No crank no start

NO CRANK. 96 USA car,(are my answers) check all fuses 1st !
C1 and FL1 and FL3 fuses good?
4wd ? or 2wd. auto or stick shift?
which engine? size? and cyl count....??????? 2.6 or 3.2liters?
wiring varies by engine type, so i guess more....
Does it crank ok with jumper cables (?) to a running donor car?
can be lots of things, gee the IMMO light in the dash is clear.
is it glowing? (the operators guide covers that.)
is this a USA car or Canada? some are different.
got a voltmeter even a $10 walfart meter works perfect.
or do you want to gue$$ and go broke fast. its your cash but/?.......
3.2 v6 shows no IMMO pins on the PCM...... so...?? in 1996

1. battery dead, or discharges or terminals at 4 ends bad on cables.
2. Fuses good.?
3. turn key does CEL lamp glow?(cluster) if not , its not going to start with a dead ECU.
4. no is the IMMO lamp glowing.
5. key to start, (crank pos) silent.? now shift to Neutral like the the operators guide shows, cranks now? (a/t trans and no trans stated, so.... i guess away at what is there......
6. does the starter relay close cranking, if not, work back from that and dont blame the starter, motor. fuse C1 runs this relay. is C1 good. or FL1 or FL2 fuse blows,
7. ill now show the schematic (wild guessing engine and transmission..!!!)

this is the cranking path, (good starter and battery and cables)
the top of the drawing is the main power 12v feed from FL1 and FL2 fuses. (mains)
then you turn the switch to start
and 12v goes to fuse C1. got that?
then to the a/t box PRNDL switch. and in park or neutral
the 12vcc passes (10 to 12.6) cranking, or more if starter dead.
goes to the starer relay. the relay closes. does it?
if not it will never ever crank the starter.
if you have manual trans, the part in ? below is a clutch switch (pedaL )



NO ANTIHEIFT OPTION.
the bottom of the coil in starter relay is grounded. full time.
if you have antitheft option the Antitheift module makes up that ground. if happy.
so if the pin 5 on relay is 12vdc(dead relay) then the IMMO is unhappy. good luck fixing that.....

if IMMO not happy,
we then try both keys, lost your spare?
oops.....

one voltmeter and 15min work , or 10 less if IMMO lamp glows or flashes.
does it?
my post assumes, all things can fail, lacking, good input on dash lamps....

4.0L or 4.7L engine> the park switches are different.

you pulled a starter with out removing battery neg lug?
is that it?
your post makes it hard to see what the story is.
you replaced starter because car would not CRANK
or
you replaced starter, and shorted out the big cable and boom
and now all things are dead. what?
ill assume car would not crank one day
and you gue$$ a bunch of parts and guessed wrong,
guessing is very expensive.
------------------------------Testing wins--------------------------------------
so no crank 101, posted 100 times. ILL ASSUME it's a A/T tranny.
(im ignoring new parts, i never assume anything works i test it)

1. check all fuses in all boxes. using a voltmeter. 12vdc both sides key on and battery cables lugs area all clean and tight x4 ends.
2. you check battery volts its 12.6vdc rested, good.
3. you crank, and the solenoid just clicks. or only the starter relay only clicks, (more later on that)
4. you see that battery voltage never drops below 11v and crank time. (11v is typ, tad less if in Alaska, or bad battery or not charged fully)
5. You then jumper cable crank car, off a running donor car ,just like Mr. AAA tow does.... same to a fault. (google how) (hinting your battery is good, I have a battery load tester so can check)
6. if this cranks ok, the battery is bad. (happens or is discharged)
7. car still will not jumper crank.
8. we next hot wire the starter small wire to big lug. keys in pocket. Called hot wiring a starter solenoid.
9. engine does not crank, starter bad. or may be battery cables.
10. engine does crank nice , my keys are in pocket ,see?
11. ok starter is good, at test 10. so we now know its ok. easy huh>
12. now we know the key line is bad. 1 wire. end to end. easy.
13. you try to start in neutral, omg it starts. bad PRNDL switch.
14. or its bad starter relay.

now we show how it cranks. good starter and battery (& cables)
keyon,
put shifter in to park then neutral and crank.? fails both?

the starter relay must close cranked, if not, bad park switch or bad relay
in this moment (cranking) there must be 12vdc across the 2 relay coil pins.
pin 85 and 86 with volt meter, if 0v, the PRNDL switch is bad.
or on 4.7L the TRS switch.
if the relay closes, then jb fuse f31 is ok and pdc f8 must be good.
and you then turn key to crank. and relay pin 87 goes to 11v to 12v.
this then is a single wire that goes directly to the starter solenoid
tiny wire , it goes to 12v and starter cranks, 11v what you see here
unless in alaska , less. (10v ?)

see red arrow what is voltage there cranking?
we can go fast , if you just do that.

the transmission switch grounds the lower coil,here.
if not the starter will be dead forever.
both fuses must be good, or same.
12vdc arrives at top left fuse, and is hot only cranking.
if the right fuse, glows above the relay can not send power to the starter solenoid.

Before you do any thing check for loose or bad connections. Also check you ground connection to engine. Check Fuses, relay and for a Fusible Link open circuit. Now let me explain what a Fusible Link does. They are short lengths of small gauge wire installed between the Battery and the Ignition Switch, or the Battery and the Fuse Panel. They'll melt and open the circuit before damage occurs in the rest of the circuit. I hope this was helpful you.

Where is this relay? A wiring diagram doesn't show any relay at all in the starting circuit. Just this: a yellow start wire out of ignition switch goes to the neutral safety switch (if manual, a clutch start switch on the clutch pedal: if automatic a transmission range switch); From the safety switch a purple wire to the starter solenoid on the starter motor. Only other place to check is a "crank" fuse in the instrument panel fuse block- a 10 amp fuse in position 8 of the block.
Is the click you hear possibly from the starter solenoid? If it is, that means key switch part of circuit to the solenoid is good. Either starter motor is bad, or battery connections to starter and to battery ground may be bad, check them first.

assuming battery fully charged hook test lite between good groud and small starter terminal have somebody to crank if lits chek power and ground to starter and replace starter if no lit go to starter relay terminal 30 and 87 use a piece off wire and momentarily bridge them if starter bumps the engine check terminals 85 86 one is power when cranking the other is ground if starter bumps and test lit hooked to 85 86 lits replace relay if no lite keep tracing ckt to ignition switch

have you checked power at the starter? the large wire at the starter motor will have constant battery voltage, and the smaller wire will have power only with the key in the crank position. If both wires have power then you will need to replace the starter.

Hello! Do you hear a click when the key is turned?...If no click is heard either the ignition key, the Crank relay, the starter, or the battery are suspect...Having lights and radio does not mean the battery is capable of running a starter motor......Put a meter on the battery...should read 12.5 volts...Turn key...Does voltage drop to 8 or 9 volts? Bad battery...If all is well with battery and connections to it...Check the starter fuse # 33 in the under hood fuse/relay box...If the fuse is good that click you should hear is from the Crank Relay in that box...If all of the above is OK connect your meter to the Purple wire that is connected to the starter motor...When the key is turned 12 volts must be on that wire...If there is the starter motor is defective...So, #1...Do you hear a click when key is turned...That would point at a bad starter or weak battery...#2...If you do not hear a click bad fuse #33, bad Crank Relay, bad ignition switch...#3...If fuse is good Bad Crank Relay or Ignition switch; Crank Relay is a low cost item ($10)...Replace Relay...Stop there and send a comment as to results...Guru...saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Yes, here is a test you can do. With the car in park or neutral and the parking brake on, short the hot terminal (one with the big red wire attached) of the starter solenoid to the smaller (ignition switch) terminal. Be careful not to let your screwdriver touch anything else, especially do not touch the big ground terminal closest to the starter motor. If the motor does not crank, the starter/solenoid is not working. If the motor cranks the engine, your ignition switch, starter fuse, or relay is bad or the start wire is open. You can further troubleshoot this by interrogating the starter relay (see tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6022358-relay_check), but only some cars have a starter relay.

ignition relay if good ===ignition switch.