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Can someone please advise on an intermittent electrical problem on a Honda motorcycle dashboard.
The LCD and clocks keep going off after a few minutes. They come back on once the bike has stood for a while but go off again after a few minutes. The rest of the dash warning lights, fuel gauge, ABS, F1, and HISS lights all seem OK. Odometer is still counting up the miles despite not being visible for some of the time. Please help.
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Hi Francis
Ii advise you to get a back leak test and fuel rail pressure check by expert,
the problem that you have is low fuel pressure, probably caused by injector/s back leak.
Good luck
well, you bought a car that takes a NASA engineer to keep going
so take it to the man.?
if really feeling safe working any HV car. (high voltage)
I am but are you? DIY?
then buy the FSM and read, it , then ask questions.
join the honda hybrid forum. ask there..... vast hits on same.
zero here.
i would call around to local junkyards to see if any have any 01 hondas, if so go take a look and see if it has the same clock. if so buy it. you could also look on ebay or craiglist for someone parting his old honda out. lastly of course you could call a dealer and ask about a new part. search on youtube for a video of someone pulling out honda dashboard.
The
clock slides out by carefully prying with a fine screw driver. Take
care not to scratch the dashboard fascia. It has a mini light bulb in
the back, which can be taken out by rotating it with a small scredriver. it looks like a small plastic disc with ridges on it. Take it to the dealer / parts shop so they can see the proper
color. Accord dashboards came with 3 different color plastic covers on
the bulbs, in order to match the rest of the dashboard and radio. No need to disconnect the 2 electrical plugs that attach to the clock.
to me it sounds like the alternator is intermittenly cutting out and when they cut out they can do some wierd stuff i'd recommend you letting an automotive electrical shop look at the alternator and test it
For dashboard mount:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Carefully pull the clock bezel from the dash.
Remove the screws securing the clock to the dash.
Pull the clock out slightly and unplug the electrical connector.
Installation is reverse of removal.
For console mount:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the rear console.
Remove the screws securing the front console cover and pull the assembly out slightly.
Unplug the electrical connectors on the back of the panel.
Remove the screws securing the clock (they come in from the back of the panel), then remove it from the panel.
Installation is reverse of removal.
Well it absolutely sounds like an alternator issue. But i noticed you said "in the rain" correct? See this is where it gets tricky for most folks. But ill tell ya how to resolve this, if you arent having problems now things are gonna be just fine. I mean if you got up the next morning and th ecar did normal, then evidentally an electrical component had some moisture in it but has dried out now,so if it was the alternator the problem would only worsen, and within a few days your battery would fail. So I think you will be just fine
I had intermittent instrument light problem that went dark for months,
until today. :o) I read somewhere that it could be the dimmer switch
and didn't think that was my problem as the dimmer worked (dimmed the
radio and transmission indicator light) and playing with it never
seemed to help with the problem. I did find it odd that dimmer was not
completely linear, as it would get brighter up to a certain point and
get slightly dimmer with the last little bit of travel.
Today, I took the instrument cluster apart to fix a broken clock,
sticking gas & voltage gauges, and to explore the instrument light
problem. I took apart the dimmer switch, and to my surprise (was
expecting a simple POT), it was a very complicated PCB with some IC's,
resistors, transistors, etc. I thought, "all this just to dim the
light???" Anyway, I found the POT (potentiometer) and gave a few
squirts of WD-40 and found it turning smoother. After putting it back
together, the instrument light came back and the dimmer is now
perfectly linear. Apparently, less than perfect POT causes some sort
of funny logic through the network of IC's and transistors and can
cause the instrument light to go on or off randomly at certain
intervals.
Anyway, I'm so happy to have the light back along with a working clock
and not having to punch the instrument cluster to see how much fuel I
have. Not really a posting type, but wanted to help someone else out
there with a similar problem with same cause.
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