Replace either the solenoid for the air valve or the air valve as you are still getting air pressure to the clutch
While that may not seem important, it is to be considered that if the clutch is not getting full air pressure to keep fully engaged, it will slip at any thing less and that will burn out the clutch facings in the long run
there are manuals for horton fan clutches so go google and type in --workshop manual for horton fan clutch ( model)---and see if there is a pdf version for down load
SOURCE: 2003 Saturn Vue electric fan always running
Check the fan relay, probably in fuse box in the engine compartment. Check owners manual to be sure. I have seen these melt causing fan to run all the time.
SOURCE: right condenser fan doesn't work
that fan comes on when the a/c is on...replace the a/c condensor fan relay if the fan isnt working..but first.make sure there isnt any burnt wires and the fuse is good as well
SOURCE: 2000 ford f250 ac not cooling at idle cools good
What this sounds like is an under charged unit. If you just had the work done then there is a posibility that they under charged it or it has developed a leak. That is posible. Hope this helps and good luck.
SOURCE: A/C blowing hot air on driver's side
You have a faulty switch. Go to the salvage yard and buy a used one, pull off the trim panel and replace it. I just did one of these last week with the same symptoms.
SOURCE: 1986 chevy S10 has no power (12v) at fuse box on
hello, check all fuses, and relays, make sure wires to ac is not broke or has been pinched, sometimes you can run hot wire from battery, to compressor, touch hot side of plug in on comp wire see if it will kick on, if so sounds like a short, if compressor dont kick on with hot wire run to it, tap the out side of comp clutch and see if it kicks on, these compressors will not kick on any way if they are low on freon, once freon is full it should work.
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I changed the heater control unit the a/c pressure sensor a/c is working properly. I ohmed the harnesses (no breaks) i checked coolant temp sensor harness I changed air temp sensor. Changed ALL the relays all fuses and breakers r good.
I it has good air press
yes it probably has but is that pressure actually getting to the air clutch or is the leak from the valve /solenoid allowing just enough to make the fan spin but slip at high engine rpms
There is no air leaks. I ohmed all harnesses and checked good
I changed air temp sensor coolant temp sensor and high pressure sensor for the a/c
I changed heater control unit. There's no breaks in the wires. It's getting 3.4v to ground side to the solenoid which isn't alowing the solenoid to send air to the fan to disengage
No because it has no ground to open the solenoid to let air get to the fan. The fan is not slipping it won't disengage cause there's voltage at ground to the solenoid and all wiring is checking out good
the electrics should be 12 volts or 24 volts
The resistance in the coil of the solenoid will reduce that input voltage to around what you are reading
to disengage the fan solenoid there should be no voltage into the solenoid and there should be a spring in the solenoid to push the rod into the air control valve to close it off and open an exhaust port to allow air in the clutch system to exhaust
As I originally stated the problem is in the solenoid, power to the solenoid or the air control to the clutch
The problem isn't i. The solenoid its brand new and the voltage is good but I'm not supposed to have voltage to ground. I have a fleet of all the same yr same model trucks so I tested another truck to c and the ground has 0 voltage. Like I said I checked everything and everything is checking good.
Cause if I manually ground it the fan works perfectly the way it should but throws a code so obviously I can't do that. By the way thanks for helpin Bill.
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