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Re: Cold start easily. when warm it just swings the...
Hi Piet, The link below is a YouTube video showing how to fix a car that stops running whilst driving down the road, Also there's videos down the right side of the link that may help as well....................CHEERS.. Fixing Car That Shuts Off Randomly
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two things to check. First, check the EGR valve to see if it is sticking open. this valve is not activated until the engine is warm. This valve could also have a vacuum leak in its diaphragm so check the valve out thoroughly.
Second, there is an engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor that alerts the engine computer as to when the engine is warmed up. If this sensor is faulty and stuck in the full cold mode, it will tell the computer that the engine is cold even when it is fully warmed. The computer will then use the cold engine fuel schedule which is way too much fuel for a warm engine. The engine will run too rich and sputter. In this condition, the computer will schedule too much fuel for a warm start and the engine will flood. That is why you must wait for it too cool down and "match" the faulty sensor.
Note: the ECT has two wires going to it and is dedicated to informing the engine computer. It has nothing to do with the engine temp gauge on the dash board instrument panel. The sender for the dash gauge has only one wire. The two sensors are easily confused.
Hi, This sounds like the ect sensor is malfunctioning, This sensor provides info to the computer that the motor is in closed or open loop. Open loop means the engine is cold send more gas, It doesnt work propery it sends to much fuel on start up, Problem is better known as wet soak condition..
First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to: 1)When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up. 2)Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced. 3)If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is worm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core. 4)If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator. 5)If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest to flush the heater core.
It is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator. But just in case I would suggest to follow the entire procedure:
First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to: 1)When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up. 2)Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced 3)If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is warm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core. 4)If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator. 5)If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest flushing the heater core.
First you have to identify what causes the problem.
To do this you have to: 1)When engine is cold check the level of coolant. If it is low fill it up. 2)Start engine and check if engine reaches regular temperature. If your engine is not heated enough it means your thermostat does not work properly and should be replaced. 3)If engine temperature is normal, then check the temperature of pipes that go to/from heater core. These pipes are located up the fire wall (easier access is from the passenger side). If pipe/pipes are cold (even engine is warm) it means you heater core is plugged and should be flushed. Keep in mind, flushing the whole cooling system is different from flushing heater core. 4)If pipe/pipes are hot/warm, turn off the fan, switch controller to the hot position, wait for 3-4 minutes and turn on the fan. Note if the cold air blows first or warm air blows first but it cools down in 5-10 seconds. If the air blows cold than it is most probably the problem with blend door or blend door actuator. 5)If air blows warm first and then cools down, then while running engine and remaining the transmission in PARKING position, press on the gas pedal until your engine reaches 3,000 RPM. Check if your heater blows warm/hot air. If it does, then your water pump does not work properly and should be replaced. If the air still cold, I would suggest flushing the heater core.
check engine coolant temperature when it gets warmer, or at operating temperature, and verify that the temperature gauge is showing warmed up to operating temperature. If the coolant temperature sensor tells the computer the engine is cold it will over fuel and miss and the engine will die. When cooled down it will run fine until it warms up. Also could be coil if it starts missing after warmed up.
I need to get a clear mental picture of what exactly is happening.
With this said, you stated that the car "runs fine" until warmed up.
Q: When you start the car when cold it idles fine?
Q: If you allow the car to idle until "fully" warmed does the car stall?
Q: As the car begins to warm up, Does the RPM fluctuate abnormally?
Q: Does the car Only stall when you press on the gas pedal or does it stall just sitting and idling in addition to pressing the gas pedal?
Q: If you can drive it while cold does the car stall during acceleration when warm or only at Stop Signs / Lights?
Q: If you wait 20min or so, can you start the car again?
Q: How many miles are on the car?
Your ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor is bad. What's happening is at cold start it richens up the fuel mixture and as it warms up the ECM thinks it's still cold and essentially the "choke" is still on. Also check your coolant level. If you don't have enough coolant in you engine/radiator, the ECT doesn't know what to do so it thinks it's cold.
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