure cause.
I would be using brake clean spray and a rag to totally clean the rotors, and pads, with a final flush of brake clean on the pads. It is possible that the pads may not clean adequately. You can give it a try, but you may need to get new ones.
Sounds like you've about got it solved.
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