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Most likely the switch has died. They over heat and melt inside and at the plug. Also look at the ignition wires under the dash, Sometimes they can chaff against the column or frame.
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Try disconnecting the starter solenoid control lead and see if it still blows the fuse when no engine crank while switch in start position.
Try disconnecting the alternator and see if symptoms change.
You might also try using a 12V test lamp (or better, a headlamp) in place of the fuse. It may not crank but it allows you to low power circuits without blowing fuses. Observe lamp brightness as you go from run to start. Brightness is relative to current flow.
According to this it is a know issue and the gauge has a reset procedure.
How do you reset the fuel gauge on a Chevy Suburban?
Press and hold the "Trip/Odo" button. Turn the ignition switch on and hold the "Trip/Odo" switch for about two seconds. Then, release the "Trip/Odo" button, press it again (do this three or four times), and finally hold it for about four to five seconds until the leveling information shows on the Odometer.Jun. 19, 2021
It will help if you can identify the 40 Amp fuse that is being toasted when the key is turned.
I looked briefly at a fusebox diagram and found 3 circuits protected by a 40 Amp fuse. The Lamp circuit protects several circuits which have smaller rated fuses on each separate wire. The 40 Amp protection seems to be a safeguard if all the smaller circuits are active in total. Turning off the automatic headlights, should reduce power drain.
The next circuit is the Rear window defroster. Can easily pull 40 Amps, but once the 40 Amp fuse breaks, it should have no effect on the engine.
The last circuit, on the cars with Trailer Tow or Police package has a
40 Amp fuse on the Battery charge Relay. This is a remote possibility. But the engine should be able to run without an Alternator for several minutes using Battery power.
Have them check the fuel pressure. The Inertia switch could have tripped while the car was being repaired. It does not explain the wiring short, but can explain the no start condition.
Again, if the same 40 Amp circuit is overloading, identify the circuit with the fuse box diagram.
Hello! Identify which fuse is blowing...also, does it blow as soon as it is installed or does it blow when you turn the key? Lastly your not referring to a fusible link but a maxi-fuse...ie...40; Correct?
The 40 amp maxi fuse in the underhood junction block (According to the information I have, there is only one 40 amp fuse in there..) goes directly to the ignition switch. From there, it goes to the buss bar in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block where it feeds several smaller fuses. It also feeds the starter relay in the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center.
My biggest concern would be: What caused the fuse to blow in the first place?
If you get nothing else from my preaching, get this:
Fuses don't blow for no reason....ESPECIALLY not a 40-amp Maxi Fuse!
I can't count how many times I have heard people say: "It's JUST a blown fuse." WHAT???
I have been at this for 35 years and I can tell you that blown fuses are reason for major concern in my book. That 40-Amp Maxi Fuse just saved your truck from burning to the ground and you need to find out why!
The only way that fuse is going to blow is if there is a direct short to ground between the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center and the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (The only "component" between these two is the ignition switch.) or if the secondary side of the starter relay circuit is shorted to ground. The secondary side of the starter relay feeds the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. (at the starter)
I think the first place I would look for the problem would be the circuit between the starter relay and the starter. It is likely to be shorted against the exhaust or engine block. If this is the case, it most likely fried the starter relay in the process. (which is why the fuse no longer blows and the engine no longer starts)
Aftermarket remote starting units are also usually tied into this circuit. If your vehicle has one of these, it could very likely be the original source of your problem.
At any rate, there should be no rest, truck running or not, until the reason for the blown fuse is found. You will most likely get the truck running in the process of locating the reason for the blown fuse.
It could be either the ignition switch,clutch safety switch(if applicacle)or the starter solenoid,I'm including the circuit diagram for you,one of the 2 or three if it's manual trans has short,if the fuse is blowing as soon as you turn the key on(not engaging the starter)it will be in the switch itself or the clutch safety switch.If it happens when you go to engage the starter it's most likely the solenoid.
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