Coolant leaking back of motor

you might want to have your water pump checked, and the soft hose replaced

best to change the headgasket n be done with it

how about the heater core?most times it will leak inside the vehicle.. but its just a guess

Vehicles: Any with the above symptoms

A cracked cylinder block will cause either:
(a) motor oil contamination of engine coolant
(b) coolant contamination of motor oil
(c) white exhaust smoke, due to coolant seeping into one or more cylinders.
(d) more than one of the above
(e) all of the above

Oil infiltrating into coolant is easy to see - drain some coolant out through the pepcock at the bottom of the radiator, and place it into a styrofoam coffee cup. Oil droplets floating on top of the green (or orange) coolant are easily seen. Or visualize oil by looking into the top of the radiator through the radiator cap.
Coolant infiltrating into and mixing with motor oil will permanently damage the engine (seizing it up through loss of lubrication), and must be prevented.
A leak from above the front suspension is, as physicians like to put it, "nonspecific", with the most likely cause a water pump seal or hose/hose connection.
A leak from near the fire wall will usually be a heater core hose, or hose connection.
A coolant leak on the same side of the engine as the water pump is a leaking water pump or water pump seal until proven otherwise.

To rule out everythng else, here's the 1999 Honda CR-V Troubleshooting Guide for Coolant Loss/Coolant Leaking:

Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Water Pump - Worn, Cracked or Leaking Water Pump, or Water Pump gasket.
2 Inspect Head Gasket - Leaking Head Gasket.
3 Inspect Radiator - Leaking Radiator Hose(s).
4 Inspect Radiator Cap - Worn or Damaged Radiator Cap.
5 Inspect Radiator Hose - Ruptured, Cracked or Leaking Radiator Hose.
6 Inspect Freeze Plug - Leaking Freeze Plug(s).
7 Inspect Intake Manifold Gasket - Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket.
8 Inspect Water Outlet - Cracked, Leaking or Damaged Water Outlet.
9 Inspect Heater Control Valve - Leaking or Faulty Heater Control Valve.
10 Inspect Radiator Drain Pepcock - Loose, Damaged, or Faulty Radiator Drain Pepcock, or Pepcock O-ring.
11 Inspect Engine (DOMESTIC ONLY) - Cracked Cylinder Block Leaking Coolant into at least one Cylinder, causing white exhaust smoke.

REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.MAKE SURE COOLANT NOT LOW.IF ALL IS GOOD CHECK FOR LEAKING WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE IF LEAKING REPLACE WATER PUMP.MAKE SURE COOLING FANS RUNNING.IF ENGINE RUNNING HOT WHILE SITTING LONG TRAFFIC LINE AND COOLANT NOT RUNNING.CHECK COOLANT FAN RELAYS AND FUSE.IF ALL IS GOOD HOT WIRE MAKE SURE COOLING FAN MOTOR GOOD IF COOLING FAN DONT RUN WHEN HOT WIRED FAN MOTOR BAD.IF FAN MOTOR OKAY AND FUSE RELAYS GOOD YOU HAVE FAULTY COOLING FAN WIRING.YOU COULD HAVE BAD ENGINE COOLANT SENSOR OR FAULT IN ECM CODE SCAN TO CHECK THEM BOTH.CHECK ENGINE OIL.LOOK LIKE MILK SHAKE YOU HAVE LEAKING HEAD GASKET.IF OIL LOOKS OKAY.YOUR ENGINE BLOCK, RADIATOR AND HEATER CORE NEED FLUSHING.

if it is still leaking check the hose from the coolant reservoir , check radiator hoses, then check radiator.

This could have several causes. Is the coolant tank full? Is the coolant relatively fresh and a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze?
Does the heat gauge jump up to hot and then fall back rapidly at some point or just rise and keep climbing? If so, it is the thermostat. Is there a leak evident under the car? If so, it could be a bad water pump. The water pump has a small weep hole and if there is water at that point the pump needs to be replaced. If none of this is the cause, then it could be a plugged radiator or a faulty cap located on the radiator or the coolant overflow tank.

Chances are that the radiator behind the fan has a leak (fan has no water supply so can't leak water). Have the system pressure tested to find the leak. As far as the fan not coming on, it is also likely that the sensor that controls it is sometimes deprived of coolant and therefore not reading properly (because of radiator leaking)
Therefore, have the radiator checked, repaired or replaced, then, if the fan still mis-behaves change the coolant sensor, check fan relay and connections. If water got into the fan motor, it may have caused a problem but the motor is supposed to be sealed and that's doubtful.

1 Inspect Oil Pan Gasket - Performance Ruptured, cracked or leaking radiator hose. 2 Inspect Hose (Bypass) Ruptured, cracked or leaking bypass hose. 3 Inspect Hose (Heater) Ruptured, cracked or leaking heater hose. 4 Inspect Radiator Cap Worn or damaged radiator cap 5 Inspect Heater Core Heater core may be leaking antifreeze/coolant into the vehicle`s floor area. 6 Inspect Heater Control Valve Leaking or defective heater control valve. 7 Inspect Radiator Drain Plug Loose, damaged, or faulty radiator drain plug. 8 Inspect Radiator Rusted, corroded, or damaged radiator may be leaking antifreeze/coolant 9 Inspect Water Pump Damaged, worn or leaking water pump. 10 Inspect Cooling System Mix Coolant level low or flow is restricted. 11 Inspect Head Gasket - Performance Blown head gasket 12 Inspect Hood Brace Leaking, worn, or damaged intake manifold gasket 13 Inspect Freeze Plug Freeze plugs are cracked or leaking.

Hi,

Whatever the reason for the engine siezing, it will be to your advantage to replace the radiator as debris may already be blocking a number of the lines.

As to the overheating, the most likely reason is a failed water pump (most likely), or a thermostat stuck closed (least likely), or a coolant leak (noticeable). Since engine would be replaced, the water pump and thermostat would also be replaced and the leak would be verified upon installation of the new engine.

Incidentally, I was made to understand that Hyundai warranties their drivetrain for 10 years or 100,000 miles. I believe the engine is a part of the overall drivetrain system.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

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