Why is the fuel pump fuse not getting any power feed?

The fuel pump has no fuse, it is power as described below.
The two main fuel pump power feeds involve the ASD (Auto Shut-down Relay) which disables the fuel pump, fuel injectors, ignition coil and Oxygen sensor after the loss of a signal from the distributer. The direct power circuit for the pump travels through the relay from a white fusible link which is located under the hood on the left fender panel, along with the ASD relay. The other power feed for the ASD comes from fuse #13 in the fuse block. There's a lot more involved in the operation and troubleshooting of these circuits. So please make sure your diagnosis is correct before replacing the fuel pump, and yes, you do have to remove the fuel tank

There isn't one on a Plymouth. In the Power Distribution Center is the fuel pump relay, and 2 pertinent fuses: Fuse #8 is a 20 amp fuse, hot at all times, and is the power feed for the pump relay. Fuse #10 is a 10 amp fuse, and is hot in run or start, and is the feed to the coil side of the relay. So hold your finger lightly on the relay while someone cycles the key from off to on. If the wiring at the relay is good, you should feel the relay click. If you don't feel anything from the relay, first check fuse #10. If the fuses are good, but nothing from the relay, you will have to look into the wiring for the relay. There is the power feed from fuse #8, the feed out to the fuel pump, the coil feed in from fuse #10, and the ground wire out from the coil side which goes into the PCM.

No FPR fitted.
Works via fuel pump module.
Module powered from fuse 81 on diagram of fascia fuse box. This fuse gets its feed from the ignition relay.

No, there would not be another fuse. How did you jump the pump, at the pump relay, or at the gas tank? I would want to know if the power feed for the pump is present at the relay. If you jumped it there, the feed is good. If you pull the relay out, one terminal for the relay should be hot at all times. Two terminals should be hot when cranking the engine over- the power feed for pump, and the signal from computer to the relay's coil side. If you have both signals, check for a pump ground problem.
If a security light is on, the pump or injector circuit may be immobilized.

Check the power feed for the pump at the fuel pump relay. Pull the relay out, and with a test light clipped to a ground, probe all the terminals that the relay plugs in to. One terminal should be hot at all times. If no terminal has power, either a fusible link off the battery has failed or a maxi fuse has blown-check a wiring diagram to see how the relay gets power to it.
If the relay has power to it, check the other relay terminals with the engine cranking. When cranking the engine, two terminals should have power-the fuel pump feed, and the signal from computer to activate the relay. If both signals are present, check the pump wire from relay to tank, check the fuel pump ground, and check if the coil side of relay has a good ground-signal from computer goes to coil input side, the coil output terminal should go to ground.
Good luck. Post back with what you find.

Do you have a test light? If not, go buy a cheap $5 test light-one with a lead to clip to a ground, and with a needle type probe.
Pull the fuel pump relay out of the terminals it is plugged into-you need to check if the power feed for the pump is still available at the relay. Clip the test light lead to a ground and touch the test probe to the positive battery post-to check that your ground is good- tester should light up. Now touch the probe to all of the terminals that the relay plugs into. One terminal should have power with key off. If no terminals have power, you have lost the power feed for the pump. Double check all your maxi fuses in the power distribution box. Either a maxi fuse or a fusible link will be the power feed for the fuel pump relay.
If the power feed is there at the relay, try a new relay. If still no pump, a shop will probably have to check your fuel pump circuit.
Did you check for power at the fuel tank while the key was held in crank? When the engine is cranking, the fuel pump wire should have power. When the key is turned to on, the fuel pump should have power for about 2 seconds, to pressurize the fuel system. Then when key is turned to crank or start, the fuel pump should stay on.

The fuel pump fuse? That is hot at all times. Look for a main fuse that the big ones some even have clear cap . You basically need to find the main power that feeds the fuse

computer doesnt control pump relay on such a old vehicle ,you have a fuse out or old dirty connections on the base of the relay so if all else fails then run a new feed wire to relay depending on which power point on relay has no power ,if its the feed from ignition to operate relay make a new feed from ignition switch and if no power to pump side of relay then run a new feed to this via a fuse .simple to sort out on such an old vehicle

Much more likely is administrative causes. The purpose is to NOT pump fuel after an accident, so no fuel pump on at all times. Typically requires oil pressure or computer control to feed power to the pump. You really need to get a shop manual to diagnose.

Theres a few more checks But i'm sure you checked the fuel pump fuse already ..Use a test light and check to see if the fuel pump relay is getting power from the supply and from the Ignition feed. should be a schematic on the underside of the relay..if no power from the feeds check for a blown or rotted fuseable link or a maxi fuse..good luck