SC2. What is torque for: lower control arm to frame, lower control arm to sway (torsion) bar, ball joint castle nut, and tie rod castle nut?

• Axle Shaft nut - 177 ft-lb
• Hub and bearing assembly to steering knuckle bolts - 133 ft-lb

2003 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 v6. Changing steering rack and

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Jan 11, 2021 - Below are the torque specs you requested: Steering Rack-to-frame mounting bolts: 136 lb. ft. Outer tie rod nut: 37 lb. ft. Outer tie rod ...
1 answer · 1 vote: Coupler clamp bolt to the intermediate shaft: 33 ft. lb.

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  Torque specs for tie rod end castle nuts - JustAnswer

  https://www.justanswer.com > chevy > 2p3g8-torque-sp...
  Oct 24, 2009 - Tighten the clamp nuts 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) (except C3HD). On C3HD models, tighten the clamp nuts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm.

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Brake Hose Bracket Nuts .................... 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Lower Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 128 Nm (94 lb ft)
Lower Control Arm Bumper .................... 32 Nm (23 lb ft)
Lower Control Arm to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 165 Nm (121 lb ft)
Shock Absorber to Control Arm Bolts .................... 27 Nm (20 lb ft)
Shock Absorber Upper Nut .................... 11 Nm (100 lb in)
Splash Shield to Steering Knuckle Bolts .................... 26 Nm (19 lb ft)
Stabilizer Bar Bracket to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 33 Nm (24 lb ft)
Stabilizer Link Nuts .................... 18 Nm (13 lb ft)
Outer Tie Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 lb ft)
Upper Ball Joint Nuts .................... 24 Nm (18 lb ft)
Upper Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 100 Nm (74 lb ft)
Upper Control Arm to Frame Nuts and Bolts .................... 190 Nm (140 lb ft)
Adjuster Tube Clamp Nut .................... 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
Idler Arm to Frame Nut .................... 99 Nm (73 ft. lbs.)
Idler Arm to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Pitman Arm to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Pitman Arm to Steering Gear Nut .................... 250 Nm (184 ft. lbs.)
Relay Rod to Re Rod Nut .................... 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.)
Steering Shock Absorber to Frame Bracket Nut .................... 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.)
Steering Shock Absorber to Relay Rod Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)
Tie Rod to Steering Knuckle Nut .................... 62 Nm (46 ft. lbs.)

SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS. MAKE VECHICLE SITTING ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND. REMOVE FRONT WHEELS , REMOVE HEAT SHIELD, IF EQUIPPED WITH 15 INCH WHEELS, REMOVE BALL JOINT CLAMP NUT, REMOVE SWAY BAR TO CONTROL ARM BOLTS, REMOVE STRUT CLEVIS FROM THE LOWER CONTROL ARM, REMOVE SWAY BAR TO CROSSMEMBER BOLTS LOOSEN THEM AND ROTATE THE SWAY BAR AWAY FROM THE CONTROL ARM, LOWER CONTROL ARM FROM STEERING KNUCKLE. REMOVE BOTH LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLTS. REMOVE CONTROL ARM. DURING INSTALLATION TORQUE LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLTS 120 FT LBS. CONTROL ARM STEERING KNUCLE TORQUE NUT 70 FT LBS.TORQUE SWAY BAR BOLTS 21 FT LBS.

To remove the lower control arm raise and support your car with jack stands.Next you want to remove the wheel that you are replacing the control arm on.Remove the ball joint nut and tie rod nut.Tap the steering knuckle to break the tie rod end loose from the knuckle DO NOT HIT THE TIE ROD SO HARD YOU DAMAGE THE THREADS.If you do you will also be changing a tie rod end.Tap on the steering knuckle until your ball joint stud comes loose.Remove the 2 bolts that mount the control arm to the frame.To install the new one just go in reverse.

General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
   
3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.
   
   Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
   
4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
   NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.
   
   
   Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
   
5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.
   
   Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
   

To install:

1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly
   

Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
   
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
   
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   • Tire and wheel
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut
     
   • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
     
   • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
     
   • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut
     
   • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
     
   • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
     
   • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
     
4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
     
2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
   
   • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
     
3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
   
   • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
     
   • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
     
   • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
     
   • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
     
   • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
     
   • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
     
   • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
     
   • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
     
   • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
     
   • Tire and wheel
     
4. Lower the vehicle
   
   • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
     
   • Wheel center cap, if removed
     
5. Check the front wheel alignment.
   

Lift the passenger side of vehicle. Remove tire/wheel assembly. Remove the axle nut. Remove the tie rod end nut. Smack the side of the housing the tie rod end goes into to pop the tie rod end loose and out. Remove the sway bar link. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Smack the housing the lower ball joint goes into to pop the ball joint loose. Pry the lower control arm down to pop the ball joint out. swivel the rotor and strut assembly to the side. Pop the axle out. Reassemble in the reverse order.

Remove in this order: wheel, loosen the 4 lower ball joint set bolts, cotter pin and nut from tie rod, tie rod from ball joint bracket, ball joint from lower control arm, 4 lower ball joint set bolts, ball joint from suspension. Install is reverse but don't tighten the 4 lower ball joint set bolts.

torque is as follows:
ball joint to control arm- 112 ft-lbs
Tie rod nut- 67 ft-lbs
lower ball joint set bolts- 83 ft-lbs
remember to use a new cotter pin