What is the hot side of the coil so I can hot wire to see if I can get spark also to check to see if coil still is goood

I have no wiring info for your model year. With key on both positive and negative at the coil, are hot, correct?
Do you have tfi module on this vehicle?

Is this a GM vehicle? Which one, what is engine litre size?
How long since a tune-up? If no spark check plugs and plug wires--check cap and rotor. If it has a coil wire to distributor take it loose from distributor, hold close to engine ground, have helper crank while you watch for spark, if no spark, could coil wire or coil, Check primary voltage coil, usually goes hot with key on. The coil also needs a ground usually controlled by ignition module.

Could be a bad coil, or a bad pickup coil inside the distributor, or worst case a bad pcm.

You said the coil is good, but didn't mention if you had tested the coil's primary and secondary circuits with an ohmmeter to see if they are within specs? And the pickup coil is like a crank position sensor: it tells the pcm crankshaft position and rpm so the computer can determine spark timing.

You'll need to double check each item you replaced one by one to find the cause. I recommend (In the future) to replace wires, start & check engine. Replace fuel filter, start & check, coil then star & check.
For wires, make sure you have wires going to correct locations, check for possible damage to spark plugs (Cracks or breaks), and good connections.
Fuel filter, make sure it's in proper orientation as to flow direction as seen on the arrow stamped on the side, showing flow direction. and make sure you are not leaking fuel anywhere.
Coil... Again, check connections and proper wiring.
You might also wish to check for proper "Hot" (Bright Blueish spark) at the plugs.. Wear heavy insulated gloves or use well insulated grips to hold plugs against engine block to view spark.
A dimer orange spark = bad connection or faulty wire.
Also if you have a manual, they usually have detailed troubleshoot guides.
Best of luck on a speedy diagnosis!

I've been there.... A nightmare!!!

Your prolem sounds as the classical Hot Coil problem with no solution. Next time when engine stalls, check for spark, touch the coil and the ignition module. If they feel hot to the touch (can't hold it), chances are there is too much resistance in the High Tension side of the ignintion circuit.
This means the circuit from the coil to the spark plugs has too much resistance. Since you already changed everything I have to ask a question: Is everything as original specs??

When I had this problem it resulted that the gap between the terminals of the distributor cap (new) and rotor where to big, This created great resistance which heated the coil and quit sending spark.

Perhaps there is something in the High Tension circuit which is out of original specs. Is the gap in spark plugs correct?
Try an old distibutor cap. Do the metal contacts in the spark plug cables touch the metal of the spark plug contact?
Does the metal contact from the cable touch the metal from the coil's contact? Are they dry?

Check things which can create a gap where electriciy has to "jump" to complete its way to the spark plug. These are the ones which cause the hot coil and hot module trouble.

The most likely cause is you have a bad distributor. The coil is inside the distributor and when it gets hot, it quits creating spark. The testing to verify this is a little complicated and takes a little know how.
To test the coil in the distributor first disconnect the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay (located on the drivers side on the firewall in a group of three relays, it is the middle one) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (on the drivers side in the front of engine compartment to the right of the air filter housing) connectors.

Next, remove the distributor cap and connect a grounded jumper wire near the coil tower. This is to check for spark jumping from the coil.

Jumper pin 30 to pin 87 at the ASD relay.

Check for 12 volts to the Dark Green/Orange wire at the single wire connector at the distributor. This wire feeds the positive side of the coil.

5. Connect a 12v test light to B+. With the probe end of the test light, momentarily tap the Black/Gray wire at pin 11of the PCM. This action should cause the coil to fire. If there is no spark out of the coil tower during this step, the distributor has failed and needs to be replaced. If there is spark from the coil tower check all powers and grounds at the PCM.
Hope this helps. Good luck!!

The most likely cause is you have a bad distributor. The coil is inside the distributor and when it gets hot, it quits creating spark. The testing to verify this is a little complicated and takes a little know how.
To test the coil in the distributor first disconnect the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay (located on the drivers side on the firewall in a group of three relays, it is the middle one) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (on the drivers side in the front of engine compartment to the right of the air filter housing) connectors.

Next, remove the distributor cap and connect a grounded jumper wire near the coil tower. This is to check for spark jumping from the coil.

Jumper pin 30 to pin 87 at the ASD relay.

Check for 12 volts to the Dark Green/Orange wire at the single wire connector at the distributor. This wire feeds the positive side of the coil.

5. Connect a 12v test light to B+. With the probe end of the test light, momentarily tap the Black/Gray wire at pin 11of the PCM. This action should cause the coil to fire. If there is no spark out of the coil tower during this step, the distributor has failed and needs to be replaced. If there is spark from the coil tower check all powers and grounds at the PCM.
Hope this helps. Good luck!!

most likely the ign switch is ok if you are getting spark. so you have a hot spark at coil and weak fire at plugs? if you have a test light check the positive side of coil for power when turning key on and cranking. if it is dropping power on positive side then ign switch could be bad. can "hotwire" coil by jumping a wire to positive side of coil to pos of battery this will eliminate ign switch.

the coil has two wires. one side is hot 12 volts the other side is the side that is pulsed to ground to create the magnetic field to induce high voltage.. with the key on not running you should see voltage on both wires... disconnect the plug from coil and recheck you will have power only on one wire that is the hot wire.. hook back the plug now take your test light ground clip and clip it to the positive terminal on battery. then back probe the wire to be pulsed.. have some one crank jeep and you look at test light.. looking for kinda dimm flash... if so that tell you you should have spark if not the bad coil.. if you don't see flash then probable bad pick up/... let me know

The coil has two seperate circuits 1) primary (is this where you are checking?) the thin wires at the base of the coil. and a secondary circuit this is your high voltage side the spark side and it needs the primary side to turn on and off in order to work youe test light should flash on the negative side on the primary circuit if it does not you will not have spark and your triggering device is deffective if it does flash then you have an open coil and it should be replaced.
Hope this helps you