Suzuki Vitara front brakes seizing intermitantely.

Your better off going by the feel of the pedal rather than measurements. Try this. With the engine off and the brake system cold remove the key from the ignition and pump the brake pedal. it should get progressively harder and your foot travels a shorter and shorter distance until its too hard to press.
Press and hold the brake pedal hard down then start the engine. You should feel the pedal soften, that's the vacuum inside the brake booster kicking in.
Release the pedal and again press it hard down, holding it there. The pedal should feel firm and not change. Release and repeat to make sure.
If the pedal has no resistance check your work as there is no pressure in the system. If the pedal is soft or spongey re-bleed the system starting with the calliper furthest away from the reservoir.

Fluid level is too high in reservoir
Caliper slide pins are seizing up
Brake pads are binding in caliper
Brake pedal push rod is out of adjustement
Brake pedal light switch switch is out of adjustment and constantly pressing slightly on the pedal

It means the brakes are still applied...the hydraulic pressure from stepping on the brake pedal is not releasing once you take your foot off of the brake pedal. Causing the brakes to not release.

Its possible that your rubber lines are collapsed. I've had them keep fluid from going thru as well as not releasing pressure. See if fluid gets to caliper thru rubber. You can plug it with your finger and release pedal. If you feel vacuum and fluid flows well when you push brake, that's probably not the problem. Its somewhere to start tho.

Some brake systems have a pressure control valve usually soon after the master cylinder that cuts off the circuit with low or no pressure in the event of a leak or rupture of the line.
Trace the metal brake lines from the master cylinder down the chassis and you may find a small cylindrical valve that has 2 inlets from the M/C and 2 outlets leading front and rear. The method of centring the piston in this valve varies from one supplier to another but basically the good rear system has pushed the piston one way and cut off the front circuit. If you lightly release the pressure in the rear system, then try and bleed the front system it may push the piston back to centre. If it does, close the rear system and then front and see if you have any front circuit pressure.
This is only a guess at your problem but remember, brakes are your life, don't be embarrassed to get help or get a manual.

To bleed the brakes you need someone to pump the brakes and someone to watch the air valve on the back of the brakes until the air is out of the line. Once the air valve on the back of the brake line starts to flow brake fluid clearly then the air will be out. Recap the air valve and you should be ok.

The short answer is "no", but working out why could be a little bit difficult. Any further diagnosis should be performed on a hoist or with all 4 wheels off the ground and the transfer box in 4H. Be aware that any of the following checks where front and rear wheels may turn at different speeds will generate an ABS error code and a light on the dash that may need a Dealer to turn off - if you have ABS. You'll also need a couple of hydraulic brake line locking clamps. The first check would be to make sure the front prop shaft turns in reverse as it does in forwards 4WD. Why it wouldn't, I couldn't tell you!
Stop the engine, and while someone is holding their foot on the brake, clamp off both front hydraulic lines to each of the front calipers. Release the hand brake (park brake) and release the foot from the brake pedal (keep foot off brakes from now on) and restart the engine (in nuetral or N), and whilst the engine is idling, select 1st and slowly let the clutch out (if it's a manual), or select D (if it's an auto). If the line locks are holding the pressure in the front brakes, then the manual should stall, and the auto's back wheels shouldn't be turning (but the engine would feel like it's in gear). That would confirm that the front wheels are driving when in forwards 4WD.
Then we do the same test but going backwards, so select reverse and let the clutch out (or R if auto), and if what you say is true, then the back wheels should be spinning away at idle. If the engine stalled, or the back wheels aren't turning, then everything is OK.
Remember to remove the line locking clamps after this test.
I would think that you may have only seen the wheel that wasn't turning when going backwards. These cars have open diffs - so the wheel with the most resistance to rotating won't turn, but the one on the other side will. This is the same for both the front axle and rear axle for most Grand Vitaras. Very few have a factory rear LSD, and I don't think any got a front LSD.
I've just had inspiration - if the front wheels don't drive ONLY in reverse 4WD, the only thing wrong would have to be the front diff engaging mechanism or its related wiring/switching controls. If the relays that control the pump that supplies air pressure to the diff engaging diaphragm in the front diff housing don't get the "I'm in 4WD" signal from the transfer box, the pressure is relieved to the diff and you're back into 2WD. My next check would be to see if your reverse lights are working when in reverse. See if your reverse lights come on when in 4WD or 2WD. If they aren't working, or coming on at the wrong time, then SOMEHOW, the wiring/plugs on the gearbox/transfer case may have been mixed up (during a clutch replacement?) or the wiring somewhere else is wrong. I would probably do the checking of reverse lights before the first test above. Good luck. Let me know how you go.

Is the new cylyder new or used?
Do you know the seals are ok(master cyl. and calipers/slave)?
Have you blead front and rear?
Is the front lines out , connected to the front?
These are some of the mistakes I have made with brakes and obvious things to check/ask, but never overlook the obvious.

You still have a restriction somewhere on that side if it is the only one that locks up.

Change th flexible hoses.They are breaking down inside effectively creating a non return valve so when you brake the fluid cannot release.