P6000s silent diesel generator Serviced the generator and filled the sump with 1.65L of 15w30 diesel oil the oil light keeps coming on when running what can cause it to come on? Jamie

diesel engine - diesel fuel leaking from seals in the pump and getting into the sump oil
if petrol as on a mower , needle and seat defective allowing fuel to drain into the sump

Hi Cassie If I remember correctly I believe with a new filter you will need 6.5 litre. On saying this yours is an earlier version and might have a slightly smaller sump. If you are purchasing oil make sure you get the correct oil it is very important with this engine also make sure you change it when its due. These engines if not serviced regular will sludge up. Purchase 6.5 litres, if it has a smaller sump it will only be a bit less. When filling fill to the top marker on dipstick it will either be a dot, line or line with a criss cross pattern below it. Good luck

The oil light means that you have low oil pressure. The rattling noise confirms the diagnosis. There are a few things to check immediately. First check the oil level. If it is low, fill to normal level and retest. If it is normal, verify that you have had the oil changed when due. Clogged oil filters can cause the symptoms. If neither of these is the case, you may have to have the oil pump serviced. The problem could also be with the oil pickup assembly in the oil pan sump. These need to checked out by a mechanic.

it indicates worn hydraulic followers , worn main and big end bearings , worn oil pump
The sludge build up is from not changing the oil on a regular basis
every 10,000klms or 5,000miles
short runs and not allowing the engine to get hot enough to boil off the water vapor from the combustion process
When it comes to oils , it is a personal preference and when you understand that oils ( synthetic or otherwise) carry additives to hold water in suspension, add tensile strength to the oil so that it can keep the moving bits separated and not touching, maintain viscosity and lots of other purposes, then you will realize that over a period of time all of those additives get neutralized and the oil is useless(sludge )
there is not an oil on the market that will last 12 months in an engine even though new car manufacturers claim it to be so
so changing the oil regularly means that sae 20w-40 mineral oil is just as good as the very expensive synthetic oils and cost a lot less
I find that using diesel oil ( shell rotella 20w-40 as an example) will keep an engine clean because it has a higher detergent additive to keep diesel engine clean of carbon

Fill the sump to the full mark on the dip stick and ensure that you keep it topped up to keep it there. 1/4 on the dip stick is not enough if you want to keep the engine in one piece.. For example there will be around 4 pints in the sump to the full mark and you are running on 1 pint. That means that the oil is getting super hot and oil pressure is suffering.

You have a problem. Drain out the oil . leave out the plug to drain out as much as possible. Get some flushing oil from a lubrication retailer. Remove the spark plug. Replace the sump plug and fill with the flushing oil. Spend around 10 minutes pulling the starter cord or run the starter motor if you have one. Drain the sump and leave out the sump plug until there is no more draining out.. Repeat the procedure again. Replace the sump plug and fill with the recommended proper oil. Replace the spark plug and run for around 5 minutes no load. Drain out the sump oil and refill with the engine oil.. The major problem that brake oil is a vegetable based oil and reacts badly with mineral when heated . IF you have successfully managed to flush out all trace of the brake fluid and there has been no damage to the bearings and cylinders then you are lucky. If however there is signs of contaminated sump oil ( thick---lumpy---black- tarry) you may have to full the engine down and clean out everything.

I usually ask people with this problem how long they plan to keep the car. If it doesn't get worse, you can keep driving like this. If you want to keep the car a long time, then read on.

It could be the sensor or the pump or a clogged strainer. Of these, the sensor is by far the cheapest repair. Put a new sensor in and see if that fixes it. If not, now you have to take the oil pan off to make sure the strainer isn't clogged. If it is, clean and reinstall the oil pan. If it isn't replace the oil pump and then reinstall the oil pan. If you have more questions or need instructions, please let us know.

just fill it up till the top mark on the indicatorstick.

There is a oil drain return from the turbo charger to the sump. If the sump oil level covers the outlet into the sump, oil will build excess pressure tin the turbo causing the sealing rings to leak oil in to the intake manifold. This would cause smokey exhaust and loss of oil. Try this. Drain the sump completely, refill with the exact quantity of oil to Mazda spec. Dip the oil and if the new oil level is lower than the full mark on the dipstick, you have found the cause of the problem. Mark this new level with a scriber or file and fill only to this new level. Hope this is the solution.

This section only applies to wet sump engines - the type found in most consumer vehicles. For more info on sump types, see Wet sumps vs. dry sumps below.
To a lot of people, this little section could be categorised by the rearranging the words "granny eggs teaching **** your to". But you'd be surprised by the number of people that don't know how to do even this basic task. When checking the level of oil in the engine, the car should be on a level plane, and should be relatively cold. I've run into several people lately who insist in keeping the crankcase topped off completely, and they invariably check the dipstick just after shutting down the engine. Reading the oil in this way results in an erroneous reading because a quantity of oil (usually about half a litre) is still confined in the oilways and passages (galleries) of the engine, and takes some time to drain back into the crankcase. (On the image, the blue areas are where oil is likely to still be running back down to the sump). On seeing what appears to be an abnormally low level on the dipstick, these people then add more oil to the oil filler at the top of the engine. The oilways and passages all empty, and suddenly the engine becomes over-filled with oil, going way above the 'MAX' mark on the dipstick.