My 1996 Volvo 960 Wagon steering rack does not hold a turn smoothly. It feels like the power boost is cutting in and out, so that it is hard to maintain a smooth turning radius. Also, when I change from coast throttle to acceleration, the increased steering pump pressure ''pushes'' the steering wheel to the left suddenly. It feels something like a boost valve is either sticking, then releasing, or like clots of something or filings are going through the valve mechanism or a metering orifice. The fluid in the pump reservoir looks reasonably clean, with no filings in evidence.
Does anyone have any direct experience with this problem on other Volvos? Is flushing the system likely to help or cure it, or must the rack be dismantled?
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The oil could be from the power steering system. It could be the seals at the steering rack leaking or the high pressure hose at the connecting tips at both end have given way.
Most likely solution to this problem is a binding ball-joint or broken/severely worn tie-rod.If the other wheel is turning back to the original state then the pump is working correctly. #6 is the ball joint. The tie rod is a long piece attached just above the ball joint should be encased in a rubber boot. If the pump is working then I would suspect one of these parts is binding up. It cant be the power-steering rack because the other wheel is moving in back and forth just fine.
Check the catalytic converter. You can do this by banging on it and listen for a rattle. Sometimes, the inside gets melted into a little ball and blocks the exhaust from getting out on acceleration. This will cause a serious loss of power and feel like a trans malfunction.
The most obvious places are the Power steering rack itself - at each end, and the hoses that are attatched to it.
A leak at the pump is easily spotted.
Hoses are cheaper to replace than seals on the rack (which may require a new unit)
It is on the left rear area under the hood, down low, between the motor and the steering column. The transmission dipstick should be yellow plastic and has a 1/2 inch square hole in the top. Insert a long handled 1/2 inch breaker bar into the fitting in the top of the dipstick, use a two-foot long 1 inch wooden dowel to push back the spring clip holding the dipstick in place, and pull out the transmission dipstick with the breaker bar. You will need a length of 1/2 inch tubing afixed to a funnel to add tranasission fluid. I highly recommend changing the transmission oil often to protect the transmission. Be sure to pump all the old fluid out and not just drain the pan. See Brickboard.
If the steering wheel is turned without the engine running the power steering system gets air in the system causing jerky feel. It'll take a few days of driving it to work the air out of the lines again.
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