First pull a spark plug and have someone turn over the engine to see if you have spark. Make sure the plug is grounded. IF spark it may be a fuel issue, and most likely a fuel pump. If no spark, Could be a bad ground, check the battery cable to engine, black for ground, make sure no corrosion, clean and ret-torque fastener. Next check that no fuses are blown. Follow the positive feed to the distributor, make sure that you have power to the distributor coil. YouTube is a great place to see if there are checks for diagnostics. You will need a volt /ohm meter to check for power and continuity. Sorry for the generalities, but you should start from the power source and
SOURCE: Battery going dead 2001 BMW 330i
Whenever a car has this type of a problem, it is normally because of poor connections, belt slippage *severe*, or - very possibly, something is putting an excessive drain on the battery when it is not running.
My experiences have been to first check that ALL the connections are totally clean - especially check your battery posts and make sure they are tight with very good - surface-to-surface contact. Remove BOTH connectors on the posts and clean with battery post cleaning tool *wire brush* and then use the spray that stops / limits corrosion.
Are you sure that battery IS OK? Take it in for a load test - old batteries often deteriorate over time *sealed or not* and it just might be time for a new one. Get the biggest 1 that will fit in where it is held. More amperage *rating* is always better.
Poor connections often happen during cold weather season *expansion and contraction cause this*.
BAck to connections again - VISUALLY inspect ALL your cables/wires for discoloration. Connections need to be tight - end-to-end in the charging system. I am not sure if the car has a starting relay or not - and if so - where it IS located. THAT TOO is a problematic area due to poor connections that quite often, just may need to be cleaned.
Are you sure your alternator IS good --- are it's belt nice and tight- but not too tight? Speaking of the belt ... look on the inside track of the belt - has it been replaced recently or is the rubber in poor shape *splits, showing sign of extreme heat from slipping etc*. When you have a load test - that test alone will indicate whether it IS charging even if everything is running like A/C, radio, light, wipers. Check you gauge inside the car - IF it has one - and no matter what RPM ~ it should still be charging *showing positive charging - NOT discharging*. Lastly - the alternator OUTPUT -- is it the right one for that car - correct rating???
There are even more areas worthwhile checking ... but unless you have the correct tools and diagnostic equipment - it can be tough to nail-down the right specific problem. A lot of places *like Sears* will have that - and used to not charge for the diagnostic - because they wanted to sell you THEIR battery.
One more thing .... most cars will have some minor drain due to clocks running, alarm working and so on. HOWEVER - if a light *like an interior or truck light* remains on, that will give you a larger drain.
A battery should never go dead while driving - and your light *running lights* should always be bright .. are yours??????
Hope this helps!
SOURCE: starter licking, but starter good..car wont turn over
the alternator is probably shot you would have to get it replaced
SOURCE: car will not start, starter will not engage
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Fig. 1: Unfasten the starter motor electrical connections. You may want to tag them first to avoid confusion
Fig. 3: The starter is attached to the engine with 2 mounting bolts (see arrows)
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SOURCE: 1994 oldsmobile 88 won't start
if key has a chip in it the lock cylinder is bad it has wires that sense that chip i've got a new one pluged it in at base of steering column with new key in it and used old key as normal
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