How do i get the timing chain installed after ive put the head back on

2001 , no such ani-mule !
"Introduced for the 2002 model year as a replacement for the Cherokee (XJ),"
you meant manufactures date not model and reg. date. sure.
2002 !
3.7L V6 (cop spark ) chain drive cams....
timing ( cam or spark?)
"Ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is possible"
so Cam timing (alldata.com covers this in detail)
why not post the context, Im doing what.?
im doing a 60k belt swap
or it slipped. or think id did.
or just put in a new head or cam? see , context is 100% important.
im here, going to there.....
im on line, and it shows 4 engines, i think that is wrong, but...

you must be asking chain cam sprocket timing.
im at alldata.com (or FSM)
there are 37 install steps, im not sure what step you want me
to pluck out. but here is my guess. step 8 ,9,10

1. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8429 to hold chains in place for installation.
2. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
3. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.

step 12:
Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly . After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or equivalent. This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. Align the timing mark on the idler sprocket gear to the timing mark on the counterbalance shaft drive gear, then seat idler sprocket fully . Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).

step 13:

1. Align left camshaft sprocket "L" dot to plated link on chain.
2. Align right camshaft sprocket "R" dot to plated link on chain.

step 15/16

1. Remove Special Tool 8429, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
2. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the "V6" marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position.

do ask questions, or login to alldata.com or mitchels
or get a real FSM.
its nothing trivial.

in fact get the book before the job. so are perpared.

Did you take pictures while removing the originals? It's always a good habit. Below are the instructions you need to follow. Your own pics are very helpful when doing a big job like this.

1. Disconnect negative battery (1) cable.
2. Drain cooling system.
3. Remove upper intake manifold.
4. Remove cylinder head covers, crankshaft vibration damper, and timing chain cover.

CAUTION: When aligning timing marks, always rotate engine by turning the crankshaft. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.

1. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to mark on oil pump housing (2). The mark on oil pump housing is 600 ATDC of #1 cylinder.

CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT rotate the camshafts or crankshaft without first locating the proper crankshaft position. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.

1. Remove primary timing chain tensioner retainer cap (2) and tensioner (1) from right cylinder head.

1. Disconnect and remove camshaft position sensor (4) from left cylinder head.
2. Remove timing chain guide access plugs (3) from cylinder heads.

NOTE: When camshaft sprocket bolts are removed, the camshafts will rotate in a clockwise direction.

1. Starting with the right camshaft sprocket, remove the sprocket attaching bolts. Remove camshaft damper (1) (if equipped) and sprocket.
2. Remove left side camshaft sprocket attaching bolts and remove sprocket.
3. Remove lower chain guide (7) and tensioner arm (8).
4. Remove the primary timing chain (5).
5. Remove crankshaft sprocket (6).

INSTALLATION

1. Inspect all sprockets (4,9,11) and chain guides (2,5,10). Replace if worn.
2. For crankshaft sprocket installation procedures Refer to CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.
3. If removed, install right and left side short chain guides (11). Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
4. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to the mark on oil pump housing (3).

NOTE: Lubricate timing chain and guides with engine oil before installation.

1. Place left side primary chain sprocket onto the chain so that the timing mark is located in-between the two (plated) timing links (1).

1. Lower the primary chain with left side sprocket through the left cylinder head opening.

NOTE: The camshaft sprockets can be allowed to float on the camshaft hub during installation.

1. Loosely position left side camshaft sprocket over camshaft hub.
2. Align timing (plated) link to the crankshaft sprocket timing mark (3).
3. Position primary chain onto water pump drive sprocket (10).
4. Align right camshaft sprocket timing mark to the timing (plated) link on the timing chain (8) and loosely position over camshaft hub.
5. Verify that all chain timing (plated) links are properly aligned to the timing marks on all sprockets.
6. Install left side lower chain guide (2) and tensioner arm (5). Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .

NOTE: Inspect O-ring on chain guide access plugs before installing. Replace O-ring as necessary.

1. Install chain guide access plugs to cylinder heads. Tighten plugs to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .

NOTE: To reset the primary timing chain tensioner, engine oil will first need to be purged from the tensioner.

1. Purge oil from timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:

1. Place the check ball (2) end of tensioner into the shallow end of Special Tool 8186 (3).
2. Using hand pressure, slowly depress tensioner until oil is purged from tensioner.

1. Reset timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:

1. Position cylinder plunger (4) into the deeper end of Special Tool 8186 (3).
2. Apply a downward force until tensioner is reset.

NOTE: If oil was not first purged from the tensioner, use slight finger pressure to assist the center arm pin of Special Tool 8186 to unseat the tensioner's check ball.

CAUTION: Ensure the tensioner is properly reset. The tensioner body (4) must bottom against the top edge of Special Tool 8186 (3). Failure to properly perform the resetting procedure may cause tensioner jamming.

NOTE: Inspect the tensioner O-ring (2) for nicks or cuts and make sure the snap ring (1) is correctly installed, replace as necessary.

1. Install the reset chain tensioner (1) into the right cylinder head.
2. Position tensioner retaining plate (2) and tighten bolts (1) to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.) .

1. Starting at the right cylinder bank, first position the camshaft damper (1) (if equipped) on camshaft hub, then insert a 3/8 square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub. Rotate camshaft until the camshaft hub aligns to the camshaft sprocket and damper attaching holes. Install the sprocket attaching bolts and tighten to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
2. Turn the left side camshaft by inserting a 3/8 square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub and rotate camshaft until the sprocket attaching bolts can be installed. Tighten sprocket bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.).
3. Rotate engine slightly clockwise to remove timing chain slack, if necessary.

1. Activate the timing chain tensioner by using a flat bladed pry tool to gently pry tensioner arm towards the tensioner slightly. Then release the tensioner arm. Verify the tensioner is activated (extends).

1. Install camshaft position sensor (2) and connect electrical connector.
2. Install the timing chain cover, crankshaft vibration damper, and cylinder head covers.
3. Install upper intake manifold.

NOTE: After installation of a reset tensioner, engine noise will occur after initial start-up. This noise will normally disappear within 5-10 seconds.

1. Fill cooling system.

This is not something that can be fixed in a few lines,so the best thing to do is go to "alldatadiy.com". About $30US will get you a very specific diagram and steps to help you put your engine back together the right way. You could also try to get the Haynes manual for it at the auto parts store or a chain store like Wal-Mart that has an automotive section. Hope this helps.

yes especially if it is a 4.0 sohc engine you will need something like my otc master timing and cam kit to lock and hold cams they do not have keyways cut for camshaft sprockets and when you remove no way to tell where to put back without kits

Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)

4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)

2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)

2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)

1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)

1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)

1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.

new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change

head gaskets

some of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for 2*4.

The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com

My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:

$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab

$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

Its worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon you could do it in half the time the second time).

It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.

It is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the engine in the car.

You will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid car - except for the plastic guides!

Disclaimer Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview

A Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.

Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.

Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.

At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.

The engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams 180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other settings may cause major damage to the valves.

The 2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.

The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.

With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in the same position either up and level or down and level.

It is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate for crank timing but not engineering failure.

Be warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.

Now heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.

There is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about 90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)

For the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US $119 - then sell them again for say $100.

There is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the right spot on the cam.

go search on ebay, they sell kits for everything. yes there are gasket kits and timing chain kits much cheaper than buying each part

The 3.0 engines has 2 timing chains.it has left side timing chain and a right side timing chain.if you planning to change timing chains.besure to replace timing chain tensioners.

buy a new chain to make things easier

Turn the engine by hand to Top dead center on the # 1 cylinder,Pull the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing.It should be lined up with the # 1 plug wire on the cap,If it's not,turn the distributor until it is.If you can't turn it far enough,you will need to pull the distributor out and turn one tooth on the distributor gear and reinsert it.

If this it is way off,let me know and I will tell you what to do.


please rate this a fixya

I had the same problem with my chevy s 10 I got a new rotor button and new distributor cap and it fired right up!! what happens is over time the gold covering on the rotor button wares off and no longers sends a spark to the plugs. A new rotor button is in the 5 to 10 dollar range and a new distributor cap is arounds 20 to 30 dollars!! good luck bro,