A/C compressor front seal leaks 134a. Can the can of 134a with leak sealer really seal the leak?

NO NO NO NO NO NO

--- No--- LEAK SEALER goes into-- ANYTHING-- EVER--

Leak sealer RUINS things & you CAN NOT GET IT OUT

It will clog the A/C orifice,expansion valves,the coils,gum up the
compressor

In the cooling system it will ruin all of it,thermostat,heater core,
radiator

I would say look at & read but NEVER buy ANY Doctor Do
Goods off an auto parts store shelf ever

The ONLY thing you buy in there is Permatex Anti-Seize,Thread-Locker & Gasket Sealer & brake tubing

I don't buy parts there anymore

If you have ANY Vehicle problems

You find them & do only the proper repairs

When you spend 40 to 60,000 dollars, you do not spend
$8.00 on a quick fix, that is just a cash cow for the marketing
& supply chain & useless for your vehicles

You have to remove the two tubes and change 2 o'ring or seal.
Warning; before removing the bolt you need to release R-134a pressure.
Refill with 1onces of A/C oil compressor and fill with the specifications of R-134a.

Hope it helps.

Hi there:
What can happen is the vehicles Freon will leak out and reduce the total pressure in the system. Then the low-pressure cut out switch will disengage the compressor when the low side is detected below 25 psi.

This safety feature is to protect the compressor itself. I have seen mechanics bypass the low cut out switch for testing. This should never be done and is not recommended.

The visual presence of oil around a fitting or pressurized line is a strong indication of a refrigerant leak. So my first step in air-conditioning leak diagnosis is to perform a very careful visual inspection of the entire system.

Although this is always my first step for diagnosing Freon leaks it is not always effective in finding the exact problem. In fact, this visual inspection will only uncover large to extremely large leaks. A more common air-conditioning problem would be small leaks that allow Freon to escape over long periods of time. So to follow will be some methods to detect these small leaks.
- The Robinair leak detector is a hand held battery operated electronic leak sniffer. The test probe on the end of the leak detector is moved about 1 inch per second in the areas of suspected leaks. The Robin air leak detector has an alarm that will go off when it detects the presence of a Freon leak. Note on some other models they may have flashing lights or a buzzer. Also some leak detectors are specialized to detect only certain freons (example: 134a) but they all are designed to alert you when they sniff the refrigerant.
- To find refrigerant leaks using the fluorescent tracer system, you first have to install the fluorescent dye into the cars air-conditioning system. Always follow the instructions and do not install too much dye! Too much can reduce the cooling efficiency of the system. Different refrigerant dye leak detectors will accomplish this in different ways. The system we use at work has a device that looks like a caulking gun, and a hose that connects to the low side fitting. Then you actually push the dye into the low side with the engine running and the compressor engaged. Next you run the air-conditioning system for several minutes to distribute the dye evenly. Then you put on your yellow glasses and examine the system with a fluorescent light.
The fluorescent dye shows up easily wearing the yellow glasses.

A very popular selling item is Refrigerant with leak sealer. This item will only seal very small leaks. I have used the stuff pictured to the right "super seal pro" and it does work in some situations.

The Freon leak sealer works best when you have low side system leaks. And if you happen to have a small leak from an O-ring on the low side this stuff works well. If you have a leak on the high-pressure side chances are this sealer will not work for you.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Crank seal could either be at the front or rear of the engine (there are two) Cam seal is at the front of the cylinder head. If the leaks are minor, a good product that may help is lucas conditioner and sealer. Larger leaks require an actual seal replacement. No sealer will work immediately. The reason most leak is because over time the seal hardens from heat. It takes a while to soften it up again.
If the leak is from the rear main seal, the transmission needs to be removed to get to it but neither seal is part of the transmission.

134a freon,you will need a charge hose also,that you can get from parts store,and pick up a can of oil,pag 46 oil,if it leaked freon,it leaked oil too.It will take bout 2 to 3 cans of freon.If this was at all helpful,please rate.

That is caused by a worn front seal on the transmission. If the leak is very minor, often a product like Lucas trans sealer and conditioner (one of few additives I know of that work without doing any damage elsewhere in the transmission) will stop it.
If it is a bad leak the only real cure is to have the unit removed and re-sealed.

check the labels, but usually it's R134-a refrigerant. I suggest you might as well check for leaks. One common problem of ageing compressors is that the shaft seal leaks in due time and might need to be replaced. Check with your reliable aircon tech guy. goodluck!

The sealers on the market have had a minimal amount of success in repairing small leaks. It's certainly worth trying if the only alternative is the costly repair you are facing. If you're comfortable trying it yourself, get a can of R-134A with the leak detector. It's possible the leak you are experiencing is elsewhere. Recharge with the leak detector and look for the UV dye that marks areas of leakage. Best of luck.
Greg

depends how bad is the leak they do make seals but after labor and they usually last 1 to 2 yrs only ull wish u bought a new one u can try remanufactured dont rec

The red coating on the seal is sealer, once it gets hot it softens and keeps fluid from going around the seal barrel, this can really get stuck, a small slide hammer with a screw on the end works well for the really stubborn ones.