How can I remove the spindle nut? It seems to be

no like any nut on bolt -constant turning to remove cross bar or impact gun makes it faster

Tighten the spindle nut to 149 ft-lbs to seat the bearing then
. rotate the axle 5 to 10 times to seat the hub bearing, then
tighten the spindle nut to a final torque of 263 ft-lbs I would just use a good impact gun to get it there.

I use an impact gun on them. They always come off, even if they are stripped. Breaker bar with a pipe on it gives you more leverage. Lube it also.

if the nut is stuck , way not get expert help.

it will come of in the right hands (heat, and impact gun)

or

heat axle to about 200F. to 300f

the as it cools hit it with penetration oil.

as it cools it may suck in the oil (physics trick)

and now the impact gun. no shop air, makes hard work on any cars.

so if no shop air, use a 1/2 drive or more breaker bar.

and use a pipe extenson, most 1/2 will snap at over 150lbs.

so 3/4" works better

but the impact gun works best.

you can youtube this > why not do that.?

here is first google hit on hubs

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1995/honda/civic/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/wheel_hub.html



or here is honda real.

what you need is obvious. if you just look at the real drawings.

brake page and hub,

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=1996&catcgry3=2DR+DX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=FRONT+BRAKE+%281%29

tell my how would you pass the hole hub

thru the small, hole in the knuckle spindle.

you going to buy a whole new axle and knuckle.



http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=1996&catcgry3=2DR+DX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=KNUCKLE





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Put the car's front on jackstands(front suspension hanging down) and chock the rear wheels.Remove the tire/wheel.Remove the bolt/nut for the lower balljoint.Remove the cotter pin on the large spindle nut.Remove the nut(you'll need a 1/2 or larger impact gun with the correct impact socket).Dislodge the ball joint from the knuckle(a large punch rapped on the sides of the knuckle hole will help to break it loose).Lower the control arm and pull the knuckle outward(the axle shaft should now slide out).Now you should be able to remove the bolts that retain the bearing assembly.Reassemble in reverse order,thread locking compound on the bolts for the bearing is probably a good idea.

Hi,welcome to fixya.


The rear wheel bearings are not adjustable. If the bearings make noise or become loose, they must be replaced.

Removal & Installation

With Drum Brakes

NOTE The wheel bearings are contained within the wheel hub and must be replaced as an assembly.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
4. Remove the anti-lock sensor retaining bolt and remove the sensor.
5. Remove the brake drum retainer and the brake drum.
6. Remove the hub retaining nut dust cover.
   NOTE Do not use an impact gun to remove the hub retainer nut.
   
   
   Fig. Using suitable tools loosen and . . .
   
   
   Fig. . . . remove the hub retaining nut dust cover
   
7. Remove the wheel hub retainer nut.
   
   Fig. Using suitable tools, loosen and . . .
   
   
   Fig. . . . remove the hub retaining nut
   
8. Slide the hub and bearing assembly off of the spindle.
   
   Fig. Carefully slide the hub and bearing assembly off of the spindle
   

To install:

1. Reinstall the hub and bearing assembly to the spindle.
2. Reinstall the hub retainer nut. Tighten the retainer nut to 170-192 ft. lbs. (230-260 Nm).
   WARNING Do not use an impact gun to tighten the hub retainer nut, otherwise the bearings may be damaged.
   
3. Install the hub retaining nut dust cover.
4. Reinstall the brake drum.
5. Check the brake shoes for proper adjustment.
6. Reinstall the anti-lock sensor and the retaining bolt. Tighten the retaining bolt to 7-8 ft. lbs. (9-11 Nm).
7. Reinstall the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the wheel nuts to 62 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
8. Lower the vehicle until the wheels are supporting the vehicles weight. This will properly load the suspension.
9. Tighten the spindle-to-control arm bolt to 52-79 ft. lbs. (70-98 Nm).
10. Tighten the tie rod-to-spindle bolt to 75-102 ft. lbs. (102-135 Nm).
11. Finish lowering the vehicle.

Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.
Thank You for using fixya........iluv2fish........Ray........

While you did not mention the year, front or rear hub I have done most.
The hub bearing assembly is a sealed bearing that mounts with three bolts coming in from the axle side. An air impact gun will be required to remove the drive axle spindle nut that passes thru the center prior to disassembly. Remove the axle nut, three hub fasteners and ABS wire harness to the wheel speed sensor. Reinstall in reverse order

1. Jack up and support car on jack stand. Make sure to chock wheels and or lock the parking brake on.
2. Remove wheel
3. Remove cotter key, castle lock and nut at center of rotor that attaches the axle. - If you lack and impact gun to remove this - it is easier to loosen this nut with all of the wheels on the ground.
4. Remove outer tie rod from spindle, Tap out with hammer. Should not require much force.
5. Remove the single bolt from the lower ball joint and separate from spindle.
6. Pull axle out of spindle and remove from transmission. This may require you to drive this out with a hammer and punch ( I use a brass punch), make sure not to damage threads if you intend to reuse the axle.

To install reverse the procedure. Make sure to replace any cotter key removed with new ones during install.

Torque specs you need are

Ball Joint to Spindle = 91 ftlbs
Tie rod to spindle = 36 ftlbs
Drive axle hub nut = 166 ftlbs

on some models they are put on with a impact wrench i used to just put a impact wrench on it put it on remove and pull the trigger

It's nearly impossible unless you have a good air compressor and a powerful 1/2" or larger drive impact gun.The reason is you have to remove the cv axle nut and axle out of the way before removing the bearing and hub.The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove.The procedure is:Jack vehicle safely off the ground,remove wheel and tire.Remove axle retaining nut.Remove balljoint nut and bolt,pry down on lower control arm,and disengage balljoint and lower arm from spindle.Now the axle can be released from the hub,but leave the other end of the axle in the trans,just set off to the side out of the way.At this point,there are two ways to change the bearing.The wheel bearing is a double roller,cartridge type with the hub containg the wheel studs,pressed into the bearing.Remove the entire spindle assembly from the suspension strut,OR leave the spindle attached to the strut,and remove the bearing and hub from the spindle.Some guys swear by taking the spindle to a press,and pressing the bearing assembly out with a bottle jack.I just use a bushing driver set,and ball peen hammer,and remove the hub from the bearing...then remove the snap ring retaing the bearing in the spindle,then drive the bearing out of the spindle with the hammer and drivers.There you have it.Reverse procedure for reassembly