2001 ram 1500 rwd 5.2, front wheel hub torque procedure, there are lock nuts on axle, not nuts with cotter pins.

Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly - Front (MPA WH515006)

Wheel Hub Assembly Axle Nut Torque Spec: 180 ft-lbs / 244Nm, tighten further to align cotter pin with hole. .

2001 Dakota 2WD (same basic setup as the 1500) calls for 185 ft lbs/251 N m. Must use NEW self locking nut.

Jack up your Dodge Ram. Block the wheels to keep it from rolling as you work. Get started by removing the first tire and wheel assembly. Remove the hub extension and the brake caliper as well as the caliper adapter.

Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, washer and outer wheel bearing. Now, pull the old rotor off of the spindle. Clean the area with a damp cloth to remove any debris. Pack the wheel bearings with grease.

Install the new rotor and hub onto the spindle. Replace the outer wheel bearing, washer, and then the retaining nut. Torque the nut to 30 to 40 ft. lbs. while rotating the hub and rotor. Then tighten the nut and install the nut lock and a new cotter pin.

Clean the grease cap and then coat it with new wheel bearing grease and replace the cap. Put the caliper adapter back into place and then tighten the two mounting bolts with a torque wrench. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

Repeat this process for each additional rotor and then lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts and test drive your Dodge Ram to make sure that the installation was successful.

If I've helped, please vote!

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle
   
   
3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware
   
   
5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
   
8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
   
10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    
13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
14. Assemble the hub parts.
15. Install the caliper.
16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive

1. Remove the wheel cover.
2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle
   
   
3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship
   
   
5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat
    
    
16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle
   
   
3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware
   
   
5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
   
8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
   
10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    
13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50–80 ft. lbs. (68–108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
14. Assemble the hub parts.
15. Install the caliper.
16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive

1. Remove the wheel cover.
2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle
   
   
3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship
   
   
5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat
    
    
16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).

About an hour a side...This is the whole job and pictures....

The hub and wheel bearing unit is serviced as a complete assembly. Replacement of the front drive hub and bearing assembly can be done without having to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. However, if the hub/bearing assembly is frozen to the steering knuckle, removal of the steering knuckle is required.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
2. Remove the cotter pin from the end of the stub axle. Remove the nut lock and spring washer. With the brakes applied, loosen, but do NOT remove the axle nut and washer with the vehicle still on the ground or damage to the wheel bearing will result.
   
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel.
   
4. Remove the front brake caliper assembly from the steering knuckle assembly and support from the strut assembly using a strong piece of wire.
   
1. Remove the front brake rotor from the hub/bearing assembly.
   
2. Remove the retaining nut and washer from the halfshaft stub axle.
   
3. Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle.
   
4. Remove the 4 hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts from behind the steering knuckle.
   
5. Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
   
5. To install:
   
   1. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the steering knuckle and the hub and bearing assembly of any foreign material or nicks so the surfaces are clean and smooth.
      
   2. Install the new hub and bearing assembly and tighten the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern to 45 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Be sure the hub and bearing assembly is seated squarely against the front steering knuckle.
      
   3. Install the disc brake rotor.
      
   4. Install the brake caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle.
      
   5. Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten but do not torque.
      
   6. Install the ABS wheel speed sensor.
      
   7. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
      
   8. Lower the vehicle. Do NOT roll the vehicle until the axle nut has been properly torqued or damage to the front wheel bearings will result.
      
   9. With the vehicle's brakes applied, torque the axle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm). Install the spring washer, nut lock and a new cotter pin. Wrap the cotter pin prongs tightly around the axle nut lock.
      
   10. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Check the wheel alignment.
       

The hub/bearing assembly is attached to the steering knuckle with four bolts



Removing a hub/bearing assembly




If the hub/bearing is "frozen" to the steering knuckle, separate the ball joint and lightly tap on the hub/bearing from behind




The hub/bearing assembly should free itself from the steering knuckle

About $60 a hub.

If it's four wheel drive, remove the wheel center and the cotter pin and castelated cover on the axle nut. put the wheel back on the car. With the car on the ground, put your socket through the center of the wheel and using a long breaker bar (with the aid of a five foot pipe) break the axle nut free. Remove the wheel, caliper and rotor. Loosen the three twelve point bolts that retain the bearing hub assembly to the steering knuckle and turn them most of the way out. Put an old twelve point socket on them one at a time and hammer them to drive the hub out of the knuckle, using lots of solvent around the perimeter. If the axle tries to follow put the axle nut on it and give it a shot to separate it from the bearing. Once removed, clean all rust from the bore and reverse process using the new hub. Torque on axle nut is 175 foot lbs. if cotter pin does not align properly, turn tighter to align holes, never back off to do that.
good luck

Hub bolts are around 65-70 foot pounds, axle nut is about 120-130 ft pounds. These are not super-critical. Many at shops are installed using air guns and work just fine. Your main objective is to not have them come loose. If axle nut has a cotter pin, never back off on nut to install. always tighten to get holes for pin aligned.

Ram 1500 Pickup ...... 175 foot lbs. Then tighten until the cotter pin can be inserted. I had the same problem. I had to replace the inline check valves and I also had a bad hose. The check valves are not expensive.

HUB BEARING AND AXLE SHAFT REMOVAL

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the brake components from the axle, Refer toBrakes.
4. Remove the cotter pin and axle hub nut.
5. Remove the hub to knuckle bolts Hub and Knuckle Remove the hub bearing from the steering knuckle and axle shaft
6. Remove the brake dust shield.
7. Remove the axle shaft from the housing. Avoid damaging the axle shaft oil seal.

INSTALLATION

1. Clean the axle shaft and apply a thin film of Mopar Wheel Bearing Grease to the shaft splines, seal contact surface, hub bore. Install the axle shaft into the housing and differential side gears. Avoid damaging the axle shaft oil seals in the differential.
2. Install dust shield and hub bearing on knuckle.
3. Install the hub bearing to knuckle bolts and tighten to 170 N·m (125 ft. lbs.) torque.
4. Install the axle washer and nut, tighten nut to 237 N·m (175 ft. lbs.) torque. Align nut to next cotter pin hole and install new cotter pin.
5. Install the brake components, Refer toBrakes.
6. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
7. Remove support and lower the vehicle.